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Fit 4th gear Release hand brakes on strait floor with open hood and push the car back and Forward to see if the engine engage your gear box if is not your clutch is back to front.if engage press the clutch pedal to make release of the gear,notes mechanical clutch cable or hydraulic system. check Release bearing arm position.
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I'm assuming just by the fact you had a new battery and new starter that sometimes when you turn the key to the start position , nothing happens . Is your vehicle a automatic transmission ? When it doesn't start have checked for battery voltage at the starter solenoid S terminal ? Is there B+ voltage at pins 30 & 86 for the starter relay ? Pin 86 while cranking the engine or trying to crank the engine over . Pin 30 check with key on . Try moving gear selector to neutral . Videos on youtube for basic automotive electrical testing . How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit Find a wiring diagram at www.bbbind.com
Starting System Circuit Description
Voltage is applied at all times to the ignition switch from the IGN A fuse 6 through CKT 242 (RED). When the ignition switch is turned to the START position, voltage is applied to the CRANK fuse 8 through CKT 5 (YEL). From the CRANK fuse 8, voltage is either applied to the clutch pedal position switch (M/T) or the transmission range switch (A/T) through CKT 806 (PPL). When either the clutch is disengaged (M/T) or the transmission is in park or neutral (A/T), voltage is applied to the coil of the starter relay through CKT 1035 (PPL/WHT). Since the starter relay is permanently grounded at ground G105 through CKT 150 (BLK), the starter relay energizes.
Voltage is applied at all times to the starter relay contacts from IGN A fuse 6 through CKT 242 (RED). When the starter relay energizes, the starter relay contacts close, and voltage is applied to the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor solenoid is permanently case grounded, the starter motor solenoid will energize two coils. The pull-in winding coil energizes in order to pull the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. When the contacts close, a plunger on the contacts causes the pull-in winding coil circuit to open. The hold-in winding coil then holds the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. Voltage is then applied to the starter motor from the battery through CKT 1 (BLK) and the closed contacts of the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor is also permanently case grounded, the starter motor will run until the ignition switch is moved out of the START position. When this happens, a spring in the starter motor solenoid moves the starter motor solenoid contacts and the plunger back to the rest position.
check and bleed the clutch system at the slave cylinder and if that dose not improve the clutch operation then replace the master cylinder. If the system is cable operated then replace the cable. If you have removed the clutch to replace it then the clutch plate is probably in the wrong way round and the centre is hitting on the flywheel bolts.
the only abuse is from the dealer-please go to a trans mechanic that has xperienc or send issue to magicmechanic online-hes in florida and a mastertech on any make or model
Try putting it in gear with the engine turned off. If you can and then push the clutch in and start it and drive away Ok The clutch may have been stuck. What's more likly is the clutch master cyclinder has run out of break fluild ( it's next to the break master cyclinder but smaller) It needs to be full of break fluild and ussally (DOT 3) . If it's low top it off with clean fluid and pump the clutch pedel alot to get it working again then go back under the hood and llok to see there it's leaking at. Look int the floor as the peals rod comes into the car to connect to the pedal. If it's coming out ther it'll need and new clutch master cyclinder ( they fail alot) and or on the side oif the transmissin there the lines from the master connects to the clutch slave cylinder its leakingf and it can be replaced too ( common , even more common then the master going bad ) Most shops require if their going to fix the car to change them both.
Look close while someone steps on the clutch. If the fork doesn't move - check to see the cable isn't broken and is in place. If the fork does move - then you put the clutch in backwards. Common one time mistake.
May be the clutch master or slave cylinder. Has the fluid level gone down at all? Have a look around the clutch pedal area for signs of fluid leakage. Good luck, Bob.
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