1993 jeep wrangler 4.0 . engine stalls and misfires after warmed up

which engine,? the have up to 3 choices.
rih?
what are the full symptoms,
did you do the full listed 60k mile tune up on car?
sparkplugs,wire, cap rotor/filters? no engine runs right with bad spark
unless it's a diesel.
starts good
runs good or bad hot or cold engine
idle at 800 RPM hot?
stalls> when hot and cold engine
lost of power
bogging
misfire,
learchs>

only stalls , but runs perfect even up hills, at wide open throttle.
fresh gas, or 1 year old?fuel.
can your fast right foot , save the stall, and easily?

ok stalls 101.
1; lost 12vdc to EFI system.
2: lost engine compression.
3: lost spark.
4: lost fueling or floods
there is a simple test for each.
do you want more guesses, or how to do tests.
can do both, but my guessing fails 99 /100 times.

tune it up
do the right foot test. those are always first. on stalls.
always.

**** = jeeeerk.....?
no year, stated. wow ! 1993 to present.!
only Jeep GC.
no engine stated. nor transmission option type,?
stalls, all stalls end with the CEL glowing this is NORMAL the CEL
the CEL glows at key on, for self test. and at all stalls.
if you had looked closer at the cluster ,lots of lamps glow , at self test.

the jeerking (spelled wrong to fool the stupid bad words engine)
Jeerking is usually engine gross misfire, or loss of DC 12v electical power to the EFI systems. called DC power loss or battery power lost.
if all lamps in the car work , radio, heater blower, dash lamps all work
then the DC power is ok, Head lights work at STALL.?
it's not the transmission

so its just an engine stall. (RPM was 0, is the big clue there)
engine RPM = 0 is a stall.
cause by gross misfire, The PCM does many things to stop all stalls.
but cant correct gross misfire, it cant.
top reasons on jeeps is....

or the JEEP ASD relay dropped you out)
btw: ever get a tune up this decade or every 60k miles?
if not , why not?

There are all these ways for the ASD relay to drop.
here are all ASD causes.

http://www.fixkick.com/Jeeps/ASD.html

there are tests for each drop logic path..
many are simple, did the SKIM lamp glow?
what I do after a real tune up is.

connect a scan tool and drive.
and bam, communications failure, you lost 12vdc power to the PCM.
bad 12v power. (loose fuses to PCM?) battery cable lugs GREEN?

or you get DTC errors. live or pending or freeze frame seen.
got DTCs?, BINGO.

The PCM even tells you ASD pin errors.
bad ignition coil (s)?
etc.

This sounds like multiple things. You do have a vacuum leak, it also sounds like the EGR valve is stuck. There is no reason to be replacing thermostats that often.

check chiltons manuals, they usually have wiring diagrams in the back of them to show you all you need. its hard to find online ones. you always have to pay for those ones

check that the EGR valve is not sticking or has a vacuum leak. This valve will not operate until the engine is warm.

check also the engine coolant temp sensor (ECT). This sensor tells the engine computer that the engine has warmed up, so if it is faulty, it could be sending wrong information to the computer. If the sensor is disconnected, wires to it broken, or faulty in full cold mode, it will tell the computer that the engine is very cold, like -40F. The computer will schedule fuel for cold conditions. This is usually way too much fuel for a warm engine and it will rich misfire, idle rough, and be difficult to start warm.

The ECT has two wires going to it and is dedicated to sending information to the engine computer. It has nothing to do with your dash gauge that shows coolant temp. That sender has only one wire and is dedicated to the coolant temp gauge.

I had a similar issue once. It turned out that the distributor shaft was very slightly bowed. When the engine would warm up the distributor shaft would flex more thus throwing off the timing. I had to replace the distributor.

P0301 - Cylinder 1 misfire detected........P0302 - Cylinder 2 misfire deteced, and so on........so either it is a current misfire, which you would be running on 4 cylinders instead of 3, or it is an intermittent problem.......i will provide some possiblities,,,
- ignition system (spark plugs, leads, coil packs)
- fuel system (injectors, ecu etc)
- running out of fuel
- low compression

Basically, if your vehciel has not had service for a while, change the spark plugs, and engine oil, and give her some loving, tender care....

However, if it is regularly servicedm there might be a bigger problem.....

More info required to help you.

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Replace the IAC. Idle Air Control Valve.

it might be getting to much fuel check the fuel screw

check fuel for pressur and quantati to fuel rail posable fuel pump or regulator