1991 Honda CRX Logo
Jesse Flores Posted on Jun 09, 2012
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1991 Honda crx won't start

Trouble code reads: ignition output signal bad. have replaced, ingnition switch,igniter/coil,distributer cap, rotor,spark plugs,checked all fuses,new battery,

1 Answer

nathan

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  • Master 634 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 09, 2012
nathan
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Joined: Jul 06, 2009
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Try tracing the wires and looking for a worn spot in insulation that is grounding out, its a royal pain but might be the only solution, use wire prob and test areas where inaccessible. good luck

5 Related Answers

daves944

Dave C

  • 1050 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 26, 2009

SOURCE: 1991 honda accord "no spark"

There is a relay mounted way up under the dash on the driver side. It is about 1"x1"x2" and it says Mitsuba on it. This is the PGMFI relay, sometimes called the main relay or fuel injection relay. It is very likely the problem. You can buy another one, or there was a bulletin on how to repair it. You need to take it out, pop the cover off, and resolder the cracked solder joints on the pc board that the relays are mounted on. Really not that hard if you have a little soldering experience. If not, just buy another one, about 50 bucks.cb28323.jpg

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jun 18, 2009

SOURCE: 94 Honda Accord

my d4 is blinking also from time to time what can i do james bklyn

Anonymous

  • 3092 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 11, 2010

SOURCE: what is a ignition output signal on a 1990 honda

Most of the time these distributor come with the ignition module did your, if it did and it has not been that long and is still under warranty, have it replace, if it did not come with one replace module.

jturcotte

Jeffrey Turcotte

  • 8991 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 03, 2011

SOURCE: my honda oddessey 1995, my

Hi, since you've replaced everything else, about the only thing left is the crankshaft position sensor. This is the sensor the computer uses to time the spark signals. Because this sensor is expensive, I recommend you test it first to verify it's bad before replacing. I have pasted test procedures below as well as replacement procedure in case it fails the tests. You will need an ohmmeter for the test. If you don't have an ohmmeter, you can buy one for as little as $10, or maybe you can borrow one. You will also need a timing light if you replace the sensor. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.


TESTING CRV and 1995 Odyssey Models

  1. With the ignition switch OFF , detach the electrical connector on the side of the distributor housing.
  2. Measure the resistance between the following two CKP wires:

    CRV models: The blue and white wires. The resistance should be 300-700 ohms. 1995 Odyssey models: The blue/green and blue/yellow wires. The resistance should be 700-1,300 ohms.
  3. If the resistance is not in the specified range, replace the distributor ignition housing.


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CRV and 1995 Odyssey Models

  1. Remove the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the distributor cap leaving the wires attached and place aside.
  3. Disconnect the electrical connectors at the side of the distributor housing.
  4. Make a matchmark reference mark between the distributor housing and the cylinder head and remove the distributor housing assembly.

To install:
  1. Transfer the components not supplied with the replacement distributor housing assembly.
  2. Install the distributor housing assembly in the reverse order of removal.

jturcotte_1430.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: The Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor rotor looks like a small gear in the lower distributor housing- CRV and 1995 Odyssey models



7. Check and reset the ignition timing as outlined below.

ADJUSTMENT CRV and 4-Cylinder Odyssey Models



If equipped with an automatic transaxle, place the shifter in Park or Neutral. If equipped with a manual transaxle place the shifter in Neutral. Make sure to apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels.


  1. With the heater off and in the full cold position, start the engine and hold the engine speed at 3000 rpm, until the radiator fan comes on at least one time. To check the ignition timing, the engine must be at idle speed and at normal operating temperature. Make sure all electrical consumers (defroster, radio, air conditioning, lights, etc.,) are turned OFF.
  2. Locate the blue plastic Service Check (SCS) Connector, as follows:

    Odyssey models with 4-cylinder engines: centrally located on the passenger side, under the dash. The connector has two wires; one is brown with a black tracer, and the other wire is red.

See Figures 1 and 2

jturcotte_393.jpg

Fig. Fig. 1: The inductive lead of the timing light is placed around the No. 1 spark plug wire; and the light is aimed toward the marks on the crankshaft pulley.


jturcotte_1431.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: The red ignition timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is lined up with the pointer. The two small notches on either side of the red colored notch represent the plus (+) or minus (-) 2° increments. The white notch to the far right is Top Dead Center (TDC)

  1. Connect the SCS service connector tool number 07PAZ-0010100 or equivalent to the service connector. A paper clip can be substituted for the tool by forming a "U" shaped bend in the paper clip and carefully inserting it into the back side of the SCS service connector terminals. The purpose of the tool is simply to connect the two wires together temporarily.
  2. Connect a timing light to No. 1 ignition wire and point the light toward the pointer on the timing belt cover.
  3. Check the idle speed and adjust if necessary.
  4. The red mark on the crankshaft pulley should be aligned with the pointer on the timing belt cover.
The white mark on the crank pulley is Top Dead Center (TDC).
  1. Adjust the ignition timing by loosening the distributor mounting bolts and rotating the distributor housing to adjust the timing. Set as follows:
    2.2L/2.3L Odyssey 2.2L models: 13-17° at 650-750 rpm
  2. Tighten the distributor bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) and recheck the timing.
  3. Remove the SCS service connector or the substituted paper clip from the SCS service plug.

Fixitman909

Tommy Thomas

  • 430 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 07, 2011

SOURCE: 1997 Honda Accord SE not getting spark Have

are u sure it,s spark and not the fuel pump relay?...when u have no spark..it never starts period ....

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When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or cranshaft position sensor CKP

A tool such as an Ignition System Simulator can speed the diagnosis by quickly telling you if the ignition module and coil are capable of producing a spark with a simulated timing input signal. If the simulated signal generates a spark, the problem is a bad distributor pickup or crankshaft position sensor. No spark would point to a bad module or coil. Measuring ignition coil primary and secondary resistance can rule out that component as the culprit.
Module problems as well as pickup problems are often caused by loose, broken or corroded wiring terminals and connectors. Older GM HEI ignition modules are notorious for this. If you are working on a distributorless ignition system with a Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, check the sensor's reference voltage (VRef) and ground. The sensor must have 5 volts or it will remain permanently off and not generate a crank signal (which should set a fault code). Measure VRef between the sensor power supply wire and ground (use the engine block for a ground, not the sensor ground circuit wire). Don't see 5 volts? Then check the sensor wiring harness for loose or corroded connectors. A poor ground connection will have the same effect on the sensor operation as a bad VRef supply. Measure the voltage drop between the sensor ground wire and the engine block. More than a 0.1 voltage drop indicates a bad ground connection. Check the sensor mounting and wiring harness.
If a Hall effect crank sensor has power and ground, the next thing to check would be its output. With nothing in the sensor window, the sensor should be "on" and read 5 volts (VRef). Measure the sensor D.C. output voltage between the sensor signal output wire and ground (use the engine block again, not the ground wire). When the engine is cranked, the sensor output should drop to zero every time the shutter blade, notch, magnetic button or gear tooth passes through the sensor. No change in voltage would indicate a bad sensor that needs to be replaced.
If the primary side of the ignition system seems to be producing a trigger signal for the coil but the voltage is not reaching the plugs, a visual inspection of the coil tower, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires should be made to identify any defects that might be preventing the spark from reaching its intended destination.


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I have a 1991 Honda accord lx. When it is running or try to start it, it will take time to start. I checked the code and it is code 15. i keep hearing it could be an ignitor in the distributor etc. can...

Code 15 indicates a problem with the ignition output signal. There are a number of things it could be: the rotor, the igniter, the coil, the spark plug wires and/or their connections to the plugs. The rotor, igniter, and the coil can all be replaced. They are all, in the 1991, inside the distributor.
The basic check for ignition and battery supply to the ECU(computer) is to turn the ignition switch to on(do not start the car) to see if a battery or oil pressure light comes on, but that, in itself doesn't prove a lot (you've already said that the car starts; it just doesn't start easily).
It is time, I'm afraid to have your coil and igniter checked, or replaced.
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thnk u!!!
rate me!!
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Few possibilities exist. The fuel pump is most likely..This is given the fuel filter is in good shape. The coil and ignitor (in the distributor cap) is also a common problem.
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