96 Cadillac Eldorado battery discharges overnight, every night. The engine was replaced with a used north star engine of like kind, same year and model. The battery has been replaced with a new, fully charged battery. Car starts, runs, and then discharges overnight, every night. I drove approximately 12 miles. Amps displayed during the 12 mile drive ranged from 11.5 to 14.0 amps. Shut off motor for less than 5 minutes and battery would not start car. I placed a light between positive post and cable, and processed to remove and reinsert each fuse, one at a time. The light did not dim or turn off at anytime. The light remained fully illuminated through out all fuses being removed and reinserted! Please help! Thanks E.J. Hutchinson [email protected]
Alternator has bad diode which allows alternator drain out battery.older cars had generators with external cutout relay to keep from battery drain but bad diode cause battery drain.
First step have the battery tested, a bad cell can cause a internal drain and kill the battery, if the batt is ok then check for interior lights like visors that stay on or interior light that come on by themselves at night due to defective door switches.
SOURCE: DISCHARGE WARNING LIGHT ON
It might leave you stranded. Because without the alternator. which I think is your problem your battery will run down in a very short time. Even if you had a new battery.Check the belt first as Toyota Ed suggested. If it's good, and not broken. Replace the alternator and if you have to, the battery also. One could affect the other.
SOURCE: Blown Fuses - Dead 1998 Ford Escort
Try changing the fuel filter first we always change them when servicing the fuel pump anyway,its easy and cheap,if that doesnt solve the problem you will have to perform an amperage draw test on the fuel pump to insure your not replacing a good pump. Check the fuel pump relay and inertia switch and wiring also.Although possible its unlikley the fuel pump would blow a fuse consistantly without displaying any driveability problems.There may also be another component running off the fuel pump fuse have your mechanic pull a wiring diagram to find out. Good hunting keep me informed
SOURCE: Keeps blowing starter fuse when you turn the key to start engine.
YOU GOT A IGNITION WIRE TO STARTER SHORTING TO GROUND.
SOURCE: 1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE
This looks like you have the fuel tank vacuum. When is in repaus, the tank is sucking some air. When you start the engine, the fuel pump is sucking the fuel from tank and if this don't have a breathing hole or if this is clog or obturated then the fuel pump cannot **** anymore fuel and the engine stops. If you let it for a period of time alone then the tank might **** some air but not enough, so the engine will start but the simptome will show again. I had this simptomes with my car. Try to remove the fuel tank cap and see if you can drive more than 6-7 miles. If so, then the special breathing air hole in the fuel tank is clog. Identify it and clean it. I am not so sure about this problem but is just an ideea. Might be helpfull, who knows? Otherwise should be a PCM problem. In this case you should make a computer test. Good luck!
SOURCE: I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. A couple of months
Well it's temping to put in biggfer fuses as the problem gets worse but the size of the fuses are to keep you from burning things up so you've from your probem with a 30 amp smoke test. The raditor fan wire is melted somewhere in the wire harnes to the wire for the trck lock or even key on circirts. the likly place to look is inside the stering collum. It takes the skills of removing the steering whel and the lcok plate and even then thats does'nt have to be where the problem is. You need to look under the dash after you remove the covers and use you nose to smeel for the burnt wiring and open up any thing the smells like it's been hot and anything the appers melted together. once a harness is found melted you need to seragete all the wires in the loom but don't cut the wires justy seaparte them. once you think you've got then all pulled apart so no bear wires touch each other or any meal parts put in the correct size fuses and see if you can connect the battery with out a spark. if you can you may then start checking to see what works and what does'nt.. This all sounds like too much work or too hard to do then you'll need to pay someone theat knows alot about car wiring problems to do it for you. I'll been doing this kind of work for the last 20 years and a'm alawys finding new things that are fried and burnt up. We all charge by the hour to do this work so the most experieced mechanic that works on cars like yours will probly find and fix the problem the fastest. therefore they may charge more per hour but their likly to get it right quicker and it'll stay fixed after they fix it.. This is the most likly kind of work to go sour after it's fixed cause they might miss a circuit that you use and they did'nt try. and as soon as it burns again it's back to the drawing board and if big fuses are use the fire can take the whole car.
http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5824824-draining_car_battery_charge
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have alternator tested.if all is good you could have problem heated winshield power module.
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