I have a 1997 Astro suddenly will not start the stater test O.K. the battery tests O.K. however a tester reveal that no power is coming to the starter is there a relay somewhere tahat is malfunctioning

Have you a test lamp
you got to remove the thin wire on the stater motor solenoid
with the tester hook to the thin wire ask some on the stater the car and see if you get any power through the tester
if yes the the stater motor is not working
second option is as some one starers the car tap on the stater motor
How is your mobilizer is it ok
try it good luck

Test battery with load tester. Check for electrical short.

VW rabbit 2007 has electronic power steering so you have to send it for diagnostic testing on an ODB II tester. It is the only way you going to pick up that intermittent fault. The error code on the diagnostic tester will reveal what is causing the problem. But go check out http://volkswagen-polo-highline.blogspot.com/ to see how this gets done.

With a testlight you can check every fuse in the box without pulling a single fuse in about 10 minutes.
Find a good ground for the testlight near the fusebox. The tops of the fuses have a little opening on both ends that accept a testlight's probe.
Start by turning key to on (engine off), and turn lights on. Now every fuse in the fusebox will be powered. You touch the probe into both ends of each fuse to test them. Good fuses will light the tester on both ends. Bad fuses will only light up on one end.
Good luck.

Check the battery condition. This can easily be done with a battery tester. It may be under load and the batter has a bad cell or a cell that is going. Also the starter may be overloading the system. Also an easy test with a load tester.

THERE IS A FUSE RELAY/ POWERBOX UNDER THE HOOD. GET A FUSE TESTER, TEST ALL FUSES BIG & SMALL. ONE OF THEM MUST BE BLOWN. THERE ARE TEST POINTS FACING OUT. THEY CAN BE TESTED WHILE STILL IN PLACE. POWER ON ONE SIDE ONLY, BAD FUSE. POWER ON BOTH SIDES GOOD FUSE. POWER ON NEITHER , PROBABLY A SPARE.

Sounds like a problem with the recharging system.

If you had a lot of electrical running such as headlights, stereo, interior lights, heater etc there is a large draw on the electrical system. At idle you could run the battery down. Jump start would solve the problem.

The clicking you hear could be one of two things.
1. The starter relay operating. This sound would come from the fuse box.

2. The starter solenoid engaging the stater motor. This would come from close to the engine where the starter is mounted. If the power is low the solenoid engages the starter but there in not enough power to turn the engine over. Again a jump start would solve this.

Sometimes it will go later after everything is shut down and the battery has time to "relax" from the draw or the temperature is higher. All can help a start.

You may have a weakening battery that is having trouble holding a full charge. A battery shop can bench test the battery for you.

If it is OK if could be a failing charging system.

If you have has a squeaking sound at idle or when cold and wet your alternator belt may be loose. It can be easily tightened.

If not your alternator may be weakening. Again a repair shop can test for output. Or simply test with a voltage tester to see the output.

If all is OK it could be more advanced in your charging system. For a do it yourself fix. Go the the library and get a copy of the Bently service manual for your yr of vehicle make model.

Adrian

I suggest you hook up 12 V digital multitester to the battery running & get your voltage. Next stop the truck & get the voltage leaving it connected & you should see the voltage steadily dropping. Then, take off the Negative cable & hook up the tester again to the 2 post of the battery & see if the voltage drops as before, or has stabilized. That will tell you if the truck is draining the battery for sure of if you have a bad cell. If it is the truck, you will need to go through troubleshooting the entire vehicle by eliiminating all use of current and gradually hooking things back up. IE: disconnect main fuses/breakers & see what happens on the tester. Then start connecting 1 item at a time & see what is requiring power or if you have a short. You should eventually find the culprit even if you have to remove fuses and test each time. An additional tester that test amperes without penetrating the wiring is helpful in finding the drain. Normally in the auto-parts stores. I just lay mine over the wiring & follow the voltage until I find the wiring leading to the one using the power or that is shorted. Good Luck.

Power Window motor seems to be going . There are two motors in the door panel one to raise and one to lower ....i would replace the raising motor.
Should only take 2hrs for novice.

Check that connections are clean and check battery voltage with a meter...If battery has less than 12v in it, likely you have a bad alternator.