Question about Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1991 Buick Regal wont turn over.

The engine turned over first try every time until about a month ago when it got up to operating temp it would not restart till it cooled down. I noticed a problem w/ the cooling fans changed a fan and relay, then the temp. sensor, it was never overheating though. At operating temp it stalls while driving. I have checked the coil pack and the icm. prior and came down to the crank sensor replaced that and here's the problem, After the crank sensor replacement when the car first started it had a lifter noise and a whirring (bearing?) sound. I shut the car off right away, not to operating temp. even, but it wont start now, at all, there is no spark at the coil pack once again. Before I changed the crank sensor there was no spark at the coil just when the car was at operating temp. and it had stalled or I had shut the car off. Any suggestions would be much appreciated . :) It turns over but doesn't engage. I can hear the fuel pump working. Starter, Battery and Alternator are fine. Battery and alternator are new too.

Posted by mmm0814 on

Ad

1 Answer

Fred Van Hoy

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    New Friend:

    An expert that has 1 follower.

    Corporal:

    An expert that has over 10 points.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.

  • Contributor
  • 15 Answers

Sounds as if you have two problems the first is mechanical problem in the engine witch is causing the noise you are herring and engine to stall but if you did not here this till after you changed the crank sensor you may be lucky as that may be causing both the stall from before witch happens when they heat up and when you installed the new one if it is not set far enough away from the crank it may have hit it and that is the noise you heard and why it will not start back up pull sensor and see if end has damage.
hope this helps

Posted on Jul 30, 2012

Testimonial: "He was so right! Thank you "fvanhoy" for your solutions. :)"

  • 2 more comments 
  • mmm0814
    mmm0814 Jul 30, 2012

    Thank you, yes after the crank shaft postioner was changed is the only time my motor ever sounded bad. How far out does that need to set?

  •  Fred Van Hoy
    Fred Van Hoy Jul 31, 2012

    probably about 5 to 16 thousands away from crank you should be able to get those specs from the parts store or call a shop most will give you this info for free

  • mmm0814
    mmm0814 Aug 01, 2012

    Thank you, do you know if there is a way to gap this crank sensor without purchasing the specialty air gap tool?

  •  Fred Van Hoy
    Fred Van Hoy Aug 01, 2012

    What you can do is turn the crank till the little nub's on the plate that the crank sensor uses for reading the reference point to the opening where the crank sensor goes and measure from the nub to the outside of the hole where the sensor bolts down and the cut a gasket out of cardboard or other thin material to move the sensor out away from the nub so you have the gap you need. Hope this Helps

×

Ad

5 Related Answers

Robert Hirst

  • 833 Answers

SOURCE: cooling fans will not run

Most GMs use a relay package to turn on the fans. That is often controlled through a processor package. Very complicated...if yours is one of them. You will need Mitchell's manual or equal to trace this to see if you have all the signals.

Posted on Jun 19, 2008

Ad
muttandjeff

Allen Neal

  • 359 Answers

SOURCE: 1993 chev lumina euro 3.1 "t"

recheck valve adjustment and timing as well as vacuum leaks

Posted on Dec 11, 2008

Anonymous

  • 508 Answers

SOURCE: car wont start, changed coils, batt, alternator, CPS,

check timing belt!! good luck!!

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

ftw1952

frank thomas wilson

  • 10319 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1991 buick regal stalls and shut off after warming up

egr valve is not opening up when the engine reaches it normal operating temperture

Posted on Feb 07, 2010

Zaraki

  • 834 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 silverado 4.3 cranks but

First check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

To replace the distributor follow this procedure;

The ignition timing is not adjusted with a timing light or with the engine running, and to set the ignition timing follow these procedures.

There is a mark or notch on the distributor housing that the rotor should be pointing to when the engine is on top dead center. This "static" timing is all that matters and the computer will be able to control the timing as long as the ignition rotor is in that position when the engine is at top dead center.

Removal;

1. With the engine at top dead center.

2. Look under the distributor cap and find where the number one terminal runs under the distributor cap, and where that position on the distributor cap corresponds with the distributor housing, and it should match up to a mark or a notch on the distributor housing indicating the number one position.

3. With the engine on top dead center the ignition rotor should be pointing to the number one mark or notch that is on the distributor housing, Then make a reference mark of the position that the ignition rotor is pointing to (out on the engine or firewall) and the more precise you mark the position, the easier the installation of the new distributor will be. This will be reference mark #1.

4. Remove the distributor lock down bolt, (the lock down clamp will most likely be attached to the distributor and if so it should not be removed from the distributor) then slowly lift up on the distributor about three inches and note the direction that the ignition rotor turns, and when the ignition rotor stops turning then mark the position that the ignition rotor is pointing to (out on the engine or firewall) and then lift the distributor striaght up and out, and remove the gasket or any left over gasket material from the intake manifold. The more precise you mark the position the easier it will be to install the new distributor and an assistant might be helpful. This will be reference mark #2

Once the distributor has been removed it is important that the engine does not get cranked over by the starter or the crankshaft turned at all, or the reference marks will become useless.

Installation;

Be sure that the new distributor is complete with a new module and that there is a new gasket in place on the distributor.

1. Lower the distributor with gasket down into the distrbutor well and align the ignition rotor with the #2 reference mark and when the distributor gear engages the drive gear on the camshaft then the ignition rotor should turn to the #1 reference mark as the distributor sets all the way back down flush on the intake manifold.

2. Install and tighten the lock down bolt, and If the distributor is properly installed then the ignition rotor should be pointing to the #1 reference mark and the #1 position on the distributor housing with the engine on top dead center.

Replace the distributor cap and connect the spark plug wires, and see if the engine will start, if the engine does start and the check engine light does not come on (assuming that it was not on before) then the distributor is properly installed and there is no further timing requirements.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.



a4e111e.jpg

71a37c7.jpg

91bcf9e.jpg

Posted on Jul 31, 2010

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

When car gets to normal operating temp it shuts down will not restart until cools off


Not necessarily. There was a re-call on the cooling system a few years ago. Check with your mechanic about that. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Digiprog3

Dec 20, 2012 | 2001 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

When my 1991 Isuzu trooper reaches normal oper. Temp. It dies and I have to wait till it cools down and it will start right back up and go some more till it reaches temp. Again. Runs great cold but when at...


model with coil fitted check this as when they over heat they stop sparking. also the spark plugs and leads, up graded model with electronic timing check the dis pack and then the spark plugs and the leads, leads can check with meter, if hard or stiff leads replace them as this can mean they will crack with engine movement. check spark plug gap to your recommended speck for your engine code. coil should be replaced every 5 years or depending on your driving times these can very depending on coil fitted. dispak type if it has any cracks in the casing replace as water could of damage the internal coil.

Dec 21, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2004 Chevy cavalier 2.2 ecotec engine. when the temperature gauge reaches 195 deg the car starts to sputter in about 5 mins after it shuts down and wont restart till the temp drops to 140 deg. I...


Hi I will try and help u if i can
Usually a shut down problem which happens at temperature is caused by an electronic part
breaking down.
I would suspect the coil pack ( usually a crack creates an open circuit, that is the crack opens up
when in your case 195 deg and closes back up when cooled down
I`m not totally familiar with your gm product but i know they used to have a problem with an egnition module ( but not sure if this is fitted to your car )
I hope i have been of some help to you
John ( South Wales UK )

Aug 10, 2011 | Chevrolet Cavalier Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Engine stalls at operating temp. and will not restart until cooled down, when started will sometimes backfire ?


sounds like your auto choke is stuck on had the same problem with a honda i worked on would be fine untill got to running temp then would run like **** and stall out and wouldnt start again till cold

Mar 04, 2011 | 1990 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight

1 Answer

Have a 1998 Chrysler Concorde with 134,000 miles. About 2 months ago it started stalling intermitently. Would stall and I could restart immediately. Now it stalls once every trip at a certain engine temp....


your car problem is overheating, some car model like yours is designed to shut-down engine when engine temp. rise so as to avoid frying the engine. your engine overheating problem is attributed by one of these factors:
1. check or refill radiator water if less
2.check radiator cooling fan operation-if damaged pls. change or check the electrical system.
3. damage/ worn water pump-if damage pls. change the water pump.
4. check for any coolant leak somewhere the coolant line-pls. rectify the leak.
5.worn coolant reservoir cap- change if damaged.
6. clogged radiator-if clogged pls. change it.
7. damaged thermostat valve.

May 06, 2010 | 1998 Chrysler Concorde

4 Answers

Why does the fan keep running on 2005 jetta after turning off


You are talking about the thermo electric cooling fan, its operation is independent of the car's electical system. It is switched on and off by the engine temperature. When you park, the engine heat soaks upward to heat the thermostat turning the fan on. It will run until the engine cools down and the thermostat switches it off. Quite normal operation.

Apr 19, 2010 | 2007 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5 Sedan

2 Answers

1996 Blazer w/V-6 Vortec dies at op-temp. will restart. ongoing


I WOULD STILL CHECK THE FUEL PRESSURE.IF ALL IS GOOD.ENGINE GETTING TOO HOT WILL SHUT OFF.ALSO A LEAKING INTAKE GASKET WILL CAUSE STALLING WHEN HOT.

Jul 26, 2009 | 1996 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

1998 Cadillac DeVille Overheats


The cooling fans will not come on until 225 degrees. Normal temp is around 199-215. Sitting still in traffic most will inch up around 220 or so. When you turn ac on it turns the fans on and may cool down engine, Check fan operation.

Jun 16, 2009 | 1998 Cadillac DeVille

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

156 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Cars & Trucks Experts

Marvin
Marvin

Level 3 Expert

85239 Answers

john h

Level 3 Expert

23504 Answers

Brad Brown

Level 3 Expert

18519 Answers

Are you a Car and Truck Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...