Have changed rad in the last year also the intake gasket ,thermostat and water pump. no water comes out of the bypass bleeder when attempting to bleed the system.
Are you sure the radiator and overflow tank are full of coolant ?
SOURCE: lower intake manifold gasket leaking 02 Olds Silhouette
This is basicly a very time consuming job rather than a physically hard one to complete. In order to replace the gasket you must remove the intake plenum,throttle body, and misc. vacuum hoses. The wiring harness connections must also be disconnected. Finally the intake manifold is exposed. The bolts holding the manifold to the block are removed exposing the leaking gasket. After removing the push rods and placing them in the correct order to be replaced the gasket and sealants can be removed. Finally replace everything in reverse order. Be sure to consult a GM manual for correct bolt torch specs. The correct specs for the manifold bolts usually come with the gasket. Make sure to change your oil a few times after this job in case any coolant entered the block. Also,change the thermostat and the oil seal on the distributor half shaft cap while you have everything off. Good Luck
SOURCE: Olds silhouette heater blows cold air
as long as the engine temperature is normal, i would suspect a clogged heater core, the dex-cool antifreeze is notorious for building up deposits in cooling system. have heater core flushed first to see if it makes any difference
SOURCE: 02 Alero not overheating, no heat
When you say not leaking antifreeze has your coolant level gone down at all? and is it that you have seen no leaks where you park it? What worries me is you can smell it when warming up, have you felt the interior floors to see if damp and do you get any condensation if put blower onto screen, if so then heater matrix is leaking if not could be down to headgasket and/or cylinder head leak.
SOURCE: 2000 Intrigue Oldsmobile over heating
I have a 2000 Intrigue that had the same overheating problem only when it gets below 0 degrees. I read many forums on this matter and it only got me more confused. It had thumping in the heater hose lines when it got hot. So here is what I did to cure the problem....I first installed a new thermostat that I purchased from NAPA Auto-$43. I noticed that it has a small one way valve built into the housing. I took a 1/8 inch drill bit and drilled down through the hole to make it a 2 way hole so coolant could get through (and air could escape when bleeding the system). I then took off the purge tank and flushed it out with hot water to get all of the crud out of it. When I reinstalled all of the hoses and thermostat, I coated the gasket seal and inside the hoses with high temp RTV. I also took off those wierd squeeze clamps and used the screw type hose clamps. I suspected that it was drawing air into the system when it cooled down and with the RTV and new clamps, that problem was eliminated! I reinstalled the surge tank and filled with 50/50 mixture of Dex Cool, then started the engine. I opened the bleeder valve on the top right corner of the radiator and left it open until a good steady stream of antifreeze came out. I kept putting antifreeze into the surge tank until it came up to the full cold mark. Then I left the pressure cap off and drove the car for about 10 miles at normal speed. During this time I had the heater running on high. When I stopped the car I added enough antifreeze to bring the surge tank level to full hot and put the pressure cap on. I then drove it for another 10 miles or so and checked the level, right on the full hot line. By the way, I also put on a new pressure cap. For $7 it was worth the money. I drove the car around for about another hour and the temp gauge only got up to a little over 1/4! Oh, I also put a new serpentine belt, just because the old one had 60,000 miles on it. So for $43 (new thermostat), $7 (new pressure cap), $12 (more Dex Cool), $24 (new serpentine belt), and $20 (new clamps, High Heat RTV, etc) the problem is fixed!! The reason I drilled out the hole in the thermostat housing was for air to escape when bleeding the system. This was the one and only time I have had problems with overheating, just in real cold temps, and I hope it never comes back! So for a little over $100 (MUCH less than a garage would charge!), you can do the same thing with a few tools.
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