Question about 1990 Honda CRX
Rreplacing clutch cable in 1991 honda crx
Posted by Anonymous on
SOURCE: crx cable clutch problem
The clutch assy. is worn out. When a clutch is new the springs on the pressure plate sit flat. When you push on the clutch the springs don't have to move far to disengage, making it easy to press on the clutch pedal. As the clutch wears the fingers of the clutch spring move out, clutch pedal effort and travel increases to the point that the clutch will not disengage anymore. Along the life of the clutch the cable can be adjusted to minimize this. You have reached the end of the adjustment, sorry for the bad news but the clutch needs to be replaced.
Posted on Apr 19, 2009
check the wire going to the clutch or tranny switch for power from the ignition switch if there is no power there the ignition switch needs replace
Posted on Jul 20, 2009
There's no trick to it, this is not in perfect order but it will help... You have to jump in, don't be afraid. Everything is just nuts and bolts. Drain the gear oil out of the trans, disconnect everything in the way, remove starter, all trans bolts, remove outer tie-rod bolt and pop the joint, remove lower control arm bolt on each side and pop the joint, (DON'T HAMMER THE THREADS ON THE BALL JOINTS, SMACK THE THICK METAL ON THE SIDES OF THE KNUCKLE / SPINDLE UNDER THE RUBBER BALL JOINT SEAL AND THE JOINT WILL POP OUT) push suspension up and pop out the axles. Remove motor mounts that connect to your trans. Pull the trans out or pry it carefully, MAKE SURE EVERY BOLT IS OUT. You'll also need to prop the engine up with a jack and something soft like wood or layers of cardboard. The trans will slide out but it's a few inches then it will want to drop so have something under it like a skateboard or a creeper with layers of cardboard to protect both. Don't let it slam down and hit the spline coming out of the engine. Your new clutch kit will have instructions and an alignment tool in the package to complete the clutch install. Then slap it back together. Could take 5 hours your first time, about 2.5 next time.
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
Testimonial: "thanks cuz i had no idea how to do that this will help me out alot"
NOT NECESSARILY IN ORDER: Remove the 2 nuts from the top of your shock tower under the hood - remove the pivot bolt at the bottom of your shock fork - remove the upper control arm ball joint nut - remove the lower control arm ball joint nut - bang on the thick metal near the ball joints with a hammer (not hitting the rubber or the ball joint's bolts - remove the tie rod ball joint nut and do the same with the hammer - pull the shock and spring assembly out - You might need a spring compressor to take out the stock spring safely - remove the nut on top of the shock - It's recommended that you replace your shocks now - install the new springs according to the directions with the package - get a camber correction kit for your car - put it back together and immediately go pay for an alignment. Good luck.
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
Difficult to describe, but I will give it a try.
Inside the driver's side fender, close to the front of the car, there is a bracket that is held in place by one bolt, but which has a short horizontal bar as part of it which has two large clips encircling two cylinderical devices which have wires clipped into them at the bottoms. The one closest to the front (radiator) is the compressor clutch relay. The other one is the condenser fan relay.
Hope this helps you find it.
Posted on Oct 20, 2009
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