Question about 2006 Ford F-150 SuperCrew
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Is this a 2004 Heritage / Lightning or a New Body style 2004 ( like the 05-08 MYs ) ?
The fuse is the same one for the power windows.
Might want to pull the overhead console, and test the switch for the rear slider
Posted on Feb 27, 2010
SOURCE: The electric rear sliding window
If the power windows still work, it is not a fuse issue, they share the same fuse ( F401 form the accessory delay relay )
Either the switch or the motor is the cause.
When you press the button to the close direction ( with the window closed ) do the lights dim ( headlamp / interior lamps ) ?
If they do, the window is getting power in that direction, so it could be the switch for the open direction or the motor, or something in the track.
If you pull down the overhead console ( the non rail one is open the sun glass compartment, and pull down on each rear corner, it is held up with spring clips ) the wires to the slider are Red w/ yellow stripe and yellow w/ light blue stripe.
If you apply power to these wires, one direction is open, the reverse is close. Test direct to the wires to know if the slider motor is the issue or the switch.
Check the entire track for obstructions
To get the slider motor, you need to remove the rear seat back
Posted on Jan 25, 2011
yes sounds like you need a motor/regulator need more info go to collisionrepairadvice.com diy or whom to see to save money
Posted on Mar 13, 2009
Most likely the glass has become disconnected from the regulator OR the regulator has broken or become damaged. when you push the window switch 'up' or 'down' you should hear the motor, you may also hear a grinding or crunching noise and the motor slowing down or struggling under load. this is a sign your regulator is most likley damaged and needs to be replaced. If you "roll" the window all the way down and the glass does not move, try push the glass down, if you can freely move the glass up and down, it has become disconnected from the regulator. Either way you will have to take the door panel off and see for sure what the problem is.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
Gary, I had the same problem with my 1999 F150 xcab. I first ran water from a hose over the roof toward the back window. Start at one side and look for water trickles at the top of the window. Don't stop at one place but do the whole window. I found mine leaking at the upper corners and a small trickle at the slider window ends.
I removed my headliner to gain access to the nuts that hold in the window. There are two sets of nuts, one set for the windows molding outside and the other for the window itself. The factory seal was shrinking on the upper corners allowing the water to pour in. The window had to be removed. If you take off the nuts slide a utility knife between the body metal and the window frame, it will release. Be careful not to push too hard on the glass when removing (it may crack the frame and / or the glass itself) just use a steady push and make sure you cut the seal well with your knife.
After you have the window out, clean off the old seal with a plastic scraper so as not to damage the window frame surface, then clean with rubbing alcohol. Do the same with the tucks cab metal where the window seals to the cab. Be sure NOT to scratch the paint. If you so you will need to touch it up before you reinstall the window. Check your window for stress cracks in the frame. You can seal them with the butyl tape you will get at the parts store. If you cna't seal the stress cracks you will have to replace the window. You can also seal sround the outer edge of the window frame between the glass and the inner edge of the window frame that mounts against the truck body. The butyl tape should work for that as well, it is self adhesive.
Go to your local autoparts store and get new sealing material (butyl tape 1/4" or smaller). It comes in a roll. Place the seal around the edge of the window frame, making sure the tape is on the outside edge of the studs, and place the window back in the opening. (hold the window in by opening the slider) and replace the nuts on the inside. Snuggly tighten the nuts starting from the closest to the centers and working your way to the outside corner nuts. Once you have the window reinstalled you can water test your window right away, the sealer is waterproof immediately. If the window is sealed you may reinstall the headliner and any panels you had to remove.
Posted on May 29, 2009
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