Feels like transmission is slipping in slow steady speeds, usually right around 40. Changed the spark plug, reset the light, it popped right back on. Also checked and it is not stuck open. Actually getting a little better gas milage now. But don't want to ruin my engine. Whats next.
The problem is your coil
SOURCE: check engine light is on.
Turn the key from off to on 5 times and the van will display the P codes on the odometer display. Google those codes and you should find the cause of you problem or an indication of where to start anyway. Some codes don't go away until you unplug the battery.
SOURCE: 2002 stratus stuttering on takeoff and while driving
you can have the engine light checked at auto zone or advance auto but check the cam position sensor
SOURCE: check engine light
Had the same codes on my truck. cat converter was plugged. I was told to take the cat off and gut it, then put it back on and it would run fine, but that didn't work. You need a new cat. Might want to replace the o2 sensors before and after the cat also. Hope this helps.
SOURCE: Check engine light
A multi misfire may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Faulty spark plug or wires, Faulty coil (pack), Faulty oxygen sensor(s), Faulty fuel injector(s), Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages, Faulty camshaft position sensor, Defective computer.
The engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wire, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the the problems were faulty fuel injectors.
Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open.
Good luck and hope this information helps, keep me posted, be glad to help you get the truck running 100% again. Not sure if your running a K&N air filter, and if you are there may be a flim of oil on the MAF sensor that is making you run lean. You may want to spray down the MAF sensor with a can of MAF cleaner.
SOURCE: MIL indicates cylinder misfire on 1, 3, and 5
Check for
vacuum leaks on intake manifold,
the air tube between the air filter.
intake manifold vacuum hose.
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clean throttle plate with Berryman carburator cleaner
SEE sample picture HERE
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Also remove carbon built up behind the EGR valve and the EGR passage tube.
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Vacuum leak WILL offset the intended 14.7 to 1 air fuel ratio.
More un-metered air (leaks) will lean out the fuel mixture.
Use small amount of Berryman carb clearer at potential air leak area will help you identify trouble spot.
At idle,just spray and listen for the RPM surge.
The in-rush of carb clearer will increase the RPM on the motor.
Record the problem spot(s) and address it later.
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EGR carbon built up require 2+ hours to clean from start to finish.
You will need a new EGR base gasket before your start.
Locate and remove the EGR valve after the vehicle is cool down.
Carefully record the connector and vacuum line (for older vehicle) location by drawing an easily to follow diagram.
Remove the EGR valve.
Inspect the location of the carbon built-up inside the valve and the EGR passage tube.
SOAK these areas with WD-40 spary.
You will need a small screwdriver,cloth hanger and lot of newspaper and time to get this cleaning done right.
RE-SOAK the carbon and let it sit for over-night will also help.
One the last round,pass a shop vacuum of the EGR valve and the passage pipe.
Install the new EGR gasket and connectors.
Allow the vehicle to warm up outdoor to burn up any remaining WD-40.
Take it for a test drive.
Please rate my answer if it's useful to you.
Cheers,
Mustgo
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