Engine starts and idle but no power.up to 1500rpm.is it the air flow cencor?

The computer logs this code when the mass airflow sensor indicates more airflow than expected. Is the engine idling high? It could be that the idle air control valve is jammed open. Or, there could be another excessive air flow path downstream of the airflow sensor. Check all hoses connected to the inlet duct between the airflow sensor and the throttle body. Are any of them connected to the intake manifold?

to whom it may concern. my dmax model 2006 3000 cc lately having problem like engine suddenly stop especially when it slow,fuel filter already new fuel line been check but the problem still there.anyone been encountered this problem before what is the problem?

HI i HAVE JUST HAD A SIMULAR PROBLEM WITH MY ISUZU 2.5 D MAX EVEN AFTER CLEANING AND REPLASING THE FUEL FILLTER THE ENGINE WOULD CUT DOWN LIKE THERE WAS NO FUEL GETTING THROUGH. PROBLEM SOLVED MY GARAGE MACHANIC TOLD ME TO REMOVE THE TINY FILTER SITUATED IN THE BANGO BOLT WHICH GOES INTO THE INJECTOR PUMP THIS WAS THE PROBLEM AND MY CAR IS NOW RUNNING LIKE A GOOD ONE . DAVE

could be a (tps)throttle position sensor also look at (maf)mass airflow sensor/(map)manifold absolute pressure sensor.(iac)idle air control valve...or and a bigger fix a leaking intake manifold gasket but will usually stall when stoping or idleing down.hope this helps so many possibilities but i hope this helps.please rate my answer,and thankyou for using fix ya.

2 airflow sensor out of operating range 3 coolant temp sensor out of operating range 4 oxy sensor indicates full rich 5 throttle potentiometer/airflow sensor... (low throttle pot signal with high airflow sensor signal) 6 throttle pot/airflow sensor...... (high throttle pot signal with low airflow sensor signal) 7 throttle pot...idle fuel adjustment failure(idle speed??) 8 intake air temp sensor...open or shorted circuit to sensor 11 Throttle pot at idle: Throttle pot idle trim out of normal range 12 Airflow meter: MAF signal out of range 14 Coolant thermistor: Resistance out of range or static during engine warm up 16 Air thermistor: Resistance out of range 17 Throttle pot: Out of range 18 Throttle pot/Airflow: Low throttle pot signal at high airflow 19 Throttle pot/Airflow: High throttle pot signal at low airflow 22 Fuel pump drive: ECU output to fuel pump relay 23 Fuel supply: Engine running too rich 24 Ignition Drive: ECU output to ignition Amp 26 Air leak: Engine running too lean 29 ECU self check 33 Injector Drive: ECU output to injectors 34 Injector: Looks for Injector dribble 37 EGR Drive: ECU output to EGR switching valve 39 EGR check sensor: EGR not working (normally pipe blocked) 44 Lambda (O2) sensor: Poor mixture control rich or weak (or misfire) 46 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil AB 47 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil CD 48 Idle Speed Control Valve: Stepper motor grossly out of position 66 Air pump: ECU output to air pump relay 68 Road speed sensor: Seen speed < 5km/h at high engine airflow 69 Drive/Neutral switch: Seen cranking in "D" or high airflow in "N" 89 Purge Valve drive: ECU output to purge valve
this is all I could find

check your fuel cap when they start to go bad the pressure in the tank won't read and it will make it do that. and if it still does it then try cleaning the throttle body and the mass air flow sensor when they get dirty they can cause the same problem

The Idle air speed control of the car is starting to go or the Mass Air Flow sensor is starting to go. I would have the vehicle checked out by your local Mechanic. The HIgh RPM at 3500 on start up is going to cause internal damage to the engine over time. The engine oil can not circulate fast enough on initial start up to all the lubricating parts.

Gook Luck

Try to disconnect the Air Flow Meter. It is the first plug just before the air filter/air intake box. If this improves your situation you will need to source a new or aftermarket Air Flow Meter.

If you find that the engine is dying at intersections and runs a rough and fluctuating idle at start up, and you also sometimes lose power even though the engine is running then it is probably your Air Flow Meter or sometimes reffered to as a Mass Airflow Sensor. Eventually, as the AFM deteriates further you will no longer be able to start the engine as the ECU can no longer get accurate flow readings to work out air fuel ratios and shuts it all down to stop damage occuring. 2 ways to fix, replace AFM or upgrade your ECU to one that is capable of running MAPs for air fuel ratio, rather than using a sensor. Hope this helps.

I HAVE TO START CAR TWICE BEFORE IT START,, FIRST TIME IT SURGES AND DIES