Question about Ford Cars & Trucks
EX Master Mechanic needs a hand. Am not buying answers or Chilton's. Will return a favor when called upon to 'pick my brain'. Just need to know where the IAT sensor is located on the 4.0L so I can install a chip. The instructions that came /w it are junk. Help Please!
The IAT or MAT sensor (as equipped), is a thermistor (resistor which changes value based on temperature) mounted either in the air intake snorkel or the manifold (depending on the application).
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
The egr valve has two sensors. One is an EGR position sensor which is physically attached to the EGR valve. The other sensor is the DPFE (Delta Pressure Feedback EGR) sensor, commonly called the EGR pressure sensor. It's location varies depending on the engine you have. You can fine this sensor by following the vacuum hose on the EGR valve. It will be with in inches of the EGR valve. The sensor will be black (plastic) or silver (metal), have two or three vacuum ports and an electrical connection on it.
The vacuum pressure sensor is a high failure item on fords. Any Ford parts department will have one in stock, as well as some aftermarket parts stores.
The new sensor may not look exactly the same as the old part, but will have all the hook ups as the old one. You may also need to replace the vacuum hose to the sensor as well
Posted on Feb 25, 2009
Yes. That is exactly it. The Air Intake Temp Sensor is built into the Mass Air Flow Sensor on the Air Filter Box. Below is a picture...
I personally have not connected one of these Chips to a Tahoe...What I can provide you with, is the Connector Diagram so you know exactly what Wires you need to Splice in to. See below...
I hope this helps you. If you have any more questions or need any more diagrams, please don't hesisitate to ask...Thanks again, JShreader.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
Save your money, the chip is a ohm resistor at Radio Shack for under $2.00. It splices in to you IAT wire harness located at the intake tube between the air filter housing and throttle body.
Problem with this system is, that you can not adjust anything and have to run a constant 91 octane just to make sure you do not have a Detonation. The ECM will catch the Detonation from the knock sensor and compensate for it by retarding the timing which in turn lose of HP till next start up.
If you like and don't mind the check engine light on once and awhile, you can do the same by just disconnecting the IAT wire harness which give the ECM a 0 resistance thinking it's -20 out side and turn the timing up and lengths the injector pules.
When i was running a Nitro in the Toy before i sold it, i had installed a 10K ohm Potentiometer which you can buy at radio shack for under $5.00 i believe, I just spliced it in to the IAC wire harness so if i wanted to play with the Nitro I'ld turn the resistor up making the engine think it's 185 degrees F and would ****** the timing so i would not hurt the engine. But if i wanted to get more timing i would just turn the knob to drop the resistance to get more time since the engine thinks it's -20 out side.
Hope this helps. Keep me posted if you need more info. Best thing is to do a dyno tune and you can change everything right down to the Shift points.
Posted on May 29, 2009
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