Thanks for your advise-it helped-also, what would make it run rough with out making the check engine light come on? also, what are the symptoms of a cam shaft going out? could that be it? thanks again so much-it doesnt seem to be running as rough when we took your advice-thanks again, adrienne
First things first: have someone use a scan tool to check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's). If the engine is misfiring, regardless of why(spark plug/fuel injector/ bad camshaft lobe, etc.), a misfire code will be set. These particular codes will begin with PO300. An example is code P0301, indicating cyl# 1, P0302, cyl#2, etc.
Then the diagnostician will need to examine the data for short term and long term fuel trim, oxygen sensor readings, etc. to pinpoint the area needing attention.
The problem could be as simple as a bad spark plug, a bad ignition coil or some other "external" problem.
An engine compression test, a simple diagnostic procedure, will tell you if you have an internal problem, like a bad cam, or valves, or something else which can affect engine compression. I am not familiar with Hyundai having camshaft failure problems. I don't know how many miles you have on your Hyundai, if your under 100,000, I doubt you have internal trouble. You need to make friends with a good auto technician!
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Get in the trunk, take loose the screws, lift the lens holder, change the bulb. Unfortunately, it's not as easy as it sounds. The hole for the lamp position is offset about 4-5 inches. You cannot get to the bulb to remove it without taking loose the lens holder. You have to remove 2 screws to do that, one of which is hidden by a piece of foam tape.
Also it is impossible to remove the lens holder without slipping a finger underneath to turn the bulb holder. I had to cut off a portion of the bulb holder to slip the lens back in. I left the screws out, as it is impossible to put them back after removal. No wonder the dealer wants $50 to change the bulb-it took me about 45 minutes.
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look for marks on the timeing gears there sould be a couple notches. then bring them center to center
SOURCE: 01 hyundai sonata running rough-cont
The mass airflow sensor can definitely cause the problem, but I'm not sure that it's the problem in your case. If you disconnect it, the car's computer doesn't know what amount of air is coming into the engine, so it switches to some default operating parameters that are programmed into the computer. Many times it'll do as you said - it'll limit the RPM for one thing, and for another it'll richen up the fuel delivery (you may see black smoke out the back of the car when you rev it - that's excess unburned fuel, which the engine adds to keep it from being damaged). If you plug in the mass air sensor again and the engine's operation returns to "normal", then you should try getting some Air Intake and Throttle Body Cleaner from any local parts store, spray it into the intake piping, and allow it to dry. You don't want to scrub the sensor element because it could be damaged. You could spray it in with the engine running, which will help additionally because the cleaner will also help to de-carbon the throttle body and backside of the valves as it goes in. It's meant to be burned in the engine, so it won't hurt anything - just make sure that you spray quick bursts and not a long, soaking stream - that can foul the mass air sensor.
Another possibility is that your primary oxygen sensor (the one before the catalytic converter) is starting to go bad. Have you noticed diminished gas mileage at all? That's an indicator as well of either mass air sensor or oxygen sensors. As a long shot, you may have a problem with the coolant temp sensor - if it's reading poorly, it could be telling the computer to fuel the car incorrectly and causing the bucking that you have seen.
I'm not able to see your original posts here (I'm on a friend's computer about two hours from home), but I have them bookmarked at home and will go back through them when I get home tonight. So forgive me if I duplicate some information or ask about something you posted. Have you verified that the plugs and spark wires are up to par? If they're corroded or worn, they could cause rough ignition and make the car shake and stutter.
A final idea of what to look into would be the fuel filter - does the car buck and kick at idle, or when you're on the road driving and give it gas? If the fuel filter is clogged, it'll have trouble supplying the extra fuel needed when you hit the gas to merge into traffic or pass someone.
If it's easier for you, email me at [email protected] and I'll be able to walk you through these ideas more efficiently, as I check the email pretty often:)
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