Question about 2003 Audi A4

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How to remove studs from audi seat bracket

My drivers seat is rocking a small bit and after some investigating I found that the studs holding the seat brackets to the rails are loose or worn, I was going to remove them and oversize the holes and install bolts that fitted the holes, do you know the best way to remove these studs?

Posted by Phil Jones on


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  • Audi Master
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It is easier to hit it with a welder remove seat from car to ensure you don t start a fire. be sure not to weld the bracket to rail or the seat will not slide.

Posted on Feb 23, 2018


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Jeremy Dellow

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SOURCE: Support Bracket power steering AUDI 1998 2.8

Any comparable car should work. Your car is a 98, so you would have to stick with Audi/VW cars that have the 30v V6 (98-01.5). The 97 and earlier years used an older 12v V6 and those aren't compatible. It's unlikely that the 1.8T models would work either. You'd have to look for A4, A6, and Passat cars in the model range I mentioned, and you may find that if you have a quattro model, your replacement would have to come from a quattro (Audi) or 4motion (VW) car as well. Try to find a donor car with your same drivetrain (30v V6, auto/stick - whichever you have, and 2wd/4wd, whichever you have).

To tell at a glance which engine is which, the 30v has black covers on the valve covers that say "5V" (for five valves per cylinder). The older 12v cars I believe actually say "12v" on them.

Posted on Oct 23, 2008


Jeremy Dellow

  • 1586 Answers

SOURCE: Rear speakers in audi 1999 audi a4

You don't want to fit that - it's the factory amplifier for the rear speakers (the rears are amped, the fronts are not). You need to run new wires from the head unit back to the new rear speakers so that the speaker-level outputs from the new head unit are used to drive the new speakers.

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

Jonah Oneal

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SOURCE: hi. how do i remove oil pan of audi a6 2007 2.0


Posted on Apr 27, 2010


  • 834 Answers

SOURCE: My 1988 audi 90 does not hold 2nd 3rd pr 4th gear.

There are a few reasons why that can happen, most likely the input shaft to the transmission has too much play or wobble in it from a worn out pilot bearing/bushing, the main bearing is worn out, or the synchronizer keys are damaged or worn out and no longer holding, or the shifter rod de-tents or springs are worn out. The only thing that might be repairable without removing the transmission would be worn out shifter de-tents or springs.

Posted on May 02, 2010


  • 161 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2001 Audi

check with local tire shop or use a small crestcent wrench if needed.

Posted on Mar 18, 2011

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How do i disconnect seatbelt chime mitsubishi mirage

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On the side of the receptacle (where you would slide the buckle into) are two non-tamper torx screws.
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How to replace 2005 ford freestar rear hub assembly

*Remove the rear tire
*Get yourself an old wire coat hanger (or some bailing wire)
*Remove the 2 - 13mm bolts holding the caliper in place
*Bend the wire/coat hanger and use it to "hang" the caliper on -
basically do not let the caliper hang by its hose.
*Rock the caliper back and forth a little until it comes away from
the caliper bracket, then hang it on your wire.
*Remove the 2 - 18mm bolts holding the caliper mounting bracket
and remove the bracket, set it aside.
*Remove the rotor - You might need to hit it with a rubber mallet to
get it to come lose (rust).
*At this point you should see the hub (the part with the lug studs
sticking out towards you). On the backside of the hub, you should
see 4 studs facing the inward,
*Follow the wire for your wheel speed sensor that is located in the
center of those 4 studs facing inwards (you should see it pretty
clearly) and disconnect it.
*Remove the hub's nuts (15mm if I recall), then swap out your hub
*Reconnect the wire

Use the reverse order to put things back together.

Hope this helps!

Sep 21, 2012 | 2005 Ford Freestar

1 Answer

Hi. i am trying to find blueprint for change the radiator heating on Audi A4 1995 Thank you.

How to install a heating core in a 1996 Audi A4
You'll know it's time to change your heater core when your heat starts smelling like coolant, and the interior windows fog up and even the AC won't prevent it. The good news is, there are only 2 screws that hold the heater core into the HVAC box!! The bad news is, it's going to take you about 4 hours to get to those 2 screws. This writeup is how I did this job, it's not intended to be an exact step by step how to. This job is not for the faint of heart, or small of toolbox.
  • The first step is to take your car to a shop, to have them purge the AC refrigerant. This is REQUIRED, as you have to open the lines into the AC condensor to make this change.
  • Next, move your car to where you are going to be working on it. You will need access to all 4 doors, with plenty of room on either side of the car for parts storage. Try to have the front wheels point streight ahead.
  • Slide the power seats all the way back, and down.
  • Disconnect the battery.
  • Loosen the spring clamps on the heater core hoses, and slide the hoses off of the heater core lines (DO NOT do this with the coolant hot. Let the car sit and cool off fully before starting):
  • tdisline_649.jpg

    Remove the cover for the pollen filter, and loosen the allen bolt that secures the AC refrigerant lines. Even though you had the refrigerant purged, it may still hiss a little. (at least mine did).


    Empty the glove box, center armrest bin, back seat area, etc.

    Remove the driver's side knee guard. There are 2 8mm bolts in the fuse panel area, one behind each of the snap in covers, and one down below.

  • Remove the glove box. With the glove box open, squeeze the sides inward, so they clear the stops. Let it drop down to the floor. Remove the 4 bolts that hold it in. 2 are easy, and obvious, they are on the outside edge, you'll see them when you get the cover off the end of the dash.. The 3rd and 4th one are not.
  • The 3rd bolt is near the plunger switch for the glovebox light.
  • #4 is entirely harder to find.. If you could stick your head into the glovebox cavity, you'd be able to see it. In this picture, the bolt head still has the electrical tape on it that I used to keep the bolt firmly stuck into my 8mm socket.
    tdisline_651.jpg Now, on to the center console. On the B5, to remove the center console, you start in the back seats.
  • Pull the ash tray out. There are 2 13mm nuts, remove those. You do NOT need to remove the one 13mm lock nut, that one holds the hand brake frame.
  • Under the armrest, there is that little port for the build in phone, pop that out, and look under it. There is another 13mm nut to remove.
  • Pop the trim covers off using a very small, clean screwdriver. Remove the 8mm bolts from each side.
  • Under the hand brake handle is a very small locking tab. You'll need your smal screwdriver again.. just carefully pry it down. What this does is lock the handle to the trim and the lever. Pull the handle and trim off of the lever.
  • With the handle up as far as you can get it, you should be able to slide the rear part of the center console out over the hand brake handle. Next, remove your shifter knob. Remove Radio head unit. Make sure you have your code handy. Unbolt the center stack trim plate. Unbolt the center stack trim from the carrier unit, which houses the HVAC head, the dash switches etc. On the driver's side of the center stack, down by the driver's foot, there is a cover for a nut, remove the nut. You might have removed it earlier, when you dropped the knee bolster.
    On to the dash: Remove the 2 8mm bolts on each end. On the passenger side, remove the airbag module and the 3 brackets you will see under the airbag. One bracket is the one the aribag module attaches to, the other 2 are the L brackets, they hold the air bag to the dash frame. Remove the 8mm bolts on either side of the center stack, they attach the bracket to the frame behind the center stack. Under the center vent area, that same bracket is attached to the dash cover by 3 8mm bolts. On the driver's side, remove the steering wheel, steering column trim. Remove the upper cover for the instrument cluster screws. remove the lower trim for the column pass through. The top screws are accessed from the front, stick your torx driver through the hole along side the column. Remove the instrument cluster. Under the steering column, there are 4 allen head bolts, which hold the column up to the aluminum dash support. Careful here, the column will be free to fall on your head at this point. You can carefully set the steering column on the floor, after you have removed the vacuum line for the cruise control from the brake pedal. While you are at the brake pedal, remove the allen bolt that holds the top of the hinge to the dash support. (I've not done this on a 5 speed car, but I suspect that the clutch will have a similar setup). The pedals will stay where they are, but you need to free the top of the assys. from the dash frame. Time to move the center stack stuff. You've unbolted the center stack and removed the trim already. Now, you need to take the electronics, and pull them out, and move the whole deal off to the side. If you look in at the HVAC box, under the area where the center dash vents are, you'll see a duct running from the HVAC up to the dash. There is a single 8mm nut holding this duct to the HVAC box, and a small harness connector. On top of the dash, there is the sunlight sensor. The trim pice comes right off of it, it's a small piece. There is a phillips screw that holds this sensor to the center vent. Remove the screw, lift the sensor up, and unplug the harness connector. (Once you get the dash off, tape a long zip tie to the connector, it will help you fish it through when you put the dash back together.)
    Give it a try... Try to pull the dash cover forward and up. The only thing that holds the windshield side of the dash down are 2 clips. The dash SHOULD come right out now, and you should now be seeing the aluminum frame, the HVAC box, and a ridiculous amount of wiring.
    tdisline_653.jpg Legend:
    2. The airbag bracketes. The airbag sits on these, the dash will not come out with the bag bolted to these.
    3. This is where the dash skin bolts to the frame. Not pictured is the center piece, at spot 3a.
    4. The airbag module for the seats. Unbolt it from it's perch.
    5. Remove these brackets. They hold the HVAC box in place in the center of the car. It's held in place on the far right side by the aluminum bracket. It's difficult to see in the below image, but behind the far impact absorber (in the red circle), there is a 3 angle bracket, which is held on by that impact absorber, and also bolts to the aluminum cross member, and the HVAC box.. Remove this bracket.

    Since you are already on the passenger side, remove the 16mm nut which holds the dash support to the frame of the car. Back on the driver's side, remove the nuts that hold the realy panel etc. to the aluminum. frame. also, there are 2 phillips screws that hold the rest of the electrical bits to the long thin aluminum. arms, way under, by the firewall. On my car, they were broken somehow. it's a good idea to check first, before you yank the aluminum dash support out. Also, remove the 2 bolts, and pop the fuse panel out of the dash support.

    Jun 13, 2011 | 1996 Audi A4

    1 Answer

    How do i change out the dash speakers on a 1992 wrangler?

    There are 4 studs on each side that the speaker mounts to. On these studs there are single thread nuts that have to be removed. On the passenger side all you have to do is get your hand up behind the dash and feel around the speaker for them. They come off easily as long as you don't inadvertently mix up the righty tighty/lefty loosy rule.
    The driver side is a bit more of a hassle. You have to remove the e-brake mounting bracket( 2 nuts on the engine side of the firewall and 1 bolt holding it to the instrument panel) and somehow get your hand past a big bundle of wiring to reach the speaker mounting studs. I found it easier to remove the dash mounting bolts on the drivers side so I could pull the dash back a bit and get more room.
    I would also recommend replacing the speakers with water resistant marine speakers and either use a spacer between the speaker and dash or cut out the existing grill so the tweeter has clearance.

    Dec 09, 2010 | 1992 Jeep Wrangler

    1 Answer

    Removing front rotar

    rotar doesn't contain the studs, the plate/hub behind the rotar does - you need a 32mm socket to undo the axle nut to then get at the hub (need a flat screw driver to lever the nut tang up first). If it's seized on put the rotar and wheel back on (leave the axle nut off) and gently rock it in a top-bottom motion (not radially or axially) to free it up. you can then gain access to the hub and studs. put the wheel nuts back on the studs 2 -3 turns so that you have a 'seat' and using a bolt with a smaller dia to punch them out

    May 08, 2010 | 1991 Subaru Legacy

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    How difficult is it to cange the front rotors?

    depending if you have the tools to do the job and pb blaster lock tite and white and dark grease for a beginer it has a rating of 7-8. if you work on cars and know what your doing, then its easy.. first thing is to remove the calapers then remove the calaper mounting bracket spray around the studs and bolts with pb blaster also around the hub and tap around the whole area around rotor dont hit the studs (with hammer) to break the rust buildup this should break rotor free then you may want to clean the rust off so that the rotors seat properly remove and clean new rotors with brake cleaner to get off the film off them (shipping rust retardent) and wipe. spray bolt holes to clear any rust left while removing old rotor and braket and dry. place a small ring of lock tite on bolts holding caliper brackets and let stand till harden or almost hard. replace new rotors install bracket/s and bolts (torq to ? 80foot lb) while replacing rotors replace brake pads, replacing just rotors will over heat new rotors in spots and warp rotors!!! make sure you pull the pins that retain the calipers to the bracket and add light coat of white grease to pins so calipers slides easy and evenly

    Jan 21, 2010 | 2003 GMC Envoy

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