1995 Subaru impreza clutch not fully disengaging. Don't see any master of slave cylinders? Adjusted clutch adjustment screw. That fixed it for a few days. Adjusted again, almost the whole way. Worked for a few days again but went back to 'draging' the clutch. I have to turn the key off, put in in reverse then kill the car and put it into first gear then I can drive but it's getting to the point where the clutch is all the way to the floor and the clutch plates are still partially engaged so when you come to a stop and your in gear the car almost dies.

SOURCE: 95 subaru impreza ;speedometer quit,engine light stays on

seems like speed sensor transmission ,

SOURCE: Knocking/juddering when taking off in first gear subaru impreza 1

Sounds like warped fly wheel.

SOURCE: 1995 subaru impreza wrx sti overboost problem

Do you have a manual boost controller (mbc) installed? I have a 96 WRX and had the same problem and so took out the MBC. It now runs sweet. If you don't have one check the vacuum hoses from the turbo to the wastegate and also to the boost control solenoid, make sure they are tightened with cable ties or a hose clamp.  Also could be your spark plugs make sure you have iridium ones, they out perform any others.

Brandon Johnson

• 253 Answers
• Posted on Aug 13, 2009

SOURCE: 97 Subaru Impreza Outback Wagon Occasionally Will Not Start

Hello, I was a Subaru tech for a few years and I agree w/ the other tech about the bad starter. Subaru starters are known for this exact kind of behavior when they are close to the end of their life. Forgive me, but I have to assume that everyone I help knows nothing about cars. You sound like the kind of person that is not convinced until you know exactly what is happening, So here's the breakdown. What happens, is when the starter engages the internal motor causing it to rotate. the positive and negative points (Brushes) make physical contact w/ a cylindrical shaft w/ separated plates providing power and ground to the copper wire windings surrounded by permanent magnets. Considering the enormous drag/load on this system from the engines resistance to rotate due to each compression stroke, a very high peak Amperage is channeled only through those two little brush contacts. They continuously spark inside of the starter, eating away at the brush contacts until they eventually wear away causing them to ground out. What's most likely happening w/ your starter is that whenever you start the vehicle, occasionally, by chance or (kind of like a roulette table) the brush contacts land on one or more of these grounded out spots. Even when you try to start the vehicle and nothing happens, the starter is still being influenced by amperage is trying to turn past this dead spot only very very very very slowly. This is why after you try to start it a few times it will eventually start, especially when you let it sit your actually letting the starter cool down. The more you try to start the vehicle the more the starter will become useless. The easiest test we techs have come up w/ when we get a no start concern, is to go out to the vehicle w/ a 3ft long bar, have someone sit in the vehicle and try starting it. If the starter brush contacts are stuck on a dead spot, we give the starter a good thud and if the starter starts working immediately we know it needs one. Some times it takes a few bonks to get it to work. If the starter is too far gone however, this test will not work and other procedures need to be performed in order to rule out all else as the cause for the concern. I hope this info helps...(subytech1)

SOURCE: I have a 1995 subaru impreza. I cant get the

There is a locking solenoid under the plastic shroud around you shifter. When you put on your brake the solenoid is supposed to pull back to release the shifter.
The buzzing you are hearing is that solenoid trying to pull back. Going to have to replace it.

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