150,000 miles also, changed struts
Anti rattle plates are damaged, remove pads clean rear surface apply thin layer of silicon to pad allowing it to dry then reinstall as per std, this will stop the squeak, or replace anti rattles, silicon is cheaper will last the life of pad, but all new pads will have to be treated the in the same manner .
SOURCE: 2004 Toyota Camry Brakes
Raise the vehicle up and remove the rims & tires
Remove the brake pads, and then remove the calipers from the caliper retention brackets, do NOT remove the brake hoses from the calipers.
Remove the caliper retaining brackets from the hub assemblies (2 large bolts on backside of the bracket)
Tap the brake rotors off of the hubs, hit them from the back side of the rotor.
No big mysteries here, this is a very easy job.
SOURCE: front control arm bushings
You have a lot of issues. Let me take each on one by one...
Front control arm bushings: In a word, unbelievable.
Maybe on a 1991 Camry, but not an 05 with 50 K miles. Nope. I would have to see it to believe it. I have YET to change any on any Camry 2000 and up. They simply do not fail. They might "look" bad, but I seriously doubt that they are bad. I have answered a question identical to this previously here at FixYA, and I had the golden opportunity to examine the exact vehicle in question, the owner and I were within 50 miles of each other. Same story, same diagnosis. She didn't need the repair, either. Besides, if they WERE bad, you would have SEVERE control issues with the steering, and tire wear of epic proportions. If you have neither of those 2 mentioned issues, you don't need the replacements.
Save your money.
Regarding the front brakes: The pads "sticking" in the brackets is unfortunately a common problem. The pads rust a bit, and they seize, and uneven wear is a normal result of the pads being "stuck". Personally, I think 320 dollars is a lot of money to just change the pads...The parts are like 53 dollars, and the labor is about an hour. I charge approx 145 dollars to replace ft pads, and I charge 20 bucks to clean and adjust the rear brakes.
Best advice: Go find another dealership. This one wants to rob you.
SOURCE: 2005 camry front control arm bushings
You have a lot of issues. Let me take each on one by one...
Front control arm bushings: In a word, unbelievable.
Maybe on a 1991 Camry, but not an 05 with 50 K miles. Nope. I would have to see it to believe it. I have YET to change any on any Camry 2000 and up. They simply do not fail. They might "look" bad, but I seriously doubt that they are bad. I have answered a question identical to this previously here at FixYA, and I had the golden opportunity to examine the exact vehicle in question, the owner and I were within 50 miles of each other. Same story, same diagnosis. She didn't need the repair, either. Besides, if they WERE bad, you would have SEVERE control issues with the steering, and tire wear of epic proportions. If you have neither of those 2 mentioned issues, you don't need the replacements.
Save your money.
Regarding the front brakes: The pads "sticking" in the brackets is unfortunately a common problem. The pads rust a bit, and they seize, and uneven wear is a normal result of the pads being "stuck". Personally, I think 320 dollars is a lot of money to just change the pads...The parts are like 53 dollars, and the labor is about an hour. I charge approx 145 dollars to replace ft pads, and I charge 20 bucks to clean and adjust the rear brakes.
Best advice: Go find another dealership. This one wants to rob you.
SOURCE: replace front brake pad 2003 toyota 4 runner
Diagram is unnecessry.
Pull both front wheels
Work one at a time leaving the other for reference
Find the retention spring ... its a paperclip thickness wire spring... dislodge center retention loop and undo from both ends which engage brake pad retention rods.
Pull the rods out
Pull the old pads out... laying everything on the ground
Use scrap wooden wedges to pry between the rotor and the caliper ...inside and out until the calipers are fully withdrawn. Use the new pads to measure if they are far enough back.
Note... the brake fluid will have dropped in the master cylinder over many months of wear... do not fill it. When the calipers are pushed back they will fill the reservoir again... one wheel at a time.
Be sure to identify the correct pad based on what you took out and what is on the other side (if you screwed up the layout)
Make sure to take the old antisqueek backing plate from the old pad and place it on the new pad. They don't use lubricant on these anymore.
Replace the pads... the retention rods... then the retention spring
Do the other side
Then progressively step on the brake peddle until full tension is felt
Check the master cylinder reservoir... probably needs no additional fluid.
New pads will register in existing ridges in each disc in no time at all.
You should check the discs to see if they need to be replaced during this operation...using some calipers
SOURCE: how to replace brake pads & rotors
I have a 2006 Sequoia which should have the similar if not the exact same brake system. Changing the pad is very easy and straight forward. No special wrenth was involved. Easier than sedans since no worry to damage the brake fluid pipe.
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