06 camry 2.4 engine removal

Any vehicle with a rear main seal leaking, you must remove the transmission if the seal is one piece, goes in from the back. you'll need remove the flywheel/flex-plate to change the seal. Older versions you had to drop the oil pan and the rear main cap to replace a 2 piece seal. Take everything off the top of the trans to access the top mounting bolts and remove them. Support the engine and remove the trans mount. Pull the cover off the torque converter and remove the flex-plate to torque converter bolts then remove the rest of the trans bolts at bell housing and pull the trans out. You can use a transmission jack or like I do, just set the trans on top of a metal case on top of a barrel so you don't have to drop it all the way out. Just slide it out far enough to change the seal and put it back together.

If you are talking about the two bolts on top of the bell housing. You will need a three foot extension with a swivel and 15 mm socket. To access the top bolts you need to put your jack with a piece of wood under the transmission pan, jack it up just enough so you can remove the rear cross member then slowly lower your jack supporting the trans. Until you see those top bolts approx. Three inches assuming you have removed all the other bolts on bell housing and the three bolts that attach the flywheel to the pumpkin.

Have ya removed the bolts holding torque converter normally have to remove one by onehole in bell housing

remove trans bolts and slide trans back to gatn acces to fly wheel bolts u dont have to fully remove the trans.

Did you remove the torque converter bolt's from the fly wheel, should be 4. You will have to turn the motor by hand to remove all the bolt's.

this is an older rear wheel drive car you don't need to remove motor, i would along with these instructions get a repair manual (Haynes) for reference purposes, jack up the front of the car , support on frame with jack stands, remove battery cables, remove starter, all electrical plugs on tranny, then remove access panel for torque converter bolts located at lower front of bell housing, after access plate removal rotate torque converter to the point where you can not only unscrew converter bolts but also remove drain plug to drain converter. To stop converter from turning during removal of nuts you must lodge a large screwdriver between the flywheel gear teeth and the engine block at an appropriate location ( at starter location usually) after removing all torque convert.nuts jack up slightly or support trans with trolley jack and 1 ft length of wood under pan, proceed to remove all bell housing bolts except for the top one, remove that one last after removing the drive shaft of course, also make sure you remove the transmission crossmember after jacking up trans slightly. the idea is to allow the tranny to only be attached at the end of removal by the one top bell housing bolt and supported by the trolly jack and two bye four or better 3/4 in thick 1 ft X 1ft plywood board after unscrewing the last bolt the trans. can be pulled back away from the motor and lowered down. the installation is reversal but aligning the torque converter to engine can be problematic sometimes (patience and strength) you can do it!

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Drain the transaxle fluid.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Negative battery cable. On vehicles equipped with an air bag, wait at least 90 seconds before proceeding Battery Air cleaner assembly Throttle cable from the throttle body Cruise control actuator cover and connector, if equipped Ground wire Starter Speed sensor connectors, direct clutch speed sensor, and the park/neutral position switch connector on the transaxle Solenoid connector on the transaxle Shift control cable Oil cooler hoses Front side transaxle mounting bolts Front engine mounting bolts Oil cooler line mounting bolts from the front frame Upper transaxle to engine mounting bolts
   
   Fig. Tie the steering rack to the engine support fixture components, as shown-Avalon and Camry
   Front exhaust pipe Engine side covers and undercovers Both halfshafts Front side engine mounting nut Rear side engine mounting bolts (remove hole plugs) Left side transaxle mounting bolts Steering gear housing Front frame assembly Rear end plate mounting bolts Torque converter cover Torque converter retaining bolts Remaining transaxle mounting bolts Transaxle
   

may depend on your engine but the last one i did I was actually able to take all the trans bell housing bolts out exept the top 2(leave them just loose) and of course all the converter bolts. then the trans separated away from the motor just enough for me to reach the flywheel bolts and get them out and do a slip and slide move. no trans removal necessary. tight yes--but still worth it

Its a front wheel drive just separate the transmission. Loosen all the bolts around the transmission bell housing and loosed the converter from the flywheel. The engine will come out and leave the tranny in the car. very easy. Good luck

I just changed a 2.4 in my 96. I pulled the whole thing because I coudn't get at the converter to flywheel bolts. After reading further, I saw information to pull the trans out through the drivers wheel well without the engine. They removed the starter to access the flywheel bolts to the converter.
I haven't tried it but it would make sense and it does make it a lot easier. Without the trans attached, you wouldn't need to remove the master cylinder or beat the sh-t out of the battery tray to get the think out.