Question about 1995 Chevrolet K2500
Posted by Anonymous on
there are a couple of hunderd diff things that can turn this light on, u need to have the system tested to determine what the code is that was stored with the when the light came on.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
the high beam turn signal cruise control switch in the steering column will do exactly this. we just replaced ours in our tahoe. we had only high beams also.
Posted on Jan 03, 2010
First check for any cracked pipes leading into the intake manifold If all OK (with no codes showing it probably is OK) try checking the fuel pressure regulator. If you smell fuel from the pressure regulator vacuum side arm (when the vacuum line has been disconnected) it needs to be replaced.
Posted on May 28, 2010
SOURCE: 1973 chevy truck vacuum diagram
Pretty sure I have the diagrams etc but they are buried away and would take a week to find.
BUT: The setup on that engine for that year is fairly uncomplicated and you could pretty much do away with all the emission controls etc and get the engine running really well. (just block off all vacuum ports on the manifold and carb except for the one to the transmission and power brake booster) I'm not really familiar with the edelbrock carb (looks like they are based on the old carter AFB carb though. I am partial to holley carbs, and the old quadrajet carbs)
What you need to check first though is your fuel pressure and delivery. You should be seeing 5-7 psi at the carb. With the fuel line disconnected, and attached to a rubber hose diverted into a container, you should see at least a gallon of fuel pumped at idle before the carb runs out of fuel. Make sure you don't have any leaks in the fuel line coming from the tank...with a pull type pump (mechanical pump on the engine) a leak often will not drip, but will allow air to be drawn into the line while running. Make sure that if your carb has a filter in the fuel inlet, it is clean. Make sure that the fuel line filter (sock) in the tank is also clean.
It's likely you have an egr valve on the manifold, If so, you can temporarily block it off with a small piece of metal from a soda can installed between the valve and the manifold. That will prevent it from working and if it has any leaks, blocking it off will eliminate it from the system. If that helps, replace the valve.
Your ignition system is fairly simple. a single 12 volt lead goes to the battery side of the distributor. You can block off the vacuum advance temporarily and just set the initial timing at about 8 degrees advanced. (depending upon fuel quality, you can go as high as 12) . The ignition module is not "testable" usually though they either work or they don't )
You do need to check the wires that attach to the pickup under the mount plate to make sure they are not partially broken and grounding when the advance moves the plate.
Back to your carburetor... If you are test driving without the air cleaner housing in place, it is possible that if there is a heat pad mounted to the underside of the hood, it can get drawn down against the carb inlet and cause problems. If the air cleaner housing is in place, make sure that the inlet door in the snorkel is opening or, disconnect the vacuum hose going to it as default on those is wide open. If you have tried everything I've outlined, you may have to go inside the carb and make sure that the power valve isn't frozen or that the float level isn't set too low.
Once you get it running right, you can begin to look for the diagrams etc you are looking for, but at least it will be running and usable.
The only other item that could give you a problem like the one you have is if the cam timing was set incorrectly at the factory (doubtful but it can happen) but I really would not worry about that just yet.
Hope something here helps!!! Good luck!
Posted on Aug 01, 2010
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