Question about 2003 Audi A4
My drivers seat is rocking a small bit and after some investigating I found that the studs holding the seat brackets to the rails are loose or worn, I was going to remove them and oversize the holes and install bolts that fitted the holes, do you know the best way to remove these studs?
It is easier to hit it with a welder remove seat from car to ensure you don t start a fire. be sure not to weld the bracket to rail or the seat will not slide.
Posted on Feb 23, 2018
Any comparable car should work. Your car is a 98, so you would have to stick with Audi/VW cars that have the 30v V6 (98-01.5). The 97 and earlier years used an older 12v V6 and those aren't compatible. It's unlikely that the 1.8T models would work either. You'd have to look for A4, A6, and Passat cars in the model range I mentioned, and you may find that if you have a quattro model, your replacement would have to come from a quattro (Audi) or 4motion (VW) car as well. Try to find a donor car with your same drivetrain (30v V6, auto/stick - whichever you have, and 2wd/4wd, whichever you have).
To tell at a glance which engine is which, the 30v has black covers on the valve covers that say "5V" (for five valves per cylinder). The older 12v cars I believe actually say "12v" on them.
Posted on Oct 23, 2008
You don't want to fit that - it's the factory amplifier for the rear speakers (the rears are amped, the fronts are not). You need to run new wires from the head unit back to the new rear speakers so that the speaker-level outputs from the new head unit are used to drive the new speakers.
Posted on Feb 10, 2009
YOU HAVE TO SUPPORT ENGINE WITH A ENGINE SUPPORT BRIDGETOOL 10-222A AND ENGINE SLING TOOL 2024A FROM THE TOP.BECAUSE YOU HAVE TO LOOSEN SUBFRAME MOUNTING BOLTS.SUPPORT THE SUBFRAME.REMOVE OR DISCONNECT THE FOLLOWING FRONT BOLTS NUMBER 2 AND 3.BOLT NUMBER 1 BOLT FROM THE SUBFRAME.SLOWLY LOWER THE FRAME.FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSION LOOSEN THE LEFT TRANSAXLE MOUNT NUT UNTIL IT IS ALIGNED WITH THE LOWER EDGE OF THE BOLT APPROX 4 TURNS.IF EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION LOOSEN THE REAR BOLT FOR THE LEFT TRANSAXLE MOUNT SEVERAL TURNS THEN REMOVE THE FRONT BOLT FOR THE TRANSAXLE MOUNT.AT THE RIGHT TRANSAXLE MOUNT LOOSEN THE REAR BOLT MOUNT SEVERAL TURNS AND REMOVE THE FRONT BOLT.IF EQUIPPED WITH A MANUAL TRANSAXLE BOTH REAR BOLTS ON THE OIL PAN CAN BE ACESSED THROUGH THE OPENING ON THE FLYWHEEL TURN FLYWHEEL AS NEEDED.THEN REMOVE OIL PAN.
Posted on Apr 27, 2010
There are a few reasons why that can happen, most likely the input shaft to the transmission has too much play or wobble in it from a worn out pilot bearing/bushing, the main bearing is worn out, or the synchronizer keys are damaged or worn out and no longer holding, or the shifter rod de-tents or springs are worn out. The only thing that might be repairable without removing the transmission would be worn out shifter de-tents or springs.
Posted on May 02, 2010
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Remove the cover for the pollen filter, and loosen the allen bolt that secures the AC refrigerant lines. Even though you had the refrigerant purged, it may still hiss a little. (at least mine did).
Empty the glove box, center armrest bin, back seat area, etc.
Remove the driver's side knee guard. There are 2 8mm bolts in the fuse panel area, one behind each of the snap in covers, and one down below.
With the handle up as far as you can get it, you should be able to slide the rear part of the center console out over the hand brake handle. Next, remove your shifter knob. Remove Radio head unit. Make sure you have your code handy. Unbolt the center stack trim plate. Unbolt the center stack trim from the carrier unit, which houses the HVAC head, the dash switches etc. On the driver's side of the center stack, down by the driver's foot, there is a cover for a nut, remove the nut. You might have removed it earlier, when you dropped the knee bolster.
On to the dash: Remove the 2 8mm bolts on each end. On the passenger side, remove the airbag module and the 3 brackets you will see under the airbag. One bracket is the one the aribag module attaches to, the other 2 are the L brackets, they hold the air bag to the dash frame. Remove the 8mm bolts on either side of the center stack, they attach the bracket to the frame behind the center stack. Under the center vent area, that same bracket is attached to the dash cover by 3 8mm bolts. On the driver's side, remove the steering wheel, steering column trim. Remove the upper cover for the instrument cluster screws. remove the lower trim for the column pass through. The top screws are accessed from the front, stick your torx driver through the hole along side the column. Remove the instrument cluster. Under the steering column, there are 4 allen head bolts, which hold the column up to the aluminum dash support. Careful here, the column will be free to fall on your head at this point. You can carefully set the steering column on the floor, after you have removed the vacuum line for the cruise control from the brake pedal. While you are at the brake pedal, remove the allen bolt that holds the top of the hinge to the dash support. (I've not done this on a 5 speed car, but I suspect that the clutch will have a similar setup). The pedals will stay where they are, but you need to free the top of the assys. from the dash frame. Time to move the center stack stuff. You've unbolted the center stack and removed the trim already. Now, you need to take the electronics, and pull them out, and move the whole deal off to the side. If you look in at the HVAC box, under the area where the center dash vents are, you'll see a duct running from the HVAC up to the dash. There is a single 8mm nut holding this duct to the HVAC box, and a small harness connector. On top of the dash, there is the sunlight sensor. The trim pice comes right off of it, it's a small piece. There is a phillips screw that holds this sensor to the center vent. Remove the screw, lift the sensor up, and unplug the harness connector. (Once you get the dash off, tape a long zip tie to the connector, it will help you fish it through when you put the dash back together.)
Give it a try... Try to pull the dash cover forward and up. The only thing that holds the windshield side of the dash down are 2 clips. The dash SHOULD come right out now, and you should now be seeing the aluminum frame, the HVAC box, and a ridiculous amount of wiring.
2. The airbag bracketes. The airbag sits on these, the dash will not come out with the bag bolted to these.
3. This is where the dash skin bolts to the frame. Not pictured is the center piece, at spot 3a.
4. The airbag module for the seats. Unbolt it from it's perch.
5. Remove these brackets. They hold the HVAC box in place in the center of the car. It's held in place on the far right side by the aluminum bracket. It's difficult to see in the below image, but behind the far impact absorber (in the red circle), there is a 3 angle bracket, which is held on by that impact absorber, and also bolts to the aluminum cross member, and the HVAC box.. Remove this bracket.
Since you are already on the passenger side, remove the 16mm nut which holds the dash support to the frame of the car. Back on the driver's side, remove the nuts that hold the realy panel etc. to the aluminum. frame. also, there are 2 phillips screws that hold the rest of the electrical bits to the long thin aluminum. arms, way under, by the firewall. On my car, they were broken somehow. it's a good idea to check first, before you yank the aluminum dash support out. Also, remove the 2 bolts, and pop the fuse panel out of the dash support.
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