Question about 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Mate, remove the idle air valve, clean the pintle with brake cleaner but try not to turn the pintle when cleaning. The pintle is the part with a spring on it. It builds up carbon over time. If you are unable to clean it because it may be a sealed type, have it tested and replace if bad... cheers
Posted on Nov 20, 2017
Could be the TPS - throttle postion sensor , a problem with IAC - idle air control -passages partly clogged not allowing enough air to by-pass the throttle plate or a EGR valve that could be carboned up an not closing all the way . A EGR valve that is sticking open can cause a false MAP sensor code. Video's on youtube showing how to check , an clean .
080 EGR and Catalytic Converter Tests EGR Test
Hooking up a capable scan tool an viewing sensor data would point to problem .
Posted on Oct 07, 2017
It could be a problem with the wiring with the sensor. You would need a multi-meter to check the wiring. Diagnostics cannot tell if the sensor is bad, only that the information sent does not agree with what should be reported.
Posted on Oct 07, 2017
I am going to assume that it will not run even if you push on the accelerator pedal?
Can you install or attach an old timing light to the spark plug wires, turn it one and try to start it. The light should flash with the engine running, but if it shuts off at time of engine die, and the engine is still spinning, you are losing spark, My suggestion is the cranks shaft sensor on bell housing.
Second, install a pressure gage on the test port on the fuel rail and watch it as you start the engine, fuel pressure should not drop as the engine dies, if it does, the pump is not working correctly. There are two modes of power to that pump, one to start and timed, for only a few seconds to prime the system, and one to run continuously. Find the wires going to the pump at the tank. Connect test light to those wires and watch what happens during crank and at stall, You should not have the pump shut off and the engine dies.
If you have spark, and fuel pump working, when did you last change the filter,,but I put that LAST.
It has to be one or the other of these.
Posted on Aug 04, 2008
Sounds just like mine and after a lot of headscratching it looks like mine has the common fault of a crack in the manifold which is allowing oxygen rich air in and giving false readings leading to the ecu overcompensating hence the lumpiness unless you have your foot down when theres plenty of output from the engine and correct readings. AND/OR a faulty sensor in the manifold. I know i have a crack in mine just above the donut joint i can hear and see it so have ordered a twinflex replacement stainless item will then get it back on computer and next step is replace sensor (twinflex around £100 for item on ebay)
Posted on May 19, 2009
P0505 means the whole Idle Control system, not only the IAM. Check all related sensors (i.e. crankshaft sensor). Check with a voltmeter direct at the connector of the IAM if you get any signal. Remove the IAM from the TB, connect him, let someone switch your ignition key to ON. The IAM need to drive in/out for a short time to find the right position. Hold the IAM near a hard part, that they cant drive out completely! If IAM works fine, check the fuel pressure, check and clean your TB ( if not done yet). If that doesn't work, come back again please
Posted on Oct 27, 2009
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