Replace steering rack bush in 1990 subaru liberty

Vt commodore steering Rack boots always rip and tear,the racks always tend to leak from the internal seals.
So if this the case with yours I would recommend you just get a reconditioned steering rack and fit it but once the rack is replaced you will also need to do a wheel alignment.
steps to change rack .
1.raise vehicle on hoist
2.remove front wheels
3.remove tie rod end split pins
4.undo tie rod end nuts and inner nuts on rack ends
5.release tie rod end from hub.
6.centralise steering wheel and remove keys from ignition
7.count the number of turns on each side that tie rod come off and write down .
8.undo the 2 metal pipes that go into the rack feed and return lines and make sure u have container under the vehicle to collect old fluid.
9.undo the 13mm nut and bolt that mounts the rack to the steering colum shaft.
10.undo the 2 *19mm bolts and nuts that mount the rack to the crossmember.
11.gentle wiggle the rack and it will come away.
12.follow these steps in reverse when fitting new rack.,make sure you replace the oring seals .
13.you will need to get a wheel alignment done..

Procedure on replacing the inner tie rod ends:


1) Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2) Remove the front wheel/tire assembly.

3) Clean the steering rod between the steering boot and outer tie rod end lock nut with a suitable penetrating lubricant and a clean cloth or shop towel.

4) Loosen the outer tie rod end locking nut 1/8 turn.

5) Loosen the steering boot clamp(s), and slide the small clamp off the boot.

6) Carefully loosen the boot and slide outward off the steering rack and onto the shaft to expose the inner steering rod mounting fastener.

7) If necessary, position the inner steering rack shaft in or out to allow for additional access.

8) Relieve the steering rod nut locking tab from the inner steering rack shaft, then loosen the steering rod ball socket nut 1 turn.

9) Matchmark the tie rod end to the threaded shaft.

10) Remove the cotter key and castle nut from the outer tie rod end threaded spindle, and using a tie rod end removal tool, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

11) Hold the tie rod with a wrench, and remove the outer tie rod end from the threaded rod, counting the number of complete turns it takes to remove the tie rod end from the shaft. Write the number of turns on a piece of note paper.

12) Remove the tie rod end lock nut from the threaded steering shaft.

13) Slide the steering rack boot off the shaft.

14) Remove the inner steering rod ball socket nut from the inner steering rack shaft.

To install:

1) Inspect the tie rod end for looseness, and the steering rack boot and tie rod end boot for cracks deterioration or damage and replace as necessary.

2) Clean steering rack shaft and apply a light coating of Genuine Honda Power steering fluid as necessary.

3) Apply a medium strength locking agent to the threads where the inner steering rod ball socket mounts. Use a new locking washer and a new stop washer, and install the inner tie rod onto the steering rack shaft.

4) Tighten the inner tie rod end fastener by 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm)

5) Peen the lock washer over the nut or onto the flat surface of the steering rack shaft.

6) Apply silicone grease to the outer circumference of the inner tie rod end ball socket, and onto the groove just outside of the socket.

7) Apply silicone grease to the inside of the small end of the steering rack boot, and slide the boot over the steering shaft and onto the rack and install the boot clamps. If the boot has air hose fittings make sure they are installed as removed.

8) Apply a light film of an anti-seize compound onto the threaded tie rod end, and install the tie rod end lock nut.

9) Install the tie rod end onto the tie rod, turning it in exactly the number of turns it took to remove it.

10) Install the tie rod end following the tie rod end installation procedure.

11) The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

12) Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

Hi Gunny, If your vehicle is fitted with rack and pinion steering also check the rack ends for play. The rack ends are the rods which the tie rod ends screw onto. The other end fits onto the rack of the rack and pinion. To work on those you will need to remove the rubber boots and loosen the locking washer, they can then be loosened with a wrench. If they are worn the play will be evident in the steering. When replacing them also replace the rubber boots. If the boots are worn and road grime and dust enters, you will see leakage from the rack and pinion in the near future. I always thought the Dakota was fitted with a steering box? Regards John

It's a bit of a pain, but doable with simple tools.

Loosen the front lug nuts. Jack up the van and support it on the rails just behind the front tires (not the sub frame as you need to lower that a few inches). Remove the front tires. Disconnect the sway bar link pins, and the sway bar mounting bolts. Disconnect the tie rod ends from the knuckles. Support the rear ends of the sub frame, and remove the bolts mounting it to the van. Once the sub frame bolts are out, lower the rear end of the frame. I did this by using a jack, and placing the jack stands a couple of inches below the frame. Remove the sway bar from the van. You may need to drop the rack a bit more, but be careful as the steering shaft is still connected. You should be able to get at the bolt that attaches the rack stub to the steering rod by pushing up on the boot. Remove the sub shaft bolt. Disconnect the power steering lines from the rack (at the rack). Un-bolt the rack from the sub frame, there are two bolts. The rack should be able to be removed from the drivers side of the van. I replaced the tie rod ends and the sway bar bushings when I replaced mine (new link pins are easy at this time too). The installation is reverse of removal. I measured the tie rod distances when I put the new ends on. The only change I made was that I tied the steering shaft boot down onto the rack so I could install the bolt. I couldn't push the boot up high enough to get the bolt back in. Be sure to install the new power steering line seals that should come with the rack (buy new ones if it doesn't) - the lines are different sizes so you can't mix them up. Torque everything to spec when reinstalling (the cheap Hanes manuals have what you need along with these directions!). It's easiest to install the sway bar brackets when the sub frame is hanging down. Once it's together and running, check the power steering fluid. Get an alignment immediately (I set mine up before I changed the rack).
One last bit of advice, buy the rack with the longer warranty, you don't want to do this twice.

Inner tie rods rarely if ever need to be replaced in my experience: outer tie rod ends are far more common. Its not impossible so here's how.

1. remove the tie rod ends from the knuckle.
2. remove the clamp for the rubber bellows on the rack ends, and slide the bellows down the rod.
3. Turn the rack to fullleft or right as needed to get access to the inner rod end that screws into the rack.
4. There's a lock tab that has to be bent flat. This locks the rod end into the rack.
5. You'll need a (probably) 32mm wrench to undo the rod end from the rack.
6. Note how the lock tab is fitted to the rack/rod end.

7. Put in the new tie rods.

If your garage mechanic told you the inner tie rods are worn out, I'd ask why they think so. At step 4. above, try rotating the rod. This should be quite difficult. There should be NO evidence of slop or wear in the inner joint. What more commonly wears is the bushes on the end of the rack. These bushes are easily replacable with the rack in the car.The tie rods have to be removed to do this. So, when the rods are off, inspect the rack bushes for wear.

SD

Simply jack the vehicle up / remove the wheel on that side / removed the split pin and castellated nut on the tie rod end / using a soft hammer or ball joint splitter hit the end of the ball joint arm till the tie rod falls out / loosen the tie rod lock nut then unscrew the tie rod. Remove the boot clips / clamps and remove the torn rack boot. Replacement is the reverse of the above.
NB = A wheel alignment is required to correct the adjustment of the tie rod end ASAP.

it depends if it is inner or outer tierod if it is inner i would get the bushings for it too

No. Go to Napa, get the bushing repair kit. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. Remove the air inlet tube. Should be 2 7/8" bolts retaining the inner tie rod ends. Loosen both. Remove one at a time, replace bushing with kit. Use some synthetic brake grease on the bushings. I recommend Napa sylglide. Replace the bolt, but do not tighten all the way. Do the other the same way. Tightnen both bolts, reinstall the air inlet tube, get vehicle aligned.

pretty decent job ahead first jack up car support with jack stands remove front wheels remove nuts on tie rod ends remove tie rod ends from spindles with tie rod end tool or tap with malet were they sit to loosen them hit the spindle area not the tie rod or tie rod threads then dissconnect power steering lines from steering rack also disconect steering linkage to rack there should be 2 main bolts holding assembly to frame remove them should free rack i know that car may have a unique design were u may have to remove inner tie rod ends first if it has those round bushings that always go bad disconect inner tie rod ends behind engine on top of steering rack then remove rack from wheel well replace those inner tie rod bushings u may be able to leave outer tie rod end connected to spindles and u may be able to get to the sterring rack from behind engine good luck

If this is a rack and pinion type steering, in order to remove the inner tie rods you will first have loosen the jam nut at the outer tie rod end,next unbolt the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle, unscrew the outer tie rod end off (be sure to count how many turns to remove), next remove the inner bellows boot (black boot) from the tie rod / rack and pinion, next is to unscrew the inner tie rod from the rack assembly (the do make a tool for this to make it easier) but if you do not have the tool,you can sometimes use a big pair of channel locks or a big enough wrench to fit on the fitting on the inside of the inner tie rod, and just unscrew the inner tie rod (normal left=loosen, right=tighten). Hope this helps. Would also recommend having it aligned after you are finished.