Hard starting,code 301,rough idle,sometimes it will just stall when at stop or turning. new plugs,wires,dis.cap, ect.cleaned all grounds on fender and engine,also at pcm....any ideas
WILL START HEER OK MAIN THING TO DO IS CHECK COMPRESSION AT CILINDER # 1 ANYTHING OVER 120 LB ITS OK ALSO WHEN TAKEING PLUG OUT CHECK SPARK PLUG SEE IF WET OF OIL OR GAS OK LET ME KNOW ILL HELP YOU FIX YOUR PROBLEM IM A AUTO REPAIR SHOP MECHANIC OK
If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.
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Mercedes Benz MB Star C3 Diagnostic Tool
SOURCE: 1998 Jeep Cherokee - hard to start
My 98 Cherokee was the exact same. I used to have to turn the key back and forth 3 times and then it would start. Otherwise it would just crank and crank for a while and then start. Pretty embarrassing! Took it to the dealer and they said that my fuel pump was losing pressure. I changed the fuel pump and I don't have to prime the pump anymore.
SOURCE: 1989 ford stalls when idling ,runs rough at idle
Check for any trouble codes in the engine computer, and have the fuel pressure tested. If it is throttle body injection. observe the spray pattern of the injector when it pulses. You should see a cone pattern of the fuel spraying down into the intake. If it drips, or appears anemic, the injector might be partially clogged. Try some injector cleaner in the gas tank.
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