Question about 1996 Toyota Camry
I used a timing light on the coil wire to distributor to see if there is spark. There is no or occasional spark while cranking but there is spark upon releasing the key from the start position and the engine fires if only for one or 2 cylinders. It is below freezing right now so it seems it's hard for the engine to catch. I was trying to start it 2 days ago when cold, below freezing, but no dice but it did start when the weather was in the 30's F a day later in the sun. I originally thought this to be a fuel problem but timing light reveals no spark. Just put a new battery in it but the old one was dead. Thanks for any help.
It is better to use a spark gap to observe the size and quality of the spark when testing. A suitable gap can be manufactured from an old spark plug modified by carefully cutting away much of the tread with a hacksaw and taping it to a bulldog or crocodile clip so it produces a gap of about 10/13mm.
It certain isn't unusual for an ignition system to produce a spark when the key is released.
It is possible for the inside of a distributor cap to develop a conductive coating so spark testing should be done initially from the coil lead disconnected from the dist cap.
I don't know what ignition system your Camry is fitted with but broadly there will be a trigger, amplifier, coil and spark distribution. Older versions used discrete components but as time marched on more was integrated into the management system though regardless of system it cannot work efficiently without a good supply of current and effective grounds so the first thing to do is identify the system type and components and check these using a voltmeter while the engine is cranking.
Without more details it is difficult to tell you more that would be useful to you - clearly if the amplifier is integrated the approach must be somewhat different than if it is discrete and similarly whether the distributor contains the trigger and if it does whether it is a hall-effect type, optical or inductive...
Posted on Apr 07, 2017
Sounds more like an electrical problem.First I'd check the battery voltage, should be at least 13. It shouldn't drop much below 11 when you crank the engine and it should bounce back when you stop. Make sure your connections are good especially to the coil,wires aren't frayed or loose on connectors. There should be a ground from the body to the motor. Is it still thereand making good contact? If I'm not mistaken the coil should ground to the motor, make sure it has good contact as well. Also double check your connections at the starter to make sure they are clean and tight. Loose connections can draw extra power and could draw enough extra power to kill the coil. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
Most likely I a would suspect the fuel rail had moisture in it. If you checked emissions it would most likely show no HC and alot of 02 and no CO. If it does show alot of HC then I would suspect sticking valves intermittantly . The pinging really points to no fuel issue tho. If you pull the injector connector off and no change then I would remove the fuel rail and inspect. Also make sure the wires are in the correct locations. It easy to get them wrong.
Posted on Sep 03, 2009
Check to see if you have spark at the coil. If you have spark at the coil and no spark at the plug, you probably have a bad distributor cap and/or rotor.
If there is no spark at the coil, you need to find out if there is voltage present at the B+ terminal of the coil.
No B+ could be anything from a bad ASD relay to a broken wire or burned fusible link.
If B+ voltage is present at the coil, the "NO-SPARK" condition could be caused by anything from a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) to a bad Ignition Control Module (ICM) To a bad Electronic Control Unit ((ECU) - AKA Engine Control Module)
Posted on Nov 02, 2009
If coil is good and plugs are not - there's your problem. You can't have output of coil be good and plugs not work right. Something inbetween is wrong.
Posted on Dec 17, 2009
Good Evening, you might want to check those injectors, I can not remember for certain but that setup was sequential and when one or two have a problem it would take out the rest. Ohm out the injectors and see what you have there.
Posted on Nov 03, 2010
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