SOURCE: Gas Tank Removal
The first thing you want to do is disconnect the battery to avoid any sparks..make sure you know your radio code before diconnecting the battery.second: Raise the rear of the car and secure it with jack stands,locate the connection point for the fuel line,just above the rear end assembly.Remove the two c-clip connecting the hose to the gas tank. disconnect the feed and return line allowing the remaining fuel to drain into a container. Once the fuel is drained, proceed to the trunk, remove spare tire and carpeting. disconnect the overflow seal from the filler neck,which will remain on the neck and come out with the tank . Disconnect the fuel sending unit located on top of tank. you should have two straps holding the tank in place, remove them and the tank will slide out.
SOURCE: 87 nissan starts then stalls
jdmbaker: There are a few areas I would suggest looking in.
First, I would be looking for a false air problem. This is a condition where you have un-metered air getting into the engine. A torn airflow meter boot, or large vacuum leak such as a split pcv hose.
Second, your injector pulse width is primarily dependent on the coolant temperature sensor. This component is located at the front of the motor just below the thermostat housing. The sensor gives the ECM resistance values based on the temperature of the coolant. If the sensor fails, usually, they have a tendency to create a lean condition. This shortens the pulse width of the injectors which essentially starves the engine for fuel. One way you can perform a quick test for a lean condition, is to pinch off the return hose for the fuel going to the tank. If you look at the fuel hoses, they run right next to each other. You have one which comes from the fuel filter. That is the feed line. Pinch the other hose. This will boost the fuel pressure causing more fuel to be sprayed out of the injectors.With the hose pinched, hit the throttle, if the engine will rev up, you persue the lean condition theory.
Third. Check for a weak spark. A severely worn cap and rotor or bad plug wires can cause a hesitation and stalling problem if they are bad enough.
Fourth. The air flow meter could be faulty. This is a very common symptom matching you description.
Odds are that one of these are the solution. Good luck and let me know how you do.
SOURCE: 87 jag xj6. Brake pedal spongy goes all the way
If the brake lines and fluid is clear then you may have to look at the brake booster found at the other end of the brake pedal under the hood...
SOURCE: i have an 87 ford f150 4.9 six cylinder with dual
might be **** in the filter m8 sucked it up from the bottom of the tank, they dont tend to like it!! jezza
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