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Daryl Barton Posted on Feb 26, 2018
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1996 Blazer is bucking and eventually stalling.

After having the gas line replaced on this vehicle I found the fuel line filter was left out. Now the vehicle bucks and stalls after a short time on the road. However, it will start right away, time after time. Could junk in the gas line be plugging the injector(s)? Thank you, Daryl

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JOHN LAPIER

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  • Chevrolet Master 2,602 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 22, 2018
JOHN LAPIER
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Joined: Oct 01, 2010
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I would think the CAT. they tend to clog and make a rattling sound when driving .Seeing you say you did fuel lines witch is another issue with the vehicle in a snowy part of the country they rust out but your fuel pump must be working because who ever replaced the line would have known if the pump was bad they last 10 years then you have to up grade to the new pumps I'm not going to get in to that now.The only other thing it could be is the fuel regulator in witch case just replace all of the injectors and the regulator comes as a unit .But I think its more then likely the CAT is clogged .

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1118 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 11, 2009

SOURCE: cannot get 1987 chevy van 20 to keep running... stalls out

Best do a fuel pressure test. Should have chg. fuel filter from the get go. The only other filter is on the end of the fuel pump in tank. Bad gas and dirty gas will plug up fuel filter, hense burn pump up.

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jeffbvegas1

Jeff Barton

  • 520 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 15, 2009

SOURCE: 1992 Chevy S10 blazer 4wd (4.3 TBI engine code Z).

Replace ECM

Testimonial: "Thank you for your expert recommendation - right on the mark."

roniecon

Ronny Bennett Sr.

  • 6988 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 23, 2010

SOURCE: bucks and stalls

Need to have it put on a code reader,auto zone can do this for you,for free.

Anonymous

  • 3640 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 22, 2010

SOURCE: 92 lumina apv stalls after sitting short time

here are some signs of a bad fuel pressure regulator: the vehicle runs rough, the engine will not start(usually in morning) MANY TIMES ENGINE STARTS BUT STALLS SHORTLY AFTER STARTING. a bad regulator can result in fouled spark plus, and fuel milage will decrease noticeably. the only cure is to replace regulator. what makes it fail usually it gets a tear in the diafram and it cant maintain fuel pressure. hope this helps toolman,

Anonymous

  • 21 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 07, 2010

SOURCE: 2000 Impala ls car runs fine when first start.

There are NO choke coils on your vehicle, so don't bother looking for something that doesn't exist, just like there is NO carb on your engine. What you have is either a 3.4 or 3.8 liter V-6, sequential multi-port fuel injected engine.

The first thing you should do is replace the fuel filter. This is located underneath your vehicle, in front of the rear suspension. You will need a 10mm socket or wrench to remove the bolt that holds on the mounting bracket for the fuel filter. You will then need to push the fuel line forward towards the filter, while you are pushing in the white plastic retaining clips, then while holding them him, continue to hold the filter with one hand, while pulling back the line with the other, It should easily come off. Repeat for the other line. I recommend this as the first step, because many vehicle owners don't bother to get their fuel filter changed as often as they should. It should be changed at least every 24,000 miles.

Drive the vehicle and see if that took care of the problem. If not, you most likely have a bad fuel pump, which is mounted in the fuel tank, a bad fuel pressure regulator, which is mounted on the fuel rail on the engine, it is usually black with a vacuum line going to the top of it, and you may also have a catalytic converter that is starting to go bad, as once they heat up is usually when the internal grid expands and can begin blocking the exhaust.

This may all seem overwhelming to you, but an easier solution might be for you to take it so a reputable shop and have them run diagnostics on it, with you then bringing home and doing the repair yourself to save on parts and labor. Diagnostic fees could run slightly less than $100, to slightly more than that, but could save you from buying and replacing parts that you don't need.

Hope this helps.

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  1. Consider the complexity of your car before beginning and take your car to a trusted repair shop. Modern cars (mid-nineties or later) are extremely computer controlled, and it will be difficult for you to make any adjustments. You will want to take it into the shop to address this problem.
  2. The stall is likely caused by either a problem in the electrical system or in the fuel system. Your engine stops running because it is not igniting gas in the cylinders, this occurs either because there isn't gas to ignite, or because it lacks the electrical charge to ignite it.
  3. Drive the car up and down steep hills. Does this change the performance of the engine, or cause it to stall? This might indicate a clogged fuel filter. Replacing the fuel filter is relatively cheap and easy once you find out where it's located.
  4. Does the car idle roughly and stall when at idle? If your car has a distributor, you may need to adjust the timing. With the right tools and know how, this is an easy and free task. If your vehicle has fuel injection, you can check the injector by using a screw driver or mechanics scope. The injectors will make a clicking/snapping sound if working. No sound would indicate a bad injector available at most DIY auto parts stores. Also check the ICM, idle control motor that controls the air mixture.
  5. If your car has a distributor, you might consider changing the cap, rotor, wires and plugs. This is effectively a tune up. This can usually be done even by a relative novice to car repair, and take a couple of hours with the right tools. It seems counterintuitive, but even the wires and distributor decay over time, and transmit less electricity. This tune up may solve your stalling problem -- even if not, your car should run better and get better mileage.
  6. If your car diesels when you turn off the ignition, it often signals the need to replace the spark plugs. Dieseling describes the situation where you turn off the key, yet the car continues to run for a few seconds or longer, eventually sputtering to a stop.
  7. In rare cases, your car may stall due to what is commonly called a "vapor lock". It is actually a vacuum in the fuel line that causes fuel to eventually stop reaching the engine. Try opening your gas cap. If you hear a "whooshing" sound, like when you open a can of coffee, it's vapor lock. Now try starting the car. It should work after a couple tries. This is usually found only in older cars. If you have it, this will probably happen again, so your fuel line should be checked for blockage. A cheap fix is to drill a small hole in your gas cap to allow air in and prevent the vacuum from forming, but it should not be left this way.
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