My galant will not idle. In order to start the vehicle I must hold the gas, if i release the gas the motor will stall. I can drive it as long as i hold the RPM's above 1000. There is no check engine light and some guys at the parts store said the EGR valve may need cleaned or replaced. the only problem is I cannot figure out how to get it off. It is on the backside of the motor with very little room to move.How do I get this thing off of here? Or is it possible that I may have other problems?
Also there is a slight ticking sound around the top of the motor on the backside. I am unable to accuratley tell where it is coming from, but it is making this "tick, tick tick, tick" while the motor is off and the key is turned over. Almost sounds like its coming from the around what I think is the TPS sensor, but I am not sure.
I know what is probably going on and it is not the Egr valve. I believe you are having a fuel issue and the culprit is your idle mixture/idel speed. The Egr valve may need to be cleaned but it seems as if there is an issue with other items as well because of the motors inability to keep running at lower RPMs. I strongly suggest you get a Chiltons repair manual for your vehicle. They are found at all parts houses and are specific for your vehicle make model year etc. This manual has photos tips tricks and guides for troubleshooting diagnosing and repairing from A - Z and they are only around 15 bucks. Hope this helps. Oh by the way that ticking may be your fuel pump and probably is because on that model it is electrical not mechanical. Good Luck.
Hope this helps.I can email a larger pic if needed.
Its a air filter cabin .....
Good luck..
It may be a sensor for air intake temperature. Stop by your dealer and ask the service writer, or stop by Auto Zone and ask them. You may need a filter in there to prevent contamination.
Ticking is most likely the fuel pump see if when in acc it only clicks for like 20 seconds. You Gently Pull The Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) Valve From The Motor And Remove The Other 2 hoses from it.
then clean the filters inside it.
You Talking About The Air Filter Housing If So Its The Maf Sensor.
Or Its The iat Sensor
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Michael Scott
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Sounds like the IAC motor is stuck.
Answering to your last comment about the idle air control valve location: the Idle Air Control valve located on the upper left side of your firewall
Hi! First of all, I wouldn't worry too much about cleaning the egr valve, but it's not unusual for them to 'leak' which can cause your problem. Your egr is vacuum operated and if it leaks (or it's gasket) the engine will get too much air compared to the fuel.
Let's start from the beginning first though: How long since you've changed the fuel filter, plugs, cap/rotor, wires, etc.? Your problem is most likely a combination of things. Most all of these you can do yourself for less than 1/4th of what a garage would charge if you have any mechanical ability at all (that's not an insult, many people just don't).
Your engine also require periodic valve adjustment, which is much easier than it sounds.
First, I'd check for a vacuum leak. Have someone hold the idle very steady while you take a can of carburetor cleaner (best if you use the little straw that comes with it) and lightly spray around the top of the engine. Especially hit around any mating surfaces and each little sensor, egr, tps, etc. If the engine's rpm picks up noticeably you have found a leak, if it stalls you've found a large leak. Don't forget to spray all the small hoses (they often dry-rot and crack allowing a vacuum leak) and the power brake booster (large round disk behind the brake master cylinderon the firewall).
I'd next suggest plugs, wires, (if these haven't been done for more than 15,000 miles) and definately a fuel filter (which should be replaced every 10,000 miles on any fuel injected car). If you know how, also check your timing with a timing light, as all these things can affect it. If you've done these things and still have a problem, let me know and we can go from there, but I'd do these first. According to my local (south Florida) parts store a fuel filter is about $30, spark plugs (4) about $8.00, and about $50 for plug wires (your's have built-in coils of a sort). A garage would charge you about double (100% mark-up on parts is normal) and about another $150.00 for labor. You should be able to do this yourself in about 2-4 hours easily. good luck.
Hi! First of all, I wouldn't worry too much about cleaning the egr valve, but it's not unusual for them to 'leak' which can cause your problem. Your egr is vacuum operated and if it leaks (or it's gasket) the engine will get too much air compared to the fuel.
Let's start from the beginning first though: How long since you've changed the fuel filter, plugs, cap/rotor, wires, etc.? Your problem is most likely a combination of things. Most all of these you can do yourself for less than 1/4th of what a garage would charge if you have any mechanical ability at all (that's not an insult, many people just don't).
Your engine also require periodic valve adjustment, which is much easier than it sounds.
First, I'd check for a vacuum leak. Have someone hold the idle very steady while you take a can of carburetor cleaner (best if you use the little straw that comes with it) and lightly spray around the top of the engine. Especially hit around any mating surfaces and each little sensor, egr, tps, etc. If the engine's rpm picks up noticeably you have found a leak, if it stalls you've found a large leak. Don't forget to spray all the small hoses (they often dry-rot and crack allowing a vacuum leak) and the power brake booster (large round disk behind the brake master cylinderon the firewall).
I'd next suggest plugs, wires, (if these haven't been done for more than 15,000 miles) and definately a fuel filter (which should be replaced every 10,000 miles on any fuel injected car). If you know how, also check your timing with a timing light, as all these things can affect it. If you've done these things and still have a problem, let me know and we can go from there, but I'd do these first. According to my local (south Florida) parts store a fuel filter is about $30, spark plugs (4) about $8.00, and about $50 for plug wires (your's have built-in coils of a sort). A garage would charge you about double (100% mark-up on parts is normal) and about another $150.00 for labor. You should be able to do this yourself in about 2-4 hours easily. good luck.
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It does sound like the idle control... a couple things... check for air leaks in the duct work that goes from your air filter to the throttle body (connection that goes to the motor)
that ticking noise is likely your injectors
Robert
There should be 3 bolts that have to be removed with a box end wrench. If the check engine light isn't on that is a VERY good sign. Most of the major problems or any electrical problems would set off this light. So very well could be the EGR or vacuum line related.
A bad PCV valve will also cause the problems 
.The two bottom holes have the two bolts holding it on.
Here is a link for you to copy and paste in your browser. It is your entire repiar manual. It is free and has illustrated pics and step by step directions.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090...
If you can tell me what motor size (how many litres) i will send you a diagram
or if you want to copy and paste this link in your browser you can see the diagram and other info for your car. Either way.
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairG...
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Ticking sound might be due to faulty solenoid switch
Ideling problem due to fuel supply (clogged fuel filter, injector), idle control module or electronic sprk control module.
You can get the component location and some schematic at autozone.com. Just add your vehicle and go to repair guide.
Good Luck
Welcome to Fixya! Not your Battery, That Ticking is your Fuel Rail and Injectors. You need to get that car to a Mechanic and have him run a Complete Diagnostics on it to locate the EXACT Problem.
Yes it can.
Even though the Light is not on the Computer is Always Sending Codes Back and Forth with the Components within the Car.
Your Problem is the Fuel Pump and Sending Unit, Could also need a New Fuel Filter.
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The clicking noise is alternator which runs all electronics on the car so your battery might just need replacing if it wont hold a charge just try to replace the battery before spending alot of money if it is not the fix then you at least have a spare battery that didnt cost much hope this solves it for you
HAVE U TESTED THE IDLE SPEED CONTROL MOTOR? HAVE U TRIED CLEANING IT? TRY THIS PROCEDURE:
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls and low idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
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.The two bottom holes have the two bolts holding it on.
I am not savvy with vehicles. Where is the intake manifold. Also, how do I get the hoses off. There is hardly any room between the firewall and the EGR. Is there a diagram out there I could see?
the clicking noise is not coming from the alternator. The alternator is less than a year old and so is the the battery. Neither of these should have anything to do with my car not holding an idle.
can diagnostics be ran if the check engine light is not on
just talked to autozone and they mentioned that their scan would not read without the check light on.
If the problem was the fuel pump, wouldn't I not be able to recieve any fuel.
The car drives fine. There are no misses or anything out of the ordinary unless it drops below 1000rpm or so.
could it be the idle air control valve?
where is the Idle Air Control valve located?
Fixed it! The air intake piece that is on the black box on passenger side, next to the coolant tank, was stopped up with the old filter. Just happened to check and see if it would pop out and it did and when I blew it out the car started right up!
can anyone tell me what that box is called. It has an air line that goes around the motor and connects to part of the throttle body (i think). The box is black and about the size of your fist, sits on the passenger side of the vehicle and mounted to the upper inside of the fender area. It also has an electrical plug if thats helpful.
It may still have some clogs inside of it or may cause more problems in the future and would just like to know for future reference. Thanks
dont think it was the IAC
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page out of date
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can anyone tell me what that box is called. It has an air line that goes around the motor and connects to part of the throttle body (i think). The box is black and about the size of your fist, sits on the passenger side of the vehicle and mounted to the upper inside of the fender area. It also has an electrical plug if thats helpful.
It may still have some clogs inside of it or may cause more problems in the future and would just like to know for future reference. Thanks
i cut a small piece of filter and placed it in there
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thanks for all the help. If I ever need anything else I will definately come back to fixya.
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