Fixing a clutch that suddenly stopped disengaging properly.

What do you mean when you say you fixed the cable. It sounds like the cable broke and you replaced it. Is that correct. If so, did you adjust the free play in the clutch pedal to the manufacturers specification. If you have not done this correctly the clutch will either not disengage, or no engage properly. From your description it appears as though there is n free play and hence the clutch is staying disengaged even when you release the clutch pedal. If this is the case, then try lengthening the cable until the clutch pedal moves with say 25 mm of free movement before anything happens, and try again.

This may be two possible issues. If your transmission grinded in the past your transmission may have finally given up the ghost. Also your clutch disk may be broken or worn to the point where you can no longer shift. It seems like the latter your going to have to replace your clutch if your a big on doing it yourself a clutch kit is 400$ at autozone. It may be cheaper online good luck I hope this helps

Either there is low clutch fluid or air in the system. Or the clutch slave cylinder is leaking within itself.

Do you mean you can't get the clutch to DISengage? You need the clutch to disengage - 'unlock' the transmission input shaft from the flywheel - in order to change gears.
If you put the transmission in 1st gear and start the engine and the truck starts moving with the pedal depressed, the clutch IS engaged. I think you mean that you can't get it to disengage so you can stop without killing the engine, and can change gears without a lot of grinding.
If this is the case, check to see that the clutch cable or linkage (if you have mechanical linkage) is properly adjusted, or that you hydraulic lines and slave cylinder are bled if you have a hydraulically controlled clutch.

You want to shorten the cable. Loosen the lock nut.Turn the cable adjuster clockwise to shorten the cable. This takes some skill, and knowledge to get the clutch adjusted just right. You want about 1/2 inch of free play in the pedal. All of this varies according to the wear on your clutch. You say your clutch is new, so acheving a proper adjustment should be no problem. Keep tweaking the adjustment to get it catching where you like it.

The clutch in your vehicle is connected to your pedal via a cable system or a hydrolic system. BOTH were available. IF yours is hydrolic, which is doubtful due to behgavior, your cannot adjust it. The cable type is better suited for adjustment. This is done at the end that attaches to the clutchplate at the bracket located on the transmission housing. It will turn to adjust. right tight left lose, it appears that you will need to tighted it a pinch to keep it from "jumping." DO NOT tighten so that the clutchplate disengages, this only a very slight adjustment. good luck

as the clutch wears the "free pedal" is reduced ... its easy to adjust "free pedal" and important to do so .. when there is very little or no free movement above where the clutch engages/disengages then the clutch starts to wear rapidly ... if there are no other symptoms like clutch chatter, slipping or noise then the clutch plate likely has some life left if it is adjusted properly and promptly ..

Your Friction disk (clutch) is worn out. Have it replaced....might also need pressure plate, but not necessarily.

The rod at the end of the slave cylinder can be adjusted. make sure clutch pedal has no more than an inch and a half of free play. If free play is within the 1.5" & still have problem with clutch disengaging, chances are clutch is worn