WARNING LIGHTS KEEP COMING ON!!!!

Anytime the battery light on the dash comes on is an indicator of the alternator not charging, resulting in a dead battery. Low voltage will cause other warning lights to come on as well. Replace the alternator and fully charge the battery before running the engine, to avoid full field condition with the new alternator ( overheating).

Do a compression check it will give you a sign if you have a blown head gasket also check to see if your oil is frothy or has water in it same with anti freeze does it have oil in it these are signs of a bad head gasket . You might want to check your sensor on your crankshaft it isn't expensive maybe should have a mechanic with a good reputation check it most that are NAISE are very honest.

• Doug Warne Your kia here is what i would do to help diagnosisMar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne First of all i would do these steps"
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne how does it run when cold how does it run when hot
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne i would look for Vacuum Leaks
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne i would remove the spark plugs check engine compression hope to see about 180 psi on each cylinder
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne i would exam each spark plugs to see if fowled with Gasoline or carbon keep spark plug with each cylinder because low compression will cause this
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne low compression i would exam cooling systemfor airbubles or coolant in engine oil
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne if oil looks milky white in color its coolant do not operate vehicle
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne change head gasket get head kit with valve cover and take head to machine shop to have shaved straight and checked for cracks Replace head with Remanufactured if warrpiage to great or stress cracks
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne check air filter and breather to insure the intake is getting air before you do compression test
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne if engine dies when hot lets look at the fuel pump pressure
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne lets take and look at the fuel cap where you put your fuel in make sure the vent is open which allow outside air pressure becuase you can have a 100 billion gallon second pump but if there is no air coming into take the pump will pump 0
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne Check your OBD 2 codes First this will give you ideas of what happening ie bad oxgen sensor telling me look for vacuum leak or poor spark ignition or poor engine compression, possible injector leaking
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne poor compression tell me the engine maybe out of timing and or valves or worn or burnt exspecially when engine is hot and it dies
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne a cylinder leak down test would be revealing for valves or piston rings
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne if engine has good Intake of Air and gas mixture and then good compression of air and gas mixture and good spark from the Ignition and good flowing exhaust the engine will operated smoothly
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne if engine looses power or stalls when hot take a look at the catyalitic converters to see if glowing red or hot one side and cooler on rear side also check the exahust pessure at tail pipe to see if cats are plugged if you have little exhaust pressure and no exhaust leaks
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne i hope this helps and i always kiss the job.............
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne Keep IT Simple Stupid
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne i hope this helps
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne as far as the thermostat is the engine running hot..????
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne CHECK FOR AIR BUBBLES IN COOLANT as piston compress air if it leaking pass the headgasket seal into the coolant jacket this will cause air bubbles and you may loose heat out of the heater core...i have seen this with cracked heads also so if this is the case have head checked at machine shop
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne check the oil from the dip stick smell it see if you smell gasoline this is telling me thin oil, possible injector leaking gasoline
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne Low engine Compression with satuerate oil the oil ring on the piston will have hard time to create seal to cylinder wall there fore low compression exspecially when engine is hot
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne get a spray bottle fill with water and with engine runing spray water in coil packs and spark plugs wires to see if there cracked or frayed Electricty is lazy it will use the water as a ciricut and go to ground through the water this is telling me cracked coil pack or plug wires engine will began to miss and fumble while running
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne these are some tricks i use to help diagnosis problems....hope this helps
  Mar 19, 2014
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  Doug Warne As far as the A/c Heater Blower i would first check the Fuse in the box with a test light, and i would check all the fuses remember you have a battery side and ignition side of the fuse box if the fuse is blow replace with manufacture Amp Fuse and if new fuse shorts then i would look at blower motor draw
  Mar 20, 2014
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  Doug Warne Check your battery Cold Crank Amps with a load test meter most parts store will do for free hoping you will buy a battery and if batter test not good if you choose to not to replace your alternator will be charging constentently and the trio diode board in your regulator located inside the alternator in most applications these days will short then this will cause a battery high amp draw so your battery wont start in the am when your late for work..
  Mar 20, 2014
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  Doug Warne If your battery is loosing charge overnight or anytime you can simply take your negaitive Cable from your batter and put a test light from the negiative cable then touch your neg. terminal and if test light illuminates you have a draw and bad draw so take amp meter and test to see the draw in amps if high amp draw i would first look at the regulator and remove the 12volt singe wire and see if draw disappear if draw is no longer then 99 percent your regulator has shorted
  

Have the alternator and battery tested this many warning lights come on most often due to low battery voltage due to a faulty alternator.

run fault codes and check for mechanical problems . If you did not have the head machined before replacing the gasket then have a compression test done as you may still have a compression / gasket problem

it could be the alternator . measure the output voltage across the battery with the engine running and car in neutral with hand brake on. It should at least 13.4 volts.
If it does then I would get the battery checked at a car battery place.
A car battery place could also check your alternator.

If you are stranded at the lights suggest calling a mobile car battery replacement person or a road assist company if you are a member of one.

They can jumper a temporary mobile battery across your battery to get car out of traffic stream !

Before replacing alternator testing should be done , is there B+ voltage at the heavier gage wire on the back of the alternator . Could have a blown fuse or fusible link . Your vehicle from what you have posted , isn't charging . Plus there is a regular fuse located in the under hood fuse box F1.13 - 10 amp this supply's B+ voltage to the orange with lit blue stripe wire at the three wire connector plugged into the alternator . The other two wires come from the PCM - engine computer . This charging system is computer controlled . Ford PCM controlled alternator testing

It is possible when the manifold was re installed the gaskets werent replaced or are leaking, or if the timing belt was put on off one tooth the engine will not run well.

Sorry way before the time of the internet no info on this wiring.

Hi there, I am a girl (i.e. not car savvy), but I have a 1998 Altima as well, and the first time (4 months ago) I noticed the brake and battery lights on simultaneously, I took it to a Nissan service shop. Everything seemed fine until about a month ago when the symptoms returned. I ignored the problem for 3 days and the car just stopped running, period. Took it back to the shop, figured out it was a fauly alternator, got it sorted, no problem. Today (1 month after replacement), I see the same bloody problem, and I'm taking it back to the shop in the morning. I am wondering... is it the alternator, or something connected to the alternator that is malfunctioning? The 2 alternators put in were "rebuilt" since they didn't have genuine Nissan alternators available. I really hope the dealers aren't taking me for a merry ride.