The locking system on the saturn keeps recycling to the point of complete battery drain.

If the locking seems continuous and almost glitchy I would buy new locks for both front doors. If it seems to be one timing lock and not acting glitchy then it most likely is a interference with a security alarm at that point I would disconnect the fuse for pwr locks as a quick fix.

There are many problems that could cause this issue. Your electrical system might have a drain somewhere -- maybe your alarm is malfunctioning (if you have one), or maybe a wire in the engine has somehow become damaged, grounding the system and discharging your batter at a slow rate. If your battery has been completely discharged before (completely dead) it might not be holding a charge like it should. Your alternator might not be charging the batter like it should while you drive, causing your battery to drain constantly and never recharge automatically like it's supposed to. It could be something more complex in your car's computer or electrical system.
The easiest way to check this is to go to a mechanic with an electrical system checker. Sears Auto Canter has all of the equipment, and charges a reasonable rate for checking your electrical system. Their equipment checks, no only the battery, but the whole electrical system for power drains, and the effectiveness of your alternator. If there is a power drain, Sears Auto can find it -- and they can help replace what is broken. They can also check the health of your battery itself (if it is not holding a charge, you can get a new one there). If it is not that, at least you have eliminated one possible cause.
If the car will start when jumped, it is most likely an issue with which Sears can help. If the car is still not working when attached to another car's battery or a jumper battery, then the problem is a bit more serious. In this case, a professional mechanic can inspect the car and find the issue, or at least give you a cost estimate, so you know if it is worth fixing.

well the battery could be refusing to take much of a charge, the alternator might not be putting out enough to keep the car running and charge the battery. or there could be something draining the battery, even with the ignition in off position. you can take the battery and alternator into advance or autozone for a test, but the drain problem is going to take some trouble shooting. things which are on even when off can be the remote door locks, remote starter, lights in the glove box and trunk. if you have aftermarket stuff like custom radios, GPS, etc. are usually put in by someone who does not know what they are doing so i would start there.

the car has systems on it which use the battery even when the ignition is off. typically this would be trunk/underhood/glovebox lights, door locks, and other anti-theft stuff. one of the systems has gone awry and instead of a tiny drain, like a digital clock, you have a big drain like a head light which kills the battery. someone needs to do some trouble shooting and figure out what is the bad guy and disable or fix it. you are trying to fix a leaking swimming pool by pouring more water into it, ain't gonna work. Unless you know an auto electric place a GM dealer is most likely your best bet as they have seen this many times before and have the tech manuals and updates on it. 80 bucks an hour is not so bad if it only takes half hour.

auto door lock systems are great for draining batteries while the car sits. so are trunk, glove box, and other interior lights. someone is going to have to figure what is draining the battery while the car is off by troubleshooting it and eliminating things.

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Parasitic drain on the battery . Could be caused by a number of thing's , not just the trunk light staying lit . A computer (module) not powering down when it's suppose to. Insturment cluster's have problem with silver migration , the solder they use . Google that . Testing for a draw on the electrical system is the way to see if this is your problem .
How To Perform Parasitic Draw Test EricTheCarGuy
The BEST Way TO Perform Parasitic Draw Test
The Trainer 27 3 Ways Of Finding The Cause Of Key Off Battery Drain...

You seem to have an electrical drain on your battery from what you are saying. However the drain can be coming form you alternator. With some skills I can tell you how to check for the source of this drain, Its an old technique that I learned years ago. Get a regular test light(the one with a bulb/light in it) disconnect your negative batter lead from the negative post on the battery. Connect clip end of test light to battery pole. Touch pointed tip to battery cable(negative one) With ignition key off and out of ignition and all doors locked and ALL OTHER ACCESSORIES OFF... this test light bulb should NOT be lit. If it is there is a drain. Go to main fuse boxes and remove fuses on at a time(MAKE SURE ALL DOOR ARE LOCKED AND ALL ACCESSORIES ARE OFF when doing this procedure) As you remove a fuse if light is still on replace in the same spot and move on to next fuse until light on test light goes OUT. when it does "Bingo" that's the circuit that has a drain in it. Some accessory in that circuit is draining your battery. Locating the source should be easy the fuses are marked by what they control. Contact if you need more help. Good Luck

I had something similar to this and found that all it was was the copper plate on the ground lead to the battery was caked with corosion...