Re: the driver side power window on a 1998 Olds Aurora...
The problems is most likely right on the switch i had the same problem with my 97 i went to the wrecker bought all the swiches and the door lights from a wreck the swiches failing is common along with the door lights falling apart at cold temps. hope this helps
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Rear Passenger Power Window Operation
The rear passenger power window switches receive battery voltage through the window lockout control circuit if the window lockout function is disabled. Ground for the rear passenger power window motors is supplied through normally closed up and down contacts of both the rear passenger power window switches and the driver power window switch. When the either rear passenger power window switch is placed in the down position, the power window motor down control circuit is switched to 12 volts and is applied to the down side of the rear passenger power window motor. Since the other side of the rear passenger power motor is connected to ground through the normally closed up contacts of both the rear passenger and driver power window switches, the window travels down. By placing the rear passenger power window switch in the up position, the polarity of the power window motor is reversed and the window travels up.
The rear passenger power windows can also be controlled from the driver power window switch.
Did you try pushing the lock out switch on the drivers master switch ?
Then you have two possibilities. First, most likely. Wires have broken. Open the drivers door and at the front you will see a rubber boot from the frame to the door. This is where the wires like to break. Second would be the master switch failed. I have replaced one or two(in 30 years) that the switch completely died. Usually just one or two windows quit working.
Do the individual door switches work their windows? If so, it would be the driver's side door switch, the master switch, that is bad. The fact that one window works off the driver switch means that power for the windows is at least getting to the master switch, and that the ground for all power windows is good. If the other door switches work, it is just the master switch, not a wiring problem.
There is a control module in each door with connectors. I have already had one where the wiring in the connector was bad. This takes some troubleshooting, but sometimes moving things around while trying to run the windows will should you where the loose connection is.
If you have a multimeter you can go to the underside of the master panel in the drivers door and independently check the switches for voltage or with no power to the switch assembly check for continuity. Good place to start. If you get continuity to through the switch then you need to check power to the window actuators in the doors.
if the motor is working fine and i could be some rivits missing that hold your track up and in place for the window to operated properly check that see if there is any broken pieces lying in the bottom of your door.
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