Car stalling, kicking back on acceleration at 25 - 35 miles speed
Last year I had my timing belt, water pump and catalytic converter replaced- that is painful the cost of getting all three done at the same time!!
Anyway a few days later I started noticing, (from stop light) on acceleration the car stalls or it feels like the engine kicks back. This occurs mostly around speed 25-35 miles/hr. The car is fine at higher speeds.
I have got a bunch of suggestion that states it could be a vacuum leak, a serious transmission problem, timing belt needs to be readjusted.
Any suggestions that will fix the problem without going into expensive repairs.
Re: car stalling, kicking back on acceleration at 25 - 35...
It sounds like the timing is off a tooth to me too. I changed the head gasket on my 1996 ford ranger and when I put it back together I suffered a major loss in acceleration power, but the dam thing idled fine and ran fine. So to make a long story short after checking all kinds of things it wound up being that when I put engine back together I missed the timing by one tooth on the timing cog.
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Bad Oxygen sensor. Possibly _also_ bad catalytic converter. If less than (roughly) 70,000 miles, the converter is likely good. But your symptoms are 100% consistent with a bad oxygen sensor (which are sometimes attached directly to the catalytic converter). // Note: If you do need a catalytic converter, have it done at the Dealership. The ''muffler shops'' will install a generic (probably ''ceramic'') replacement, which could adversely affect performance, gas mileage, and _definitely_ not last more than a few years.
your statement that you disconnected the o2 sensor and all is fine tells you where the problem lies . It is in the o2 sensors . First up there are 2 different sensors in the system The one before the cat converter is a heated sensor (HO2S) while the one after the converter is only a O2S sensor . Two different sensors for two different applications and two different parameters that the ECM and CPU have to contend with. IF you did not use the correct tool to remove and replace the sensors then there is a distinct possibility that the wires have been damaged
The fault code P0420 is caused by the catalytic converter falling below minimum efficiency level as measured by the catalytic converter monitor sensor (similar to an O2 sensor, but different function). The cat is not covered for 120,000 miles. Here is the correct information on the warranty of the catalytic converter. The Federal Emission Warranty covers that part for a period of 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever occurs first. So you are out by years in service and by miles.
Replace the timing belt at 90,000 miles or 10 years. Considering it is already 11 years old, replace it now. Warning: This is an interference engine. If the belt breaks you will have serious internal engine damage. The water pump is also driven by the cam belt so it is advisable to replace it at the same time you replace the cam belt in order to save labor cost later on when the pump fails. The pump will not last 180,000 miles so replace it now.
catalytic converter will be red hot when problem is most evident.May also be bad connection at intake boots or the intake itself spray soapy water solution at all vacuum points engine will bog down/stall if leak is present.
yes it very possible because the catalytic converter is part of the emissions and you need to ask yourself when was the last time you had a good tuneup drive belt,sparks and wires if needed and a fuel filter and a pvc valve.