- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
while they might measure the same length , what you have to watch for is the tail shaft hitting under the floor at full deflection of the diff if it is not independent suspension
If the diff id mounted to the body then the next problem is the length of the one piece shaft
If the shaft is too long they tend to bend in the middle under load ( acceleration or high speed) and to overcome this the shaft is made in two pieces
All tail shafts have a maximum length for manufacture ( hardie spicer page on the net will have the specifications)
As it is cheaper to make a one piece shaft, there is an engineering reason why the extra expense of a two piece shaft is used
if you have a 99 Suzuki vitara 2.0 it came with a 2 piece drive shaft that is hard to find. it has a center piece that hold it together. I had my drive shaft made into a 1 piece---it's doing find
The oil pump shaft is driven by the distributor. If a broken piece of the oil pump shaft is still lodged in the distributor drive socket you may have to remove the distributor to remove the broken piece. Normally there is no retainer keeping the shaft inserted into the distributor drive socket. So when the oil pump is removed the shaft will typically slide, or fall out.
When you took it apart did you "match mark" the joints so that it went back together the same? If not then your driveshaft is probably out of balance. Any driveline shop can correct this. By match marking I mean that you make a mark on each piece of the driveshaft so that when you put it back together the pieces are in the same position relative to each other. If one piece got put back 180 degrees out, it can cause the whole shaft to become unbalanced.
HI!!
Here are some diagrams for the 3 different drive shaft axles that came with this truck. Click on the following link for step by step instructions and pictures on removal and installation of the drive shaft. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8038ead8
Good Luck!! Don't forget to rate this post!!
SLIP YOKE DRIVE SHAFT
SLIP YOKE TWO-PIECE DRIVE SHAFT
FIXED YOKE TWO-PIECE DRIVE SHAFT
You will need to remove the hanger for the steady bearing because the one piece can hit on it, especially if you put something in the box. Other than that, it shouldn't be a problem if you can find one the right length. Hope this helps.
I have had to change this switch. You probably got the dash torn apart down to the piece that the knob on the light switch will keep you from getting that piece off? yes? There is a pin on the light switch frame that has to be depressed. Once you do that, you can pull the knob and shaft out of the switch assembly. After that, the plastic panel will come off and you can R & R the switch. Save that shaft and knob, you will need it for the new switch, unless the new switch uses a different size shaft arragement. Then you may have to but a corresponding shaft/knob assembly. I made the mistake of slicing the knob in half with a Dremel cutter and had to buy a new knob for the shaft.
I have a '88 Ranger XLT extra cab 4X4 w/auto tranny (2.9L V6) that had a 2-piece driveshaft on it. After adding a 4" suspension lift, there was a strong vibration whenever I took off from a dead stop. I replaced the drive shaft with a beefed up 1 piece custom built by a shop specializing in drive shafts. The truck no longer had any vibration, and it hooks up immediately on exceleration. I found the shop on Ebay advertising drive shafts. All I had to do was measure the length from the transfer case/Tranny to the rear differential. The length of the new drive shaft allowed me to adjust almost 3/4" so all I had to do was get it close. I also took close up pictures so the shop could match up the correct flange on both ends of the driveshaft. The last thing I had to do was flip the crossmember brace so it wouldn't interfere with the new drive shaft.
×