Where is the egr valve on a 2.4l pontiac engine

SOURCE: my 1994 firebird with a 3.4L check engine light

REMOVE EGR VALVE CLEAN OUT THE CARBON INSIDE THE EGR VALVE PORT HOLE IN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD WHERE EGR VALVE SITS.CAREFULLY USE A PIECE OF CLOTHES RACK OR A TINY SCREW DRIVER CLEAN CARBON OUT ROUND HOLE.USE A SHOP VAC TO VACUUM UP THE DEBRIS TO KEEP FROM GETTING INSIDE INTAKE.DONT USE SHOP VAC IF YOU HAVE ANY FUEL LEAKS OR SMELL GAS FUMES UNDER THE HOOD.

Testimonial: "thanks will give it a try."

SOURCE: when a/c is turned on idles rough and rpms drop

It's possibly the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). The TPS controls the throttle in different conditions i.e. cold,warm, AC operation. It could be the TPS isn't idling fast enough when you operate the AC.

Marvin

• 85242 Answers
• Posted on Mar 17, 2009

SOURCE: 2003 Ford Taurus wants to die when coming to a stop

TRY THIS AND LET ME KNOW IF IT CORRECTS YOUR PROBLEM
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls at stops and low erratic idle speed and rough idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake

SOURCE: how do you clean the egr valve on 99 pontiac montana

You would need to remove it and look into the passage that is covered in black soot. there is usually a little poppet that moves up and down to allow the exhaust gas to pass thru it, some are vacuum operated and some are electric. you can push the poppet open and scrape out the carbon with a little screw driver, generally they dont get all that pluged up on newer cars. I looked at a picture of yours at auto zone.com It appears yours is electrically actuated. If either the electric actuator or the position feedback in the valve are bad you would need to replace it. You could attempt to clean it and move the poppet up and down it could just be stuck

SOURCE: When my 1991 Deville 4.9 Liter Engine is cold it

The combination of heat and missing tells me that you have an ignition problem. Warm the engine as much as possible and take a water mister and mist the exhaust manifold with the water mist at each cylinder where the exhaust comes out of the cylinder. The cylinder(s) that doesn't evaporate as quickly as all the others is the one that's missing (no combustion = no heat out the exhaust for that cylinder). The next thing to do is to pull the spark plug. examine it for dirt built up around the electrode. If it's dirty then just replace all your plugs. If the plugs look good ( not worn - no contaminates around the electrode) then suspect plug wires. If all the cylinders evaporated the water pretty much the same, then your coil wire to the distributor cap or the cap and/or rotor itself is faulty. Examine the rotor cap and rotor for thin black lines running along the inside. If you find evidence of arcing (the lines inside) then replace the cap and rotor at the same time. The data you gave though sounds more like plugs or plug wires if I were to guess... For best results you should plan on replacing plugs/wires/rotor/distributor cap at the maintenance intervals suggested in the owners manual. But now that you're having these issues you should have some kind of concrete evidence before replacing these items - that is unless you've never replaced them ever before. In which case it's high time to have replaced them.