Follow up on previous question,timing belt Mitsubishi Nimbus 1994

Hi, the procedure is pasted below. There is a good rundown with pics at the following post:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=264429
Please let me know if you have questions.


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
5S-FE Engines

1. Remove the timing belt covers as previously detailed.
2. Raise the engine just enough to remove the weight from the engine mount on the right side.
3. Remove the thru-bolt, two nuts, and right hand mounting insulator.
4. Remove the retaining bolts and remove the right hand mounting bracket (from the side the alternator was removed from).
5. Remove the timing belt and timing belt guide. If the timing belt is to be reused, draw a directional arrow on the timing belt in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise) and place matchmarks on the timing belt and crankshaft gear.
6. Remove the bolt retaining the No. 1 idler pulley and tension spring.
7. Remove the No. 2 idler pulley.
8. Remove the crankshaft timing gear , if it can not be removed by hand, use two flat bladed tools to pry it off. Make sure to position shop rags to prevent damages to the components.
9. Remove the nut retaining the oil pump pulley.

To install:

1. Align the cutouts of the oil pump pulley and shaft, and slide the pulley on. Retain the pulley while tightening the nut to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
2. Align the crankshaft timing pulley set key with the key groove of the crankshaft pulley, then slide the pulley on.
3. Install the No. 2 idler pulley with the bolt and tighten to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Be sure the pulley moves smoothly.

NOTE Remove any oil or water on the idler pulley and keep it clean.

1. Temporarily install the No. 1 idler pulley with the retaining bolt. Hint: use a 1.65 inch (42mm) bolt in length. Do not tighten the bolt yet. Install the tension spring. Pry the pulley toward the left as far as it will go, then tighten the bolt.
2. Turn the crankshaft until the key groove in the crankshaft timing pulley is facing upward. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft timing, oil pump, No. 2 idler and water pump pulleys.

NOTE If the old timing belt is being reinstalled, make sure the directional arrow is facing in the original direction and that the belt and crankshaft gear matchmarks are properly aligned.

1. Install the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover and new gasket with the four bolts.
2. Align the crankshaft pulley set key with the pulley key groove. Install the pulley. Tighten the pulley bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
3. Align the camshaft knock pin with the matchmarks on the oil seal retainer.
4. Align the knock pin with the groove of the pulley, and slide the pulley onto the camshaft with the plate washer and set bolt.
5. Tighten the set bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
6. Turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
7. Install the timing belt and check the valve timing as follows:
1. Align the matchmarks that you made previously, and install the timing belt onto the camshaft pulley.
2. Loosen the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt 1 / 2 turn.
3. Turn the crankshaft pulley two complete revolutions TDC to TDC. ALWAYS turn the crankshaft CLOCKWISE. Check that the pulleys are still in alignment with the timing marks.
4. Tighten the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
5. Make sure there is belt tension between the crankshaft and camshaft timing pulleys.


8. Install the upper (No. 2) timing cover with a new gasket(s).
9. Align the two clamps for the engine wiring harness with the cover mounting bolts.
10. Install the spark plugs.
11. Install the right mounting insulator with bracket. Tighten the bracket bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm), insulator nuts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm) and thru-bolt to 52 ft. lbs. (71 Nm).
12. Install the No. 2 engine mount bracket and tighten to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm); install the control rod and tighten the bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm).
13. Lower the engine.
14. Install the alternator and alternator bracket.
15. Install the drive belt and adjust the tension.
16. Install the cruise control actuator with bracket.
17. Install the fender apron seal and right engine under cover.
18. Install the right front wheel.

All Mitsubishi cars pretty much hide the water pump under the timing belt. You should buy all new belts for the car and if you have 150,000+ miles consider replacing the water pump at the same time.
You will have to take off the power steering belt . First , take off the negative battery cable so you do not blow an expensive fuse on the positive battery cable clamp. Facing the back of the car , reach UNDER the alternator and loosen the bolt on the bottom right side, now loosen the bolt on the adjuster block on top, you can now turn the adjuster bolt and move the alternator to change the belt.
To take off the steering pump belt on the front of the motor, you need to loosen the nut on the back side of the pulley it holds the adjuster pulley in place . With the adjuster pulley loose , you can use the adjuster bolt to move the pulley to adjust/take off the steering pump belt.
Now take off the upper belt cover, support the motor, take off the motor mount, jack up the right front corner of the car, take off the front right tire, take off the engine plastic under cover.
Line up the TDC timing mark on the cover to the mark on the pulley, take off the lower pulleys (use an air gun and impact socket), take off the lower engine cover, observe the timing marks/arrows and highlight with paint (crank marks and cam marks should all line up if not , rotate the crankshaft one full turn.), loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley ,take off the timing belt, counter balancer belt if there is one. Now you can unbolt the water pump, scrape the gasket, and replace it.
The good news is, if you have tools,a compressor, an air gun(for lower pulley bolt), patience , and four to eight hours to kill, you can actually save money and do it your self.

Timing Belt & Sprockets Removal & Installation 3.2L Engine To Remove:
TDC compression stroke timing marks

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Timing belt cover
   • Crankshaft damper
3. Rotate the crankshaft in the engine rotation direction, clockwise using the J 42098 or other suitable tool until the # 1 cylinder is at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke. The reference marks on the camshaft gears should be aligned with the corresponding notches on the rear timing belt cover, as well as the mark on the crankshaft sprocket and oil pump housing. Timing marks 60 degrees from TDC
   
   
4. Rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise using the J 42098 or other suitable tool until 60 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). The 60 degrees BTDC point can be identified by the index mark on the oil pump cover. Using the J 42069-10 or other suitable tool
   
   
5. Install the J 42069-10 or other suitable tool to the crankshaft sprocket with the knurled bolt.
6. Rotate the crankshaft in the engine rotational direction, clockwise using the J 42098 until the lever of the J 42069-10 or other suitable tool firmly contacts the water pump pulley flange. The # 1 cylinder is at TDC at this point.
7. Secure the moveable lever of the tool to the water pump pulley flange. Tools in cam gears
   
   
8. Install the J 42069-1 and the J 42069-2 or other suitable tools to the camshaft gears. If the J 42069-1 or the J 42069-2 or other suitable tools do not fit into the teeth of the camshaft gears, it may be necessary to loosen the upper idler pulley and turn the eccentric or camshaft gears until the tool can be inserted.
9. Loosen the timing belt tensioner nut.
10. Loosen the upper idler pulley bolt.
11. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Lower idler pulley bolt
    • Lower idler pulley and spacer
    • J 42069-10 or other suitable tool from the crankshaft sprocket WARNING
      After timing belt is removed, never turn camshaft and crankshaft independently. Do not remove J 42069-1 and the J 42069-2 or other suitable tools while the belt is removed.
      
    • Timing belt

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the engine coolant.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Timing belt Alternator brace from the water pump Timing belt rear cover Water pump mounting bolts Water pump, gasket and O-ring
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   New O-ring on the water inlet pipe. Coat the O-ring with water or coolant. Do not allow oil or other grease to contact the O-ring. Water pump to the engine block, with new gasket. Torque the mounting bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm) Alternator brace on the water pump. Torque the brace pivot bolt to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). Timing belt rear cover Timing belt Remaining components
   
2. Refill the engine with coolant.
3. Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks.

Hope this gets you back on the road.

All Mitsubishi cars pretty much hide the water pump under the timing belt. You should buy all new belts for the car. You will have to take off the power steering belt, the alternator belt, the upper belt cover, support the motor, take off the motor mount, line up the tdc timing mark, take off the lower pulleys, take off the lower cover, take off the timing belt, counter balancer belt if there is one, water pump belt, and now you can unbolt the water pump, scrape the gasket, and replace it. Now the good news, if you have tools,a compressor, an air gun(for lower pulley bolt), patience , and four to eight hours to kill, you can actually save money and do it your self.

Timing Belt and Sprockets REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2S-ELC, 3S-FE and 5S-FE Engines

1. Remove the timing belt covers as previously detailed.
2. Raise the engine just enough to remove the weight from the engine mount on the right side.
3. Remove the thru-bolt, two nuts, and right hand mounting insulator.
4. Remove the retaining bolts and remove the right hand mounting bracket (from the side the alternator was removed from).
5. Remove the timing belt and timing belt guide. If the timing belt is to be reused, draw a directional arrow on the timing belt in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise) and place matchmarks on the timing belt and crankshaft gear.
6. Remove the bolt retaining the No. 1 idler pulley and tension spring.
7. Remove the No. 2 idler pulley.
8. Remove the crankshaft timing gear , if it can not be removed by hand, use two flat bladed tools to pry it off. Make sure to position shop rags to prevent damages to the components.
9. Remove the nut retaining the oil pump pulley. To install:
   
10. Align the cutouts of the oil pump pulley and shaft, and slide the pulley on. Retain the pulley while tightening the nut to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
11. Align the crankshaft timing pulley set key with the key groove of the crankshaft pulley, then slide the pulley on.
12. Install the No. 2 idler pulley with the bolt and tighten to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Be sure the pulley moves smoothly. NOTE: Remove any oil or water on the idler pulley and keep it clean.
    
13. Temporarily install the No. 1 idler pulley with the retaining bolt. Hint: use a 1.65 inch (42mm) bolt in length. Do not tighten the bolt yet. Install the tension spring. Pry the pulley toward the left as far as it will go, then tighten the bolt.
14. Turn the crankshaft until the key groove in the crankshaft timing pulley is facing upward. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft timing, oil pump, No. 2 idler and water pump pulleys. NOTE: If the old timing belt is being reinstalled, make sure the directional arrow is facing in the original direction and that the belt and crankshaft gear matchmarks are properly aligned.
    
15. Install the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover and new gasket with the four bolts.
16. Align the crankshaft pulley set key with the pulley key groove. Install the pulley. Tighten the pulley bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
17. On 2S-ELC engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
18. Align the camshaft knock pin with the matchmarks on the oil seal retainer.
19. On 2S-ELC/USA engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley E mark side. On 2S-ELC/Canadian engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley. On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, align the knock pin with the groove of the pulley, and slide the pulley onto the camshaft with the plate washer and set bolt. NOTE: On 2S-ELC engines, make sure that the Matchmark on the oil seal retainer and center hole of the small hole on the camshaft timing pulley are aligned.
    
20. Using the removal tool to hold the pulley stationary, install and tighten the pulley set bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) on the 2S-ELC and the 3S-FE. On the 5S-FE, tighten the set bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
21. On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
22. Install the timing belt and check the valve timing as follows:
    1. Align the matchmarks that you made previously, and install the timing belt onto the camshaft pulley.
    2. Loosen the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt 1⁄2 turn.
    3. Turn the crankshaft pulley two complete revolutions TDC to TDC. ALWAYS turn the crankshaft CLOCKWISE. Check that the pulleys are still in alignment with the timing marks.
    4. Tighten the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
    5. Make sure there is belt tension between the crankshaft and camshaft timing pulleys.
23. Install the upper (No. 2) timing cover with a new gasket(s). On the 5S-FE, align the two clamps for the engine wiring harness with the cover mounting bolts.
24. Install the spark plugs.
25. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten each component to specifications.

Hi there,

Well if you are not mechanically educated, you should not try this alone. the water pump alone is not the problem, it is the timing belt. mess the timing up, and the engine will not start or if it does start, it will run rough. the water pump runs behind the timing belt, so it must be removed (Possibly replaced) anyway you can please follow the below steps -
1. Disconnect the negative cable on the car battery before you begin.
2. Place a drain pan underneath the radiator. When the engine is cool, drain the cooling system from the radiator into the pan.
3. Remove the right-hand engine under cover with the drive belt.
4. Loosen and remove the bolts to the water pump and take the water pump out of the engine.
5. Install the new water pump. Tighten the short bolts to 80-inch lbs. (9 Nm) and tighten the long bolts to 96 inch pounds (11 Nm).
(1ZZ-FE Corolla Engine)
6. Reinstall the drive belt and the right engine under cover.
7. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
8. Refill the cooling system with coolant to the proper levels. Start the engine and check for leaks when the engine reaches normal operating temperatures.
Please post comments if you need more help or information........

Good Luck!!

Thanks

Remove the serpentine belt, remove the lower crankshaft pulley, place a jack under the oil pan and jack up the engine slightly, remove the engine mount (right top). Remove the timing belt cover, loosen the timing belt tensioner and pull tensioner pulley back toward the rear of vehicle. I like to then tighten the tensioner bolt to hold it in this position, remove and replace belt. If you need to put the engine in time then look at the camshaft there is a small arrow in the center it lines up with a dot on the end of the cylinder head. The lower timing mark is a small metal tip that sticks out from the lower gear and it lines up with a notch cut into the front cover just behind the lower gear. Once aligned properly put the belt on the lower gear and without turning the lower gear or camshaft gear pull the belt tight up to the cam shaft the cogs in the belt will line up with the grooves, then place the belt around the water pump drive gear and under the tensioner, then push the belt over all gears by hand without turning the engine. Loosen the tensioner bolt and apply a little pressure toward the front of the vehicle and tighten the bolt. Replace everything else previously removed. Engine should start and run normally. Hope this helps, let me know.

To access and remove the waterpump, the powersteer bracket has to be removed completely. To do this, the rear camshaft drive pulley must be removed (need a tool to hold pulley, bolt tight) and then the thin sheetmetal shield behind the pulley. This allows access to the lower powersteer bracket bolts.
Removal of the engine mount is also required to perform timing belt replacement. It also helps to increase your access room too.
I would recommend you replace the waterpump why you are there as they have a tendancy to fail at around 140000 km's.

Make sure you mark cam and crankshaft pulleys with at least two marks on each one.
Also put marks on engine to keep them all lined up.
I use either tippex correction fluid or white paint.