2003 Dodge Neon Logo
Posted on Sep 13, 2012
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2005 neon hard brakes engine races

2005 dodge neon Engine raced while driving to 5000 rpm Brakes got hard Now engine sputters and fluxtuates 2000 to 2500 rpm while driving

1 Answer

Alan Conner

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  • Master 359 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 13, 2012
Alan Conner
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Joined: Jan 29, 2009
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While your car is running.......pop the hood and find the throttle body. The throttle body is where your air filter tube/hose goes to the engine. Locate the throttle position sensor which should be on the side of the metal throttle body. This should be the item causing this. If you grab the plug that is on the sensor and wiggle it while the car is running then the engine should rev and act up if thats the problem. If not let me know and I can direct you further. Thanks.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 117 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 08, 2009

SOURCE: where is the camshaft sensor located on a 2005

should be located on one side and below the valve cover near the very front or the very rear of the engine... these things are easy to point out then to try and describe... hope that gives you a starting point

cheers

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Anonymous

  • 87 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 12, 2009

SOURCE: 2005 dodge neon sputtering

first you have to find what codes you have

Robert Debison

  • 412 Answers
  • Posted on May 21, 2009

SOURCE: 2005 Dodge Neon drives fine but the check engine light is on

you have to get scanned for fault codes..possible camshaft sensor if you have starting issues..if car is working fine,could be an evap leak..let me know

Anonymous

  • 163 Answers
  • Posted on May 25, 2009

SOURCE: Car has the hiccups and rough acceleration!

Go to autozone they have a free OBD 2 code reader. Start by finding out what that code is. It might be something as simple as an O2 sensor. Hope this helps.

Anonymous

  • 145 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 10, 2009

SOURCE: CAM SENSOR ENGINE LIGHT. MAX RPM 2000 SOMTIMES

I seen this before first of all don't let the car dealer to BS the way to your money, most of the time is noting wrong whit the sensor it self but is the plug than goes in to the sensor this what i recommend is to buy another sensor from your local auto part store or salvage yard (cheaper) get three pieces of cable and solder directly in to the sensor brake the plastic around the sensor plug if necessary and secure the three cables to it put some silicon in between the solder and the place the new sensor on top of the old one so you now wish wire goes to which and cut and attach one by one. I now this works 100% i have done it my self many times if you need diagrams or sensor locations you can find that at www.alldatadiy.com now if you still have problems unplug all harness especially all the ones than comes from the back of the engine because that engine tends to leak oil on top of the harness if you have wires doing shortcut replace that section you can solder use heat string tube and change the insulation hose they sale those on part stores to put some zip tides on the ends and you will have your car back and will last Note don't let it get to close to the exhaust use zip tides to keep from touching hot areas.

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I have a Toyota Highlander 2005.it will start but when I put on drive it is har to move forward till it died up

the RPM is what matters first , RPM of ENGINE.
in drive it fails and in R, and PRNDL in low too? not told
if drive fails in 1st gear and RPM rises way to high that is a bad tranny
if how ever, the RPM are low in DRIVE that is a weak engine.
easy no, a very simple test.
high rpm (lacking tachometer in cluster) is heard as engine racing fast or some say screaming, super loud, and going nowhere.
brakes all off, tires not hitting a curb
not on ice (LOL) I can't see your or car drive ikt so .... my answer can be dead wrong, me not driving, OK?
ask dad to tell you or grandpa, or any old guy. (drivers)
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Rpm goes 5000 after running a few miles

OMG, its got the Toyota Disease. next is Medial and lawyers.

i think you mean to post with foot off the the throttle, in say DRIVE
the engine races to 5000 RPM , total idle failure,
bad idle controls,
bad idle can happen on any car and can be caused by 2 things.
and is dangerous, (you can cut the key to stop any engine)

1: the throttle is really stuck. check the linkage end to end.
2: the IDLE control valve, ISC is stuck open. clean or replace it.

the cars ECU does all it can to prevent this, but can not help
if there are hard failures. ISC or throttle linkages failure.
there is a throttle return spring too, that can break (very rare)
the throttle bore can get so dirty that it can stick open.
on some cars, NO ENGINE STATE
Speed density engines, (MAP) will race for ANY VACUUM air leaks
to the intake plenum , (cracked hoses, etc)
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2000 dodge neon blows fuse if you take off fast. Otherwise will run if u take off slow. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Myself, I'd open the hood and watch the motor whilst someone holds the brake pedal down tight and races the engine in Drive. See if the engine in moving back an forth or up and down a lot. If the motor mounts are shot, or the car has been in a bad wreck, could be a short in the wiring where the harness goes through the firewall from the engine into the car.
Be blessed.
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Car starts but when u change the gear it dont move

RPM at 800 , in drive
can you race motor in neutral, to 2500 rpm
?
1: does rpm rise above 1500 in drive and no movement, (slip and bad tranny)
2: or holds about 1500 but can move. (brakes frozen , with ice)
try to push car in neutral on flat ground, can you>
no , the brakes are iced.
yes, then engine power is bad.
with A/T trans, you get to first find out.
1: is engine weak.
2: is tranny slipping (races to very high rpm and no go)
3: or brakes ices, (post location so we can see climate, duh?
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My haundai accent is low power

low power to what, wheels or electrics? (dim dash/head lamps?)
if wheels,
is this true in all gears.?
is car A/T ? auto tranny?, is car 4wd or AWD, or what? options
are you in 2WD, (two wheel drive?)

if the engine has low power in any A/T cas?
FSM steps. (under A/T on car diagnosis) yes, RTM.

we do the stall test. (point car in safe direction, dig?)
we set brakes hard (and and foot)
we select DRIVE (or 1s to REV, i do all 3,one by one. )
we then race motor with right foot for 5 seconds max.
we look at the tachometer, it will be like 2000 RPM (stop now)
is it like 1000 RPM then the engine is weak
if much over 2000 rpm the tranny is slipping and is not a weak engine
these numbers are generic, the FSM covers this. read it. RTM
read the manual or get help. there are only 2 ways.

if all this is alien to you, then take it in
any ASE shop can do this.

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