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START THE ENGINE AND LET IT WARM UP WITH THE RADIATOR CAP OFF. DO THIS FOR ABOUT 5 MIN. REPLACE THE RADIATOR CAP AND REMOVE THE OVERFLOW TANK CAP. LEAVE IT OFF FOR ANOTHER 5 MIN. THE SYSTEM WILL BURP ITSELF.
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make sure the engine is cold , drain the coolant from the rad ,there will be a drain tap/bolt on the bottom of the rad ,be sure to us a container to collect the fluid as should'nt be left to run down a drain etc as is very toxic,disconnect the top and bottom hoses, there are usually two bolts either side of rad loosen these, rad may lift out if not remove the bolts and lift the rad away and out of vehicle , if the cooling fan is attached to the rad remove , will be obvious what bolts need undoing, replace this fan unit on new rad ,then refit new rad , reverse of removal , dont for get to check the drain plug is closed on the new rad , refill cooling system by adding coolant to the expansion tank, run the engine and bleed the air from system ,there will be bleed screws at various points around cooling hoses etc , allow engine to cool 1 hour min ,check coolant level top up and repeat bleeding process as neseccary good luck very straight forward job , keep me posted
if no air in the system from internal heater or other places
new thermostat and radiator cap
good firm coolant hoses
old school air bleed you fill coolant system with motor running
heater on in the car and thermostat open burp the hoses until bubbles are no more
if still no better
what about these possibles
faulty coolant temp sender
head gasket failed
clogged radiator
cooling fans not spinning fast enough
or not coming on soon enough
there should be no air in the cooling system and the system can be bled by using a pressurising equipment . Ensure that the thermostat is placed in the motor the right way with the body facing the hot water (head or block). Air defeats the purpose of having a pressurised cap and system.
Did you re-fill radiator when engine cool, rad cap off and heater turned on? If not, do it with heater turned on and allow engine to get up to operating temperature and rad fan comes on once or twice, indicating coolant returning to rad for cooling . Keep an eye on coolant level and top up as required, then after fan has come on and off a couple of times, put your rad cap on properly and top up coolant return bottle to proper level. This should bleed out the air and get heater working properly again.
the most commen problem with no heat is an air lock in the cooling system
when the vehicle is cold remove the rad cap
then there is a air bleed screw on the coolant pipe that goes across the front valve cover open the bleed screw about 3/4 to a full turn
use a funnel and over fill the rad into the funnel (this will make a mess)
make sure you have a steady streem of coolant coming out of the bleeder when you have a steady streem close the bleeder then there is a bleeder screw on the thermostat hosing open it and when you have a steady streem from it close that one then put the rad cap back on
and start the vehicle put your heat controls on VENT ,HOT AND HIGH BLOWER SPEED
run the vehicle and make sure you have HOT AIR COMMING OUT OF THE VENTS NOT WARM if its just warm then shut the engine off and open the bleeder on the pipe not the T-STAT HOUSING
keep repeating till you get HOT AIR COMMING FROM THE VENTS
top up the over flow bottle the rad will be fine
hope this helps
You have air in the system, you will need to work that out, some engine have cooling systen bleeders, if not loosen a heater hose to bleed air from the system.
Flush rad & change coolant & thermostat. Check operation of rad fan, & make sure it is coming on when engine reaches normal operating temperature. Be sure to bleed air out good when refilling rad/cooling system. Start engine & turn heater on when refilling & let rad fan come on & off at least 2 or 3 times before putting cap back on rad, and refill rad as needed as you do this. then fill return bottle to proper level & see what happens.
With engine cool, remove rad cap, top up coolant to 1" or 2" from top in rad. Start engine & turn your heater on, (not defrost) and let it run like that until it gets up to normal operating temperature. Keep an eye on fluid level in rad, & top up as needed. Let it run, until your rad fan comes on, & off, 2 or 3 times at least. That's telling you that the thermostat has opened & hot coolant from engine has returned to rad for cooling. Every once in a while while your waiting, rev the engine slightly for a few seconds, just to assist the circulation & help bleed air out. Feel the heater now & you should feel hot air coming out. Top up rad to 1'' or 2", put cap back on, all the way, top up your return bottle to proper mark/level, and you should be good to go.
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