The pull cord snapped. Trying to replace it but there is a circlip around an orange pin(?) in the centre of the housing/carrier. Using needle pin pliers seem to be damaging the orange pin, circlip doesn't seem to lift or open, only spins. Any assistance in getting the carrier open to replace the pull cord is greatly appreciated. Snapped on my first day of use aswell.
There are tools to make circlip installation & removal a snap (no pun intended). Two of which are pictured below:
These tools work opposite of each other. The jaws of the one on the left open when the handles are squeezed together and the jaws of the other close when the handles are squeezed together. You would use both; one when you are installing a circlip and the other when removing a circlip. The example has different size tips and for different "angles of attack". There are other manufactures of these tools, too.
I hope this helps & good luck!
SOURCE: My hood won't pop open
Push down on the hood where the latch is, the design is bad, very. If you push on it a few times that will excersice the bad design, and make the hood easier to open.
SOURCE: Cam belt Snapped Honda prelude F22b 2.2 si Auto
did you continue to crank it to start ?
did you hear anything other than usual starter noise ?
you may have gotten lucky if no clanking or clicking noise ---don't try to start it again though
and that is timing belt not camshaft
for future knowledge when considering a vehicle for purchase ---ASK or find out if it's what's called an interference motor or the non interference design ---if you snap the belt on an interference design
alot of twin cams are --but I see a trend from automakers to get away from this --which they should
then albeit some or even major damage can occur ---the 91's civics 1,6 Single over head cam is a non interfernce design --now 1989 or 1992 on well that's another matter
I love my wifes 1991 civic dx ---to date only things ever to fail was the distributor and the timing belt and tensioner ---ps --think about replacing the water pump --front crankshaft seal as well while
you are in there replacing the timing belt ---do a coolant leak down test too --= 5 minutes
to check intake gaskets etc and head gasket --opportune time for a replacement
Yoy can buy the entire engine gasket set generally cheaper that a few individual one and keep
the others for future or give them to a new owner Someday --good 1 st cars --they are capable of 250,000 + easy ---key to longevity ---add an oil cooler with cooling fan set at the right temp with
fan --even better if you live in the mtns like I do
HAWK
yes you can easily , first look at the hole the mirror fits in and you'll see i long thin steel springywire at the topmost section.If you study this wire you will see it just locks the mirrors backplate to the housing.so unspring this steel wire-snap in the mirror- push inwards at the bottom of the mirror so you can get to this wire at the top and with a screwdriver just nudge it back in place to lock it all in,,hope this helped,
SOURCE: my hood cable snapped on my 1990 lesabre and of
If you can pull the grill insert (look for retaining screws) you can reach the underside of the cable hood release and open it with a screwdriver.
SOURCE: the belt in my car
Look around to be sure the belt didn't damage any wiring or the engine fan and also that no pieces of the old belt are wrapped around the harmonic balancer or any other pulley, if not then just replace the belt and you should be good to go. Be sure to route the belt correctly per the routing sticker under the hood or in the owner's manual. Please rate this answer, thanks.
.
2)Remove the cotter pin and large axle nut retainer in the center of the rotor. Remove the two large bolts and nuts attaching the strut to the spindle. Push in on the CV axle where it protrudes through the center of the rotor and make sure it is loose enough to push out. If it is not loose, then put the axle nut on upside down---turn it for only five to six threads. Tap it with a hammer to push the CV axle out of the hub.
3)Turn the steering outward with the steering wheel--if you are working on the driver's side turn the wheel to the left. This gives sufficient room to remove the axle. The other side should be done in the same manner. Remove the axle nut if you used it to hammer the axle out, then grab the extension of the spindle above the rotor and pull it down and toward you as you grab the CV axle and withdraw it from the hub.
4)Put a drip pan under the CV joint at the point it enters the transmission in case there is any fluid loss. Place the head of the pry bar between the transmission and the CV joint. With a quick snap of the tool separate the CV joint from the transmission. There is a small circlip on the end of the CV joint that keeps it in place. Prying it with a quick snap will overcome the friction of the circlip and the CV joint will pop out.
5)Install the new CV axle by inserting the axle end into the transmission first. It will go in as far as the circlip. Back it out ever so slightly--about a half an inch or so, and sharply shove it in past the circlip.
6)Grab the spindle at the extension above the rotor with the holes for the strut. While pulling down and toward you install the outer end of the CV joint. To do this easily bend the CV joint toward the hole in the rotor and push into the hole while rotating the rotor to line up the splines.
7)Install the retaining nut finger tight. While lifting up on the hub and rotor assembly, push the top of the spindle with the holes in it into the strut and insert the bolts and nuts. Tighten them securely. Torque the large retaining nut to 200 foot pounds. Repeat the same procedure to the other side. Put the wheels on and let the car off the jacks.
cheers!!!!!!
186 views
Usually answered in minutes!
Need the make, model and year of car.
×