My car is a 2002 Nissan quest 143K. I had a tune up because it had been 2 yrs since i had one and my car was starting rough day after rain. I took it to my regular mechanic he changed my plugs, wires, rotor, cap and gas filter. Day later my car is struggling for power and the rpm bounces when idling. Eventually I got a check engine light. Mechanic said it was the o2 sensor. He replaced that and cleaned the injectors,throttle body and the iac valve. When he gave me the car back and i drove it for a little white did the same thing it did the same thing. he told me to drive it couple days and see if it corrects itself. got the check engine light that same day and brought it back the next. He has had the car 3 days so far and from what it sounds like the engine is still struggling for power. I suggested he recheck the plugs cause my car was running strong before the tune up. Any suggestions.....?
Does this mechanic have a dianostic scan tool for your vehicle, so he can read the trouble codes.And he can reset the mil light using the scan tool.It is possible for somebody to not be paying enough attention to what they are doing and gap the plugs wrong or drop one and damage it.But if he did that and still put them in then you might want to find a new mechanic.It should not have went back to you if it still had a problem the first time.
he used a diagnostic tool to find out wat the problem was. it was the o2 sensor but even after cleaning the throttle body, iac valve, injecters and replacing the o2 sensie the service light came back on and indicated again the o2 sensor was the problem. i dont know what he hasbrried other than what i posted but it seems like he still getting same up and down at idle rpm and struggling engine and service light.
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SOURCE: Misfire
One question, have you replaced the ECTS (Electronic Cooling Temperature Sensor)? These cause no end of different seemingly unrelated problems on Saturns. Peice is about ten bucks and is an easy install. Just search on youtube for a how-to video. Even if that's not the problem it is reccommended to replace this peice just the same as they ALL end up going bad at some point.
If that's not a fix, start pulling plugs. Check to see if they're correctly gapped and if they have any damage/corrosion. If you're running Platinum plugs, immediatly change to a copper plug as Platinums have no place in these motors. Most people have the best luck with NGK copper.
Check to make sure that your plug wires haven't been crossed. This sounds like a plug or wire issue most likely so it has to be in that family, if the plugs are good, wires good and not crossed, sensors are fine, then time to replace your coil packs. If you've replaced everything up to the coil packs then that is most likely the cause of your dillema.
SOURCE: falls on it's face when
Slimsoul, a bad fuel pressure regulator would cause a problem similar to this. You may already know this but a fuel pressure regulator kinda works backwards from the way you would think. When your car is at idle it produces the most amount of vacuum which power things like brakes. As your RPM's increase your vacuum drops. When a fuel pressure regulator recieves 0 vacuum it fully opens and allows the most amount fuel to flow through. So, you mash on the gas from idle and the car stumbles from lack of fuel. A common cause of this is because the regulator diaphram has a hole in it, which causes it to open slowly. There is a very simple test for this that, yes, even you can try at home. I'm assuming your corvette is a C4 (84-96). Open the hood, stand on the passengers side, and stare towards the back of the plenum just in front of the distributor. Now look underneath the upper plenum, and attatched to the lower manifold at an approximate 45 deg angle is a round piece that kinda resembles a top hat. This is your regulator. There should be a hard black plastic vacuum line attatched to the regulator. Now for the tricky part, unplug it and crank the car. If the regulator is in fact the problem, this should at least improve if not eliminate your problem. If it does not, my next step would be to check your fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge available at Autozone for around $40. A TPI motor needs at least 40 psi to operate properly. Back to the regulator, if it is in fact the problem your going to have to replace the diaphram in the regulator which is somewhat of a pain. You have to pull off the throttle body and upper plenum to get to it. Additionally the FPR is secured with special security torx bits, I believe its a T5. The plenum runner gaskets and throttle body gaskets will need to be replaced if they're original. If you're not somewhat handy I would suggest taking it to a shop to do the job.
SOURCE: ENGINE VIBRATION AT IDLE BUT OK WHILE DRIVING.
Could be any one, or more, of the following -
Plugged injector
Bad plug wire
Fouled plug
Crossed plug wires (hard to tell sometimes on V-8s that run smooth anyway)
Vacuum leak
Leaky EGR valve
Shifted timing sensor
Scan engine for codes and proceed from there.
There is a product called RXP (available here in Texas) that will clean up an engine and gas. Its pretty awesome stuff, and this coming from a person who doesn't really believe in additives.
SOURCE: 1989 GMC 2500 5.7L - engine surges and stalls at idle. Loses power at cruising speed.
Wow you have replaced a lot of stuff. Lets go back to the Fuel pump. When you replaced it did you replace the hose between the pump and the sending unit. These are common for splitting. Have you hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to check what pressure you have? It should be real close to 13 psi and should raise to at least 18 or 19 when you pinch off the return line.
SOURCE: Chevy truck '02 surges between 45 and 55 mph
you should change the tps( throtal position sensor) this can cause that problem
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