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open the bonnet on the drivers side by the wing is the pipe that comes from the egr valve with the bonnet open rev the engine and see if both sides of the pipe suck into the middle if so it could well be your turbo that is the problem you would notice the car using more oil than normalopen the bonnet on the drivers side by the wing is the pipe that comes from the egr valve with the bonnet open rev the engine and see if both sides of the pipe suck into the middle if so it could well be your turbo that is the problem you would notice the car using more oil than normal
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The
following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any
electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.
The
engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only
for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the
transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in
most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory
of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as
the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done
is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system
for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for
engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained
technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then
based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the
correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer
replaced (known as the PCM), which is very rarely the problem. Other
basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with
the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine.
The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear
engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related
problems. Also engine mechanical problems can and do cause many
drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other symptoms.
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the sensor is part of the throttle body and not replaceable here is the throttle body replacement instructions as you will have to replace the entire throttle body it is a very common issue with these THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Remove the air cleaner intake duct.
Disconnect the electronic throttle control (ETC) electrical connector (1) from the throttle body (2).
Remove the heater pipe nut at the throttle body.
Remove only the heater inlet pipe.
Remove the nuts and the bolts from the throttle body.
NOTE: Do not use solvent of any type when cleaning the gasket surfaces on the intake manifold and the throttle body assembly, as damage to the gasket surfaces and throttle body assembly may result.
Use care in cleaning the gasket surfaces on the intake manifold and the throttle body assembly, as sharp tools may damage the gasket surfaces.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Install a new gasket, if necessary.
Install the throttle body assembly.
Install the throttle body nuts and the bolts.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Tighten the nuts and the bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in) .
Install the heater inlet pipe.
Install the heater pipe nut to the throttle body.
Tighten the nut to 25 N.m (18 lb ft) .
Connect the ETC electrical connector (1) to the throttle body (2).
clean the idle air control inlet on the throttle body
to clean the idle air control port
find a helper to push the throttle
remove the inlet hose from the throttle body
using a suitable spray cleaner spray into the throttle body and have your helper rev the engine to keep it from stalling. Don't spray to constantly just a quick one or two second squeeze
let the engine idle again and see if its stable
There are a few other possible causes such as an old fuel filter or a fuel pump issue
your throttle body is somewhere between your air box(air filter) and the inlet manifold. although some cars like nissan skyline gtr,s or the pulsar gtir have thiers on the manifold itself and has a throttle body for each cylinder. hope this helps.
On the inlet flex hose coming from the Air Filter to the Throttle Body, there is attached with 2 tiny screws the AIR FLOW METER,or by the side of the Throttle body,remove it carefully and remove the "O" Rings and use a carburator cleaner and clean the inside of it where the Hot-Wire is as the dust picked up by the filter will seat on the Hot wire and cause the false message sent to the ECU and makes car goes very slowly .
follow the water inlet pipe to water pump the thermostat housing connects to water pump this is for 2.4l engine you have to remove exhaust manifold heat shield.you will see the water inlet pipe going to water pump inlet thermostat housing.for the 3.1 engine follow top radiator hose to thermostat housing you have to remove air filter air duct and filter housing , you have to remove throttle body unit with coolant hoses, you have to disconnect accelerator cable, transmission down shift cables at the bracket bolts to throttle body.once you remove throttle body unit then you can see and remove the thermostat housing to replace thermostat.you need to buy new throttle body gasket,and new small coolant hoses connects to the throttle body unit.have extra gallon antifreeze dexcool on hand.
You do not state the age of the car or the type or the size of engine or whether it is petrol or diesel. On older E class models a fault in the over voltage protection relay would cause cars to be very jerky in idle.
In general on petrol models I would start with the throttle body. Remove the air ducting between the air filter cleaner and the throttle. Make sure the interior of the throttle, the throttle plate and throttle area behind the throttle plate is really clean. Ensure that all all air ducting joints and vacuum lines to the inlet plenum are free of any leaks. On some engine variants the cam sensor oil seal over time can fail allowing oil to contaminate the electrical connection. Thoroughly cleaning the socket and replacing the 'o' ring usually fixes this.
On diesels (3.2 CDi etc) the EGR feed pipe from the exhaust manifold around the back of the engine to the inlet manifold can become clogged with soot. Push a frayed bit of hand brake cable through it to clean it; clamping the cable in a drill chuck can make for a very effective flexible interior wire brush around pipe pipe corners etc.
Any further information you can provide as per the opening statement would help in the diagnosis
Check that you have not got any vacum leaks between inlet manifold and cylinder head.
Check your spark plugs and HT leads are in good condition and not worn, reset gaps. If worn replace them.
Worse scenario is the head gasket make be leaking water into a cylinder. Get a cylinder leakage test done to verify any manifold air leaks or faulty sealing head gaskets. Good luck, let me know how you get on.
You could have a dirty EGR valve, you can re move it from the manifold and clean it with Throttle body cleaner. Might as well buy two cans, since your cleaning the EGR, might as well clean out the throttle body too.
Spray the throttle body cleaner in to the throttle body with the engine running and try to keep it at 1000 rpm and then to 1500 rpm as you clean out the throttle body and let it idle down for 2 min then turn the engine off. Then turn the engine to the run position for 10 seconds and start and let idle, ro for a test drive and hope that solved the problem, if not there a few more things we can do which will consist for tune up.
Note: Clean the EGR first so you don't burn your self since the engine would still be cool before you clean the Throttle body.
Good luck and keep me posted.
open the bonnet on the drivers side by the wing is the pipe that comes from the egr valve with the bonnet open rev the engine and see if both sides of the pipe suck into the middle if so it could well be your turbo that is the problem you would notice the car using more oil than normal
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