Onstar told me that the sensor was bad and then i started having problems with ****** then yesterday any gear i put my tahoe in it makes a loud grinding and screaching noise and i can't excelerate
Not likely only thing in throlte I know of is the mass air flow is bad transmission may not shift properly but shouldn’t grind
I doubt it.
The sensor could make the transmission not know when to shift, but not much else.
SOURCE: i have a 2002 Chevy Tahoe. for the past 6 months
without hearing exact noise it is hard to diagnose. these vehicles had a normal cold start knocking noise due to the low friction rings used allowed piston some extra movement. when carbon builds up on pistons it gets worse will go away after about a minute running. it does not affect life of engine or performance. i think this may be noise you hear. or possible it is a lifter leaking down and taking a while to pump up
SOURCE: 1999 Chevy Tracker Transmission Problem
Well it sounds like you have a the vacum for the four weel drive is trying to engage when it is in nutrial and that is where the noise is comeing from. I just think the person you took it to is just trying to make some money off of you
SOURCE: 1996 Chevy Tahoe with Transmission issues
Hello;
The ECM is located inside your passenger kick panel. The codes that your friend pulled relate to the drivetrain portion of the ECM. The controls and solenoids that are causing your shudder are inside the transmission in the valve body. The TCC is probably at fault and locked on. Hope this clears things up. Let me know if you need more help.
Thanks;
Rich
RPM Northwest
SOURCE: have a 97 tahoe when put in reverse transfer case
There is a snap ring at the back of the transfer case that breaks. It can be fixed without removing the transfer case. Remove the rear driveline and the small housing at the back of the case. The snap ring holds the bearing in place.
SOURCE: I have a 2002 Chevy Tahoe making a grinding noise
On the full size, the front actuator is electric, not vacuum.
When in 4wd mode, a switch on top of the transfer case conducts 12
volts out to the actuator. Wire #50 (brown) is the 12v feed, and it
conducts to the light blue wire (#900) to the actuator.
When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no voltage goes to the actuator.
Check voltage at the connector for the front actuator (at the
front differential - it looks like a large bullet that threads into the
front diff.) If it has 12 volts, the actuator is the problem. If it
does not have 12 volts, check the transfer case switch and the power
feed to the transfer case.
I'll assume it is the actuator, if the plug to the actuator is getting 12 volts when in 4wd.
The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated
by voltage. When it heats, the pin in the end swells and pushes a shift
fork in the front differential. The shift fork engages a spline on the
passenger side of the differential, and boom! you have 4WD.
GM offered an upgrade to this actuator that is a motor instead of a
heated device. However, it requires a small harness addition, a spacer,
and a new actuator. It is about a $150 to $200 option.
Good
luck. The actuator is usually the problem 90% of time but recheck all
of the wire harness just to maker sure there is no short before
replacing any parts. The actuator may not be fully engaged or disengaged and the fork to the spline may be what is causing the grinding.
88-UP C/K ACTUATOR UPGRADE
VEHICLE SERVICED: 1994 CHEVROLET FULL SIZE
PURPOSE: IMPROVE AXLE CONNECT ENGAGEMENT TIME
AND
COMPONENT RELIABILITY.
SYMPTOMS: NO FRONT DRIVE AXLE ENGAGEMENT WHEN SHIFTED
INTO 4X4.
If the grinding is only when you apply the brakes, then it's going to be replacing the break pads and rotors and may be the brake caliper if it's damaged from the worn out brake pads. Please keep me posted, be glad to know you got your Tahoe running 100%
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