LIFTER IS TAPPING AFTER WARMING UP AND OIL LIGHT IS COMING ON

Hi, if you have been talking to somebody, if you reply on the comment link, they will know your asking another question. As far as firing order, whatever cylinder would have to be on compression stroke.
I don't know year--make--model?

replaced crank and cam sensor [Archive] - Sorento Nation - KIA ...

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replaced crank and cam sensors put back together cranked up very rough idle some tapping any ... 12-17-2012, 12:24 AM ... It's a 2006 3.5 Kia Sorrento. ... I found theproblem the SUV has a aftermarket alarm and remote start system I tripped ...

Kia Rio Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement - YouTube

? 4:44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hihQxMWuSFY
Mar 21, 2014 - Uploaded by Jason Roush
While looking for how to replace a Kia Rio crankshaft positionsensor, ... is on and i have a P0340 code, think this is theproblem? kia rio 2002.

Kia Sorrento/Sedona: 3.5 Litre Engine/Timing Belt/Crank ...

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Mar 29, 2014 - Uploaded by JamieJones TheCarMan
Repair and/or Replacement tips for timing belt, crank sensor,cam sensor, water pump and drivebelt ...

Crankshaft position sensor - 2003 Kia Sorento - RepairPal

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The ticking sound maybe from a lifter or the valve lash on one or more lifters is a little loose. As to the smoke you may have a shed roof seal in the head going bad and letting oil into the valve. This would cause the engine to smoke at start up. Not sure this is going to help but gives you a place to start.

bottom end noise usualy the knock of death for most engines
tap noises are lifters knock is crank or rod bearings. driving will only spin a bearing or weld it to the crank
if the truck worth it...used engine from auto wrecker
or spend that money on new ride

If it is a 'squealing' noise it's probably the alternator/power steering drive belt. Before you turn on the engine in the morning, lightlt smear or spray some oil on the inside of the drive belt to lubricate it. If the squealing stops/disappears, then that's the fault ..

That squealing noise can be caused by an incorrectly tensioned belt, or a worn belt. Replacement is the only option.

The other frightening sounds can best be described as 'rattles' or 'tapping'. When a car stands overnight all the oil drains back into the sump (oil/pan).

There are two things (usually) that can be cause the rattle/tap:
1. Because the oil hasn't been pumped around the system, at start up worn big end bearings can rattle and tap on the crankshaft until the oil 'fills the gaps'. The tapping/rattling goes away as the engine warms and oil is pumped around the lubricating system.

A 'bottom end tapping' is a symptom of worn big ends (they are bearings at the bottom of the piston and fit around the crankshaft).

2. A rattle/tapping from the top of the engine can either be a worn camshaft or 'lazy tappets'. Again, when the engine warms and oil gets to the camshaft and tappets (also called 'hydraulic lifters) the noise will disappear.

If your car has this rattling/tapping noise - identify whether it is coming from just under the rocker box (ie the camshaft/tappets..) or the bottom end of the engine (big end bearings).

If the noise is coming from the top of the engine, try an oil change with a can of thick 'additive' included. A lazy tappet (lifter) isn't too much to worry about. A worn camshaft will affect the performance of the engine, though continue to do its job. An oil change with an additive included may help in quitening things down.

A bottom end tap/rattle (or 'knock') - the sooner that is sorted out the better.

NO/ MAKE SURE YOU MARK TIMING BELT POSTION BEFORE REMOVING BELT .

Listening to you spell wrong and guess the theres a lifter tap when the engine warms up it goes away runs good all the time? Sure alot of 4.0 and some 5.2 V8 do this. Missed a few oil changes did we? Heres what happened and something that might make it go away (maybe) ( It'll be back later) The lifters have accumulated some varnish and as the engine warms the clearnce relaxes and the lifter tighten s the vavle train and the noise stopps. Most engines stop in the same place in their firing order every time you shut them off. So a certain valve is being held open by the lifter and the cam as the car sits parked. The oil slowly leakes down out of the lifter. then you start up the oil presure comes up slowly in the lifter galley and finally the lifter fille=s back up the lash is closed and it stopps clicking. Change the oil and add a can of fuel injector cleaner as the lifter will pump up quicker if it were clean you may have to change the oil very week for awile as your washing out the dirt that would have been chnges if the oil was changed enought. Cheap oil is good if you plan to change it more than once

it is common for the oil pump to go bad after changing the timing belt.

the pump is located in the oil pan, and nothing drives it, it works as a sucking action....

i paid $1200 to do timing belt & waterpump .i could of done work myself but warranty requires licensed shop to do it to comply. if funds are low go to a shop and apply for credit. firestone,midas ect.they are rip offs but if approved a payment plan helps the pain

clean and or replace the terminal and sender for the oil pressure. they corrode pretty badly