Vehicle cranks over and starts after 4-5 times, check the fuel filter seemed ok blew air through freely, turned the ignition on and fuel pump shot fuel through line. changed spark plugs they looked a little worn and white and lite grey in color. Did not correct problem
SOURCE: 2001 olds alero
sounds like clogged injectors try run chevron techron injector cleaner for 8 bucks it got me out of the same mess b4
SOURCE: 99 olds alero 2.4
I'm sure you have installed a fuel pressure gauge and monitored the fuel pressure while the problem is occurring?Another diagnostic tool which is easy to do,is while the problem is occurring,unplug one sensor at a time beginning with the Mass Air Flow first,.if it uses one.Many times,not always,depending on the sensor,if the sensor is taken out of the picture as far as what the PCM is seeing,like unplugging the MAF,the PCM will substitute the missing sensor output with a generic value that will allow the engine to at least run,and if unplugging for example the MAF,the engine idle speed returns to normal,you know you're onto the problem.You didn't mention if the engine ran ok other than the idle problem.As far as checking for vacuum leaks,i use something like brake cleaner or WD 40,more of a liquid,and it does sound like a vacuum leak.Plastic intake manifolds do develop nearly invisible cracks that open up more with heat.Revsisit the possibility.And as for the PCM,it is possible,but more likely a mechanical problem.Lastly,remove an O2 sensor or two before the catalytic convertor,run the engine and see if anything changes.Cheap way to verify the catalytic convertor is flowing and not restricting engine airflow,as i have seen bad cats cause misfire codes and strange problems.Good luck.
SOURCE: won't start
it could be a bad crankshaft sensor or a bad coil on the aurora on the cutlass there is a kill switch but i dont remember where its located
SOURCE: Vehicle dies while driving down the road.
could it be the A/C pump kicking in. might be boging down the motor or electrical circuit, not letting the injectors get enough power. This could happen if the bearings are going bad in th A/C pump or there is a short in it. Just an idea. sounds like you have done the main components.
SOURCE: My 1993 Oldsmobile cutless ciera wont start
if you are not hearing the buzz the fuel pump is not engaging if you have a test light or a power probe test the power wire going to the pump using the "quick connect" if you have power going in to the pump and have no noise the pump is bad. If you don't have power then test the fuel pump relay and fuse. an easy test is to pull the relay located under the hood and switch with one of the ones next to it turn the key and listen for the pump if you have no noise the relay is more than likely ok check the fuse. To test the fuse use the test light because you can't always see a broken fuse and you want to see if you have power coming in. check all the connections listed above for corrosion and improper space between terminals If I was a betting man I would go with a bad fuel pump judging on the year I assume it has quite a few miles and fuel pumps burn out with use. any time you replace a fuel pump you should replace the fuel filter. this filter almost never gets changed and tends to rust so make sure you have plenty of penetrating oil handy. do not use heat obviously.
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Changed plug wires a found 2 vacuum leaks corrected them and still takes several cranks to start when started the engine rans fine even on the freeway, now idles fine and run good at under 40 mph after 40 it spuders out until lowering the speed. Also if I spray carb cleaner into the airflow duct it starts right away. .
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