Question about 1996 Toyota Camry

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96 Camry 2.2 L has no spark while cranking but timing light indicates spark when key is released

I used a timing light on the coil wire to distributor to see if there is spark. There is no or occasional spark while cranking but there is spark upon releasing the key from the start position and the engine fires if only for one or 2 cylinders. It is below freezing right now so it seems it's hard for the engine to catch. I was trying to start it 2 days ago when cold, below freezing, but no dice but it did start when the weather was in the 30's F a day later in the sun. I originally thought this to be a fuel problem but timing light reveals no spark. Just put a new battery in it but the old one was dead. Thanks for any help.

Posted by Geo K on


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Vernon Taylor

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It is better to use a spark gap to observe the size and quality of the spark when testing. A suitable gap can be manufactured from an old spark plug modified by carefully cutting away much of the tread with a hacksaw and taping it to a bulldog or crocodile clip so it produces a gap of about 10/13mm.

It certain isn't unusual for an ignition system to produce a spark when the key is released.

It is possible for the inside of a distributor cap to develop a conductive coating so spark testing should be done initially from the coil lead disconnected from the dist cap.

I don't know what ignition system your Camry is fitted with but broadly there will be a trigger, amplifier, coil and spark distribution. Older versions used discrete components but as time marched on more was integrated into the management system though regardless of system it cannot work efficiently without a good supply of current and effective grounds so the first thing to do is identify the system type and components and check these using a voltmeter while the engine is cranking.

Without more details it is difficult to tell you more that would be useful to you - clearly if the amplifier is integrated the approach must be somewhat different than if it is discrete and similarly whether the distributor contains the trigger and if it does whether it is a hall-effect type, optical or inductive...

Posted on Apr 07, 2017


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cy schousboe

  • 2002 Answers

SOURCE: 85 ranger, engine cranks but won't start.

Sounds more like an electrical problem.First I'd check the battery voltage, should be at least 13. It shouldn't drop much below 11 when you crank the engine and it should bounce back when you stop. Make sure your connections are good especially to the coil,wires aren't frayed or loose on connectors. There should be a ground from the body to the motor. Is it still thereand making good contact? If I'm not mistaken the coil should ground to the motor, make sure it has good contact as well. Also double check your connections at the starter to make sure they are clean and tight. Loose connections can draw extra power and could draw enough extra power to kill the coil. Hope this helps.

Posted on Jul 04, 2009


SOURCE: Have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma with a 3.4. Vehiclw was

Most likely I a would suspect the fuel rail had moisture in it. If you checked emissions it would most likely show no HC and alot of 02 and no CO. If it does show alot of HC then I would suspect sticking valves intermittantly . The pinging really points to no fuel issue tho. If you pull the injector connector off and no change then I would remove the fuel rail and inspect. Also make sure the wires are in the correct locations. It easy to get them wrong.

Posted on Sep 03, 2009



  • 4803 Answers

SOURCE: The Jeep has set for about 6 months. A week ago:

Check to see if you have spark at the coil. If you have spark at the coil and no spark at the plug, you probably have a bad distributor cap and/or rotor.

If there is no spark at the coil, you need to find out if there is voltage present at the B+ terminal of the coil.
No B+ could be anything from a bad ASD relay to a broken wire or burned fusible link.

If B+ voltage is present at the coil, the "NO-SPARK" condition could be caused by anything from a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) to a bad Ignition Control Module (ICM) To a bad Electronic Control Unit ((ECU) - AKA Engine Control Module)

Posted on Nov 02, 2009


  • 603 Answers

SOURCE: Engine will not start. Coil is firing when

If coil is good and plugs are not - there's your problem. You can't have output of coil be good and plugs not work right. Something inbetween is wrong.

Posted on Dec 17, 2009


  • 432 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1991 Olds cutlass ciera 3.3 v6, starts up

Good Evening, you might want to check those injectors, I can not remember for certain but that setup was sequential and when one or two have a problem it would take out the rest. Ohm out the injectors and see what you have there.

Posted on Nov 03, 2010

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2 Answers

New engine in 96 Geo Prizm now not firing

1.6L or 1.8liter engine? Toy 4A or 7A engine?
all 4 cylinder dead. and coil? no spark?
did you hook up all sensors. as the 96 had,(usa car has more)
usa car is OBD2 and runs crank and cam sensors to do misfire detection.(fed law)
any scan tool will tell you why,!
here posted 100 times in ORDER
  1. fuses all good, 12vdc both sides, key on, or its bad.
  2. keyon
  3. CEL lamp in dash turns on, if not ,see #1
  4. plug in scan tool, get comms.? good, pcm talks !
  5. crank for 5 seconds. (least) release key, not off.
  6. SEE Those DTC errors, for spark , cmp,ckp, (P03xx errors)
  7. bingo.? RPM dead cranking? scan tools can see RPM.
  8. sure! my bet by now you found it.

Mar 04, 2015 | 1996 Geo Prizm

2 Answers

What could cause a1991 suzuki samurai to have no fire from a new coil?

no spark from coil directly?
is the cam turning, is the dizzy rotor spinning. ????

check all fuses first. Ig-coil, FI and dome.
then using diagnostic jumper wire or fuse, (as approp)
crank engine look for code 41 o 42.!!!

USA cars , answers only
our cars are all EFI that year.
no engine swaps to Suzuki G16A/B sidekick or tracker engines.!
1: engine cranks
2: no spark
3: The ECu makes spark
the CMP sensor in the DIzzy , (never fails if rotor turns, does rotor turn, if not cam belt igored and now snapped.)
the cam turns. the CMP fires. the ECU takes this CMP signal
and fires the ignitor next to coil and the coil charges, and release and BAM spark.

that is it.
the ECU will tell you when the CMP dies or the Ignitor fails
why not ask it.
1: key on
2: diagnostic jumper in place (flashes 12s for ok)
3: crank engine,for 5sec, not 1 ,not 2.
3: release key not off.
4: see code 41, or 42, BINGO [email protected]!!!!

Aug 15, 2014 | 1991 Suzuki Samurai

1 Answer

My Suzuki esteem wont get fire to the plugs, we've replaced the coils and fuel pump and got a new batterie. still wont crank up

wow no year stated or engine option,,,,, a hard row to hoe.......
the pump dont create spark but all cars cut fuel if there is no spark.
for , fire safety. fix spark first. ignore all other symptoms.
Cranks but does not spark is the #1 symptom.
2nd is no spark, i guess that means at all spark plugs and not one?
what engine do you have,, Esteems dont come one just 1 engine.
so discover that engine, code, like G16 or J18?
The G16 has distributor, the J18 has COP coils x4
apples and oranges different.

So i will answer non specifically.
When you crank, does the tachometer needle move about 300 rpm?
with the scan tool do you see DTC errors as you crank for 5 seconds> release key and look? with key still on>?
P0340s 355s? etc>?
when cranking does the scan tool show RPM? moving up scale?
if car is 96 or newer year, the car has 2 devices that makes spark
one is CMP and the other is CKP. on the G16 engines, it
only needs CMP to make spark ( then ignitor, then coil, the distributor.) did you change you G16 timing belt at 60k miles>?
if not it may not generate spark due to the dizzy timing is way off now.
the J18 engine has no Dizzy (distributor) it has COP.
aka: DIS Distributorless ignition System
The car has CMP on the back side of the left cam.
It can go dead, but the ECU will tell you this fact of you use
as scan tool in the proper way,
the proper way is to crank for 5 seconds, and release key
and look for stored codes. do not turn key off,
until you scan for DTCs live, in memory or pending.
The J18 has 4 COPs check each for spark, not just one.
you can swap the bad ones around , and see if its bad.
post engine size and year, and you'd be amazed at better posts.

Sep 14, 2013 | Suzuki Esteem Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

96 bronco 5.8 cranks but no fire

Did you check primary voltage to ignition coil? red wire with lite green tracer, use a test lite to check voltage, goes hot with key on, circuit is fuse protected.

Dec 25, 2017 | Ford Bronco Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

My 1995 toyota camry starts right up but after driving for ten to fifteen min. it shuts off. If i leave it for a while, perhaps a couple of hours it starts right up again.

somethings gettn hot in the electrical--circuits wear in old cars--but dont go replacn parts til u kno the answer--scan car plus do a data stream to find it

Mar 10, 2012 | 1995 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

I have a 1998 1500 chevrlet pickup that cranks and will not start but when releasing the key from the crank mode sounds like the engine fires off for a moment

Sounds like it could be the ignition module. How you check for this problem depends on what type of system that you have. Does the engine have a distributor? If it does, then disconnect the coil wire if it has one and install a spark tester which is available at most part stores. If it does not have a coil wire then find the tach terminal located on the distributor and connect a test light between that terminal and ground. The spark tester should spark while cranking and the test light should blink while cranking. If they don't, then replace the ignition module. The spark tester can also be used on one of the spark plug wires for distributorless ignition systems.

May 22, 2011 | Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a Ford F-150 1990 Model. It doesn't seem to be getting fire to the sparkplugs. I just replaced the spark plug wires and spark plugs. What could be the problem? It is a V8.

Sounds like its a distributor. To test if its sparking at all take the plug wire and hold a screw driver and see if it arcs to the screw driver when you crank it. but heres the best way to diagnose it on your vehicle follow the following steps and let me know from there what happens.

1 Remove the spark plug wires one at a time and insert a small screw driver into the wire.(SEE WARNINGS) Be careful as you don’t want to get shocked with 60,000volts. Hold the wire so that the screw driver is 1/8” away from the engine. Have someone crank the engine and watch for a good white spark. If you have a good spark on all wires look for a problem with timing or something else. 2 Remove the distributor cap. Have someone crank the engine over with the distributor cap removed and observe if it is turning? That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one. If the distributor is not turning then likely you have a broken timing belt or chain. 3 Turn the ignition key on but don't crank the engine. Locate the positive or power wire attached to the engine coil. Using a test light check for power. If this has power, then the wiring from the ignition switch is OK. 4 Locate the negative or ground wire attached to the engine coil. Using a test light check for power. This sounds strange however, one end on a good battery ground and the other on the negative wire attached to the engine coil. The test light will light up indicating power on the negative side of the coil with the key on and engine off. 5 Have someone crank the engine while watching the test light. If you observe the test light flickering when cranking the engine and you have no spark, either the coil wire is faulty of the coil is dead. Test these using an Ohm meter.# If no flickering or pulsating was observed then check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens. This is the negative wire back to it's source, the ignition module. 6 Check the pulse generator in the distributor if it has a distributor cap. Some newer cars don’t have one,and if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. 7 With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. If this is observed then the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If no A/C signal is observed then you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor. 8 Know that if this part of the primary ignition tests OK then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens. If wiring tests are OK. Suspect the ECM or computer as a last resort. edit
Be careful as you don’t want to get shocked with 60,000volts. be careful when checking the leads for sparks with a screwdriver doing it this way can cause very expensive damage on newer engins best use a spare spark plug or a proper tester for this job
Thanks, Midwest-tek

Aug 30, 2010 | 1990 Ford F150

2 Answers

My daughter's 96 camry, 4 cylinder died while she was moving

Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?

Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead.(don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark.It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)

If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens.Wiring tests ok.ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........

Oct 02, 2009 | 1996 Toyota Camry

2 Answers

No spark

Possibly the crank sensor.

Jun 02, 2009 | 1996 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

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