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Re: how to change slave cylinder on f 250 2008
Easy job, its located on the bell housing (it actuates the clutch lever to throwout bearing inside transmission). 1. Remove hydraulic line 2.remove mounting bolts. 3.slide slave cylinder out of bellhousing 4. installation is reverse or removal. 5. bleed air out of slave cylinder
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Does the car want to pull when sitting still in gear with your foot on the clutch? If so, I would say that your clutch is not fully engaging and could be the cause of your grinding when changing gears. If not then I would think the clutch is operating fully and the synchros are worn and need replaced. But either way, with metalic fluid being in the slave cylinder dust boot, the slave cylinder needs changed.
Check the hydraulic clutch operation. This is a clutch master cylinder with a reservoir on the firewall, and a clutch slave cylinder down on the bell housing of the transmission, with a steel tube running from the master to the slave cylinder. When clutch pedal is depressed, hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) is forced from the master to the slave. The slave cylinder should push out a little plunger that contacts the clutch fork lever-pushing it forward to engage the clutch.
Add brake fluid to the reservoir if needed. Watch the plunger on the slave cylinder: if it moves little, or not enough, try bleeding the slave from the bleeder valve. They are bled just like brakes. If bleeding doesn't help, your clutch master or the slave may need replacing. The master cylinder, like a brake master, has internal seals that hold hydraulic pressure, so force can be applied to the plunger on the slave cylinder.
First thing to do is to see if you have a clutch slave cylinder or cable operated clutch. Second the slave cylinder is on the end of the lever that goes into the clutch housing Before you change the clutch make sure that the problem is not in the slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder or cable as the case may be.
Master and Slave cylinder will not require often replacements
until they replaced it with some cheap ones. With new master and slave, you
still need to bleed the system to make sure there is not any air bubbles present
in the system that might prevent it from proper functioning.
it could be either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder,it could also be the clutch pressure plate check the master & slave cylinders first because if it's the pressure plate the gear box will have to be removed to replace the pressure plate, even if you are uncertain it is most likely cheaper to replace the master & slave cylinders than it would be to replace the pressure plate.....hope this helps......cheers.
Remove the bolts holding the slave cylinder to the transmission. Disconnect the hydraulic hose. Reconnect hydraulic hose to new slave cylinder, and install the slave cylinder in it's original position.
Now proceed to bleed the line through the slave cylinder until a solid stream of fluid comes through, and the pedal pressure becomes firm.
Bleeding the clutch is similar to bleeding brakes. You'd pump the clutch pedal several times to get the pressure up, and then open the bleeder on the slave cylinder (mounted down on the transmission). Repeat and add fluid as needed until no air comes out.
Two things - first off, some cars have more than one bleed point (the Nissan 300ZX is one of those), so be sure there is only the slave cylinder to bleed. Second, if it went right to the floor, something failed - either the slave cylinder or the master cylinder. Changing the slave is relatively easy - usually two bolts and it comes off, you put on a new one, and bleed it as described above. Often the slave cylinder is less than $30, so it's worth it to try changing it if you can't get the pedal to come back off the floor on its own. A clutch master is significantly more expensive and more difficult to change, so start cheap and easy and replace the slave cylinder if you can't pump the pedal to get pressure built up for a bleed.