When car idles seems normal deisel noise, push auto air con noise gets louder. Also makes similar noise when going up slight incline, put foot down and noise goes. mileage 19000km

you might need to do a idle relearn procedure. Since you done replaced the valve.
You can reset the idle air control (IAC) valve by turning the car on, putting the car into park, pressing the brake down, then pushing the gas pedal down, counting down about 5 seconds, turning the car off, waiting 10 seconds and start the car again, checking to see if the car is idling properly.

dear . it seam like had leakage air from turbo pipe or air cooler
at turbo line .

this is normal as there is clearance built into the parking pawl in the transmission to make it easier to go from park to a gear. I`m guessing this happens when you put the car in park on a slight incline. if you walk up to any car and push against it when its in park it will roll slightly until the clearance is taken up in the parking pawl, this is the clearance that you have.

It is normal for the idle to increase when the air con is switched on. There is a fuse in the engine compartment - I-UP (idle up)

If its a knocking sound:

A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

The drive belt tensioner pulleys are much more common.

tighten all the pulleys and replace the belt. get a tune up.

Pull the engine accessory drive belt off and check the pulley bearing and the nose of the water pump and AC compressor for play, this may be the AC compressor pulley bearing or the water pump pulley bearing

this noise is a vacuum leak at the power brake vacuum booster due to a tear in the booster vacuum diaphragm, u should have this replaced ASAP, it the leak gets worse the brakes will become very hard to push and will limit your ability to make a safe and timely stop.

Matt, sounds like a suspension or exhaust noise. Grab onto exhaust (engine cold) at several locations (car supported securely so u don't get crushed) and wiggle, tug pull, kick, etc to see if u can get it to make any noise from hitting anything. Look for evidence of the exhaust rubbing against something, by looking for shiny metal due to contact w/ something. Also push up and down on the body of the car as violently as possible to simulate going over bumps. Pay close attention to heat shields around or on the exhaust system, if they are loose, they will make a racket.
And, as I said, possibly the suspension is making the noise, but not as likely, pushing up and down on the car body as described above might reproduce the noise. If it isn't the exhaust (my 1st choice), give me more clues if u can. good luck countrycurt0