Question about 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
My 99 jeep cherokee just had the drive shaft sheer off at the rear end not the u joints but the shaft going into the rear end just sheered off. what is the best most economical way to repair this?
Well first of all take it easy on the burnouts! ha ha. if you sheared the yoke thats a simple fix, youll just have to replace the pinion seal and the nut might be jammed on there pretty good so your going to need an impact wrench and of course a new yoke. and i would have the driveline checked before re-installing, just because it didnt break doesnt mean its not torqued. once you replace the yoke and pinon seal install the drivline and youre good to go. however if you torqued the pinion gear any its game over bro, and repairing the rear end is going to be beyond your skills. (in order to re set, shim and square the rear end you need to be a skilled mechanic, no guess work, no doing it out of a repair manual) hope this helps, good luck
Posted on Mar 08, 2012
At least you have the 4 liter 6. Once you get all the **** out of the way its like replacing a W/P on an "old school" engine, very much like a Ford or Chevy straight 6. 1) Remove radiator top retainer (the metal U that looks like its the top of the radiator (#13 or 14mm sockets I think). 2) To completely get if off you also have to remove the grill (4-6 phillips screws), then 3) unbolt it from the tubular bumper retainers underneath the grill. 4) DO NOT remove the latch cable - no need. 5) Remove the top bolts holding down the fan shroud. Lift the shroud off its bottom "tabs" and push over the fan. 6) Using #10mm socket remove fan from fan clutch, then remove bolts holding fan clutch onto water pump pulley. 7) Pull out shroud, then fan, then fan clutch. Be very patient, lots of wiggling may be needed. 8) Locate belt tensioner on idler puller below the Power steering pump. Losen very little the pulleys center bolt (10mm), then use a 10mm w/entension to losen the pulley's tension (use counter clockwise/normal rotation to losen). 9) Draw a diagram of the belt routing - you will Never remember it correctly otherwise. 10) Tap the w/p pully and pull if off - do not hit radiator fins! 11) Drain the radiator (clockwise/right rotation opens petoc from factory radiators - counterclock used on aftermaket rads). 12) Remove lower raditor hose at radiator, then at pump (it will be a challenge). 13) Remove upper radiator hose from rad and from thermostat housing. 14) losen the Rubber heater hose from the metal hose screwed into the W/P. 15) Remove 4 bolts from W/P (13 or 14mm I think). The one at the 4oclock position is longer than the others. One is hidden at 6oclock.
16) Remove 2 bolts (14-15mm??) on bottom of Power Steering mount - these go through the W/P case to the block. You may also need to losen the top PS bolts so the PS Bracket can be loose at the W/P case. 17) Wiggle the W/P out from under the PS bracket. and pull off. (16b if needed, remove the upper idler pulley near the A/C unit.) 18) Remove the Thermostat (upper hose return) housing. Scrape off old gasket. Replace with 160deg or 190deg thermostat. Use silicone on gasket. 19) Carefully use a 17 or 19mm box wrench to remove the metal heater hose return line from the upper part of the old water pump. Coat threads with spark plug thread antiseize and screw onto new W/P. 20) Install new W/P gasket w/silcone, be careful to Not block the water holes. 21) Slide W/P under the P/S bracket and jiggle into place. Hand thread one of the top bolts to hold the W/P in place. 22) Insert the P/S bracket bolts and lightly tighten. 23) Jiggle W/P around and insert other bolts, start with the 6oc hidden bolt. Add remaining bolts and tighten to 25 or 250?ftlb (about 3/4 past socket-snug). 24) Tighten ALL P/S bolts. 25) Adjust metal heater pipe. Reinstall rubber heater hose. 26) Reinstall W/P pulley and Fan clutch, and upper idler if it was removed. 27) Thread NEW Belt on pulleys. 28) Tighten tension on idler. Tighten idler axle bolt. 29) Install lower rad hose. 30) Slide shroud over pulleys. 31) Install fan on clutch. 32) Clip shroud retainer bolt mounts back on top of radiator. 33) Install shroud. 34) Connect upper hose. 35) Reinstall radiator retainer. 36) Bolt retainer to Tubular bumper mounts. 37) Reinstall grill. 38) Wonder where the extra bolts etc are supposed to go. 39) Cuss - pray -cuss - pray. 40 ) sip some beer. 41) carefully inspect everything to ensure its back to the way it looked before (several pictures from a digital camera taken during the disassembly will help). 42) Close the rad petok. 43) Add 1 gallons of antifreeze. 44) Start engine and add another gallon of A/F. 45) Turn heater controls to HOT inside (no need for fan). 46) Water guage should show 180 to 210F. 47) Add 1 gallon of water. 48) Install New 18PSI rad cap. 49) Turn off engine and add water or A/F to overflow tank. 50) 1 hour later open Cap to see if level has settled. Add Water as needed to fill rad.
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
check the differential fluid in the rear differential. if the fluid is low, add fluid and see if the noise is still there, if the fluid level is ok see if the fluid appears metallic, if it is metallic looking or excessively thick it would be a good idea to have the bearings checked out. i am in the process of rebuilding a front differential on a 98 jeep grand cherokee for the same problem. the bearings inside the differential on the carrier and pinion gear were worn out causing a humming noise. if the wear is excessive the gears might also need to be replaced
Posted on Feb 17, 2009
The only parts you need are the ball joints, upper and lower, a total of 4, if you need all 4. As far as tools, you'll need wrenches, a removal and installer tool, the ball joints are pressed into the control arms, and a ball joint to steering knuckle seperator tool.Without those special tools, you will never get them changed, if you do it yourself.
Posted on Mar 12, 2009
'dont remember any. Be sure you have the joint square with the knuckle when installing... If it cocks to one side, it will jam. take care not to damage the boot. When using fork, it can damage stuff . I refrain from using it as much as possible, using a good sized hammer and giving a shot on the side of pin recievers (like where tie rod end goes through arm on knuckle) this saves tearing tie rod end boot. When in doubt get a manual...any more questions, ask!!
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
the best coolant is by far is the MOPAR/JEEP OEM coolant, next to that I would use Prestone brand long life coolant type..
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
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