Random acceleration intermittent, NOT sticking cable,cruise ctrl,map or iac forward and reverse, hot or cold, first shift(commonly reverse backing out of parking space) sometimes, but other times not related in any way to shifting or pedal position or pedal manipulation (ex: driving at steady speed on road or freeway when for no apparent reason van will jump to wide open throttle condition (no pedal change))

the service manual OEM 120 pages, said this, did VECI fall off?
VACUUM SCHEMATICS
A vacuum schematic for emission related items can
be found on the Vehicle Emission Control Informa-
tion (VECI) label. For label location, refer to Vehicle
Emission Control Information (VECI) Label" << federal laws here EPA.


engine starts (sure) but does it have FULL POWER hot and cold????????????
throttle cable jammed?
is it automatic tranny>? and Kick down cable jammed?
got cruise. and cruise to TB cable jammed.
scans show this:
"P1299 Vacuum Leak Found (IAC Fully
Seated)
MAP Sensor signal does not correlate to Throttle Position
Sensor signal. Possible vacuum leak!"



FAST IDLE HAS MEANY CAUSES!
THE Primary case is the IAC fails or vacuum leaks cause the IAC to go out of control. IAC is bolted to the TB. and is weak, then.

I have the service manual, so can be exacting
as you may know this jeep uses MAP Sensors fuel then engine.
called Speed Density system. jeep (as in NO MAF sensor)
that means any vacuum leak, cause fast RPM even your right foot does.
the 2.5 is cut down 4.0L:
and is MPI 4 injectors injecting it.
we can pinch all vacuum lines, (not PCV) and see if RPM hot drops from 2k to 800 rpm,. bingo that line leaks if it drops RPM large.
easy no? ,just pinch a line. or pull the end point and cork it, up.
the car is 1999 and all 99 cars USA (is it) have OBD2 port. why not just scan the PCM first.? see errors called DTC. and can really help cut down time. and buying useless parts not needed at all.
I owned for years a 1999 cherokee, 4.0L near same drive line. 5sp,m/t box.

here are some very very common caused, seen on all ;my jeeps back to 1988.
this is not guess, it is all jeeps fail here. every one,owned long enough and not serviced correctly
THE IAC is simply clogged up., so clean it? all; mine loved to clog until my newer jeeps are TBW,throttle by wire. no IAC , now, gone.

The the Throttle body TV throttle valve plate is gunked up and sticking open
again, clean it. (PULL TB off)

that is 2 thing things and to be frank , vast places go get vacuum leaks
even old cracked injector cushion seals( at base) sucking air.
we use a smoke machine on the hard nut cases. just like EVAP side.


more, Brake booster leaks, called a huge vacuum leaks
I bet EVAP hoses do not race the engine ever.
map vac hose cracked
egr hoses cracked. vac.
HVAC dash heater controls vac hose cracked and sucking air./
canister evap purge valve hose cracked, sucking air
it has a distributor vacuum advance hose. plug them to see if they leak.
the map sensor quote SM.
"INSTALLATION
(1) Install rubber L-shaped fitting to MAP sensor.
(2) Position sensor to throttle body while guiding
rubber fitting over throttle body vacuum nipple.
(3) Install MAP sensor mounting bolts (screws).
Tighten screws to 3 N·m (25 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install air cleaner intake tube"

see that word rubber there, what if that leaks air.
the under hood HVAC parts there have vacuum tank to hold vacuum in reserve and it too can leak air .

I have cured vast vacuum leaks. on engines.
nature abhors a vacuum (on earth)
the end point sucks air. (like diaphragm devices and HVAC lots)
to see all vacuum things in my OEM SM
I had t type F3 100 times to find them all. find.F3 command.
PDF reader.
no single diagram is there in the book, , its on the VECI lable on car.
look under hood and up and under hood yet?


the PCM can go to limp home
and doing so can force the IAC to dead, OFF LINE,
so not scanning the PCM first is really bad idea. knowing just that.
good luck, !

Code for high idle is different,are you sure was 245?could be 225

dont drive it. find the cause and fix it now.
Hot and cold engine or BOTH>?
1995 Tracker, no tranny , no 4wd , on engine options stated.
Exact high RPM in neutral, not stated...... 1500 is normal cold.
keeps going in Neutral. (nah , you have 5 ways to stop any car.
key, hand brake, foot brake and neutral. and with 4wd, 1 more neutral.
keep that in mind driving any car.
this car has up to 3 throttle cables that can stick. and more!

1: floor mats hit the pedal>? ala. Toyota style (lawsuits)
2: the three cables are, throttle. , cruise and A/T transmission kick down cable. if car is M/T and no cruise it has 1 cable.
so disconnect it, throttle fixed? (disconn,. 1 by 1, bingo?

no cure?, then its not the pedal , you meant just high idle.
yes, replace the cable or bad parts three.
ok say its not the cables.. (tests proved that)
the 95 came with 2 engines, 8valves and 16valves,
they work differently (8v love so race, 16v loves to stall)

1: ISC Stuck open, common.
2: 8v, any air leaks at all , will cause super high idle speeds.
3: throttle valve in the throttle body is stuckopen (gunk) or the return spring broken (very very rare the latter,in fact never heard of one breaking)
4: IAC (thermal idle control stuck open ,(my 97 was). and lots more.
5: on the 16v it takes 2 failures. to make high idle.
gross rich running engine (cold engine its normal) and any air leak
once hot the engine can not race unless there is huge overfueling
and an air leak.
6: the 8v has this device on the side of the throttle body.
called a dash pot. its just a fast idle vacuum servo.
if stuck open the engine will scream full time....
7: ECU stuck in limphome, can cause too high idle speeds.

we need to know which engine
http://www.fixkick.com/find-parts.html
8v or 16v first.
then does the idle race hot or cold or both (engine temperatures)
if it races , then how fast?, RPM the dash tachometer tells you that.

it can be as simple as a 50cent hose cracked.
to a dead ISC. (idle speed control) IAC is thermal idle air controller.
the IAC must be closed on a hot engine,
if the the engine never gets hot,it will scream full time.

E27 Open Throttle Switch Signal here is a list of all codes E12 No Distributor Reference Signal E13 Oxygen Sensor Not Ready E14 Shorted Coolant Sensor E15 Open Coolant Sensor E16 Generator Voltage Out of Range E19 Shorted Fuel Pump Circuit E20 Open Fuel Pump Circuit E21 Shorted Throttle Position Sensor E22 Open Throttle Position Sensor E23 EST Signal Problem E24 Speed Sensor Circuit Problem E26 Shorted Throttle Switch Circuit E27 Open Throttle Switch Signal E30 ISC RPM Out Of Range E31 Shorted MAP Sensor Signal E32 Open MAP Sensor Signal E34 MAP Sensor Signal Out Of Range E37 Shorted MAT Sensor Signal E38 Open MAT Sensor Signal E39 VCC Engagement Problem E40 Power Steering Pressure Switch Signal E41 Cam Sensor Signal Problem E44 Oxygen Sensor Signal Lean E45 Oxygen Sensor Signal Rich E47 BCM to PCM/ECM Data Problem E48 EGR System Problem E52 PCM/ECM Memory Reset E53 Distributor Signal Interrupt E55 Closed Throttle Angle Out of Range E58 Pass Key Control Problem E60 Cruise - Not In Drive E61 Cruise - Vent Solenoid Problem E62 Cruise - Vacuum Solenoid Problem E63 Cruise - Set Speed vs Vehicle Speed E64 Cruise - Acceleration Too High E65 Cruise - Servo Position Signal Problem E66 Cruise - Engine RPM Too High E67 Cruise - Switch Shorted E68 Cruise - Command Problem E70 Intermittent TPS E71 Intermittent MAP E73 Intermittent Coolant Sensor E74 Intermittent MAT Sensor Signal E75 Intermittent VSS Signal E80 Fuel System Rich E85 Idle Throttle Angle Too High E90 Cruise - VCC Brake Switch Signal Problem E91 Cruise - PRNDL Switch Problem E92 Heated Windshield Request Problem E96 Torque Converter Overstress E97 P/N To D/R Engagement Problem E98 P/N To D/R ISC Engaged Problem E99 Cruise - Servo Apply Problem

IAC valve @ throttle body regulates the air/fuel idle. its right in front of the throttlebody, replace it, MAP sensor works together with IAC, both could be your problem. everything else you did is good, I feel these items are necessary to put you back in bussiness, just do it !!!

You might want to check for a busted fuel pressure regulator diaphragm. With the engine running, pull the vacuum line off the regulator. If gas comes out of the regulator, replace it. For the acceleration issue, check the signal on the map sensor. It should change drastically when you open the throttle.

if check engine light is on then it has codes in it, period. need to get scanned somewhere else

is this a automatic transmission or a stick if its a stick could be clutch plate when you put it in reverse and it does nothing its an internal problem sorry have a free check done of it at a transmission shop

Take your car to a mechanic or your local auto parts superstore and have them read/scan the codes for the reason for the check engine light. A good place to start.

This is a common problem. You have a cracked forward clutch piston. Ford made this part out of aluminum. The replacements are steel. But you have to disassemble the transmission to install it. ( I know you said Rev too, In the AXODE trans, the forward clutch is on in 1st and reverse)