I have many problems so here goes
1. the car takes a very long time to heat up had the thermostat changed the fan works it just takes forever for it to go on.
2. the lights on the dash work when the feel like it
3. cant get the radio to go into safe mode nothing appears
4. oil light goes on and makes this beeping noise that makes me want to just crash the car around 2000 rpms then if i step on the gas it goes off
5. the engine light is on
cant pass emissions these are my readings im guessing its o2 sensor
ASM2525 TEST curb idle test
limit reading limit reading
HC ppm 66 192 fail 200 247 fail
CO% 0.37 3.61 fail 1.00 5.99 fail
NO ppm 505 15 pass
6. also the hose at the top of the rad feels like its only got air in it im not sure if its suppose to be filled with coolant or what?
any help would be greatly appreciated thank you
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Oxygen will feed fire, especially in a devil car, so u only have one O2 sensor, located under the devil car, passenger side, below seating area, in front of the catalytic converter, mounted in the exhaust pipe.
dj_shane007, here's some info on 02 sensor, hope it helps
xygen Sensor
Volkswagen Golf/Jetta/Cabriole 1990-1999
TESTING
OPERATION
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
OPERATION
Apply an antisieze compound to the threads of the oxygen sensor before reinstalling it
Use an oxygen sensor socket or an open end wrench to remove the sensorThe
oxygen (O2) sensor is a device which produces an electrical voltage
when exposed to the oxygen present in the exhaust gases. The sensor is
mounted in the exhaust system, usually in the manifold or a boss
located on the down pipe before the catalyst. The oxygen sensors used
on many VW models are electrically heated internally for faster
switching when the engine is started cold. The oxygen sensor produces a
voltage within 0 and 1 volt. When there is a large amount of oxygen
present (lean mixture), the sensor produces a low voltage (less than
0.4v). When there is a lesser amount present (rich mixture) it produces
a higher voltage (0.6–1.0v).The stoichiometric or correct fuel to air
ratio will read between 0.4 and 0.6v. By monitoring the oxygen content
and converting it to electrical voltage, the sensor acts as a rich-lean
switch. The voltage is transmitted to the ECU.
TESTING
A portable, hand held, oscilloscope can be purchased through professional tool suppliers and makes a great diagnostic tool.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATIONTo
test the oxygen sensor, do not disconnect the wiring harness but insert
a back-probe or other devise such as a paper clip into the rear of the
wiring harness at terminal # 4 on 93–99 VW's. This wire is the signal
wire.Using a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) measure the oxygen
sensors output by connecting the positive lead of the DVOM to the #4
terminal and the negative lead to a good ground.Make sure all testing equipment is clear of any moving parts and then start the vehicle.
Within
a few minutes the oxygen sensor should begin producing voltage. At idle
this reading should be between 0.3 and 1.0 volts. The reading should
fluctuate!If the oxygen sensor output is out of range, you
will have to test the sensors heating element. This can be accomplished
by turning the engine off and disconnecting the four (4) pin harness.Perform
a test for battery voltage at terminals one (1) and two (2) of the
connector. This once again must be performed with the engine running.
The resistance should be approximately 2 ohms.If the oxygen sensor signal is not as specified, replace the sensor.
To install:Disconnect the negative battery cable and place it away from the battery's post.
Detach the oxygen sensor electrical wiring harness.
Using
a oxygen sensor socket (sold at most parts warehouses) of a closed end
wrench of comparable size, loosen the sensor from the exhaust.Remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust.
The sensor is threaded into the catalytic converter or the exhaust pipe with an anti-seize compound on the threads.To install simply thread the sensor into the exhaust and tighten.
NOTEWhen replacing it, be careful not to get anti-seize in the slots of the outer shield. Tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
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Let's start with air in the hose. When you changed the thermostat you have to bleed the system to remove this air. IF you don't the thermostat won't ever come on. The air pulsing in the hose IS NOT NORMAL. Do you know how to bleed the system??
The oil light. First check if the oil level in the car is good. If yes check the oil pressure. You need a gauge. Make sure to simulate the problem and test the pressure when the light comes on. If the pressure is good 2 options. First defective oil pressure switches very cheap to replace. sometimes you can even buy lower pressure ones that won't make the light come on. OR the oil grade is too thin. Try a 10w30 instead of 5 w30 thicker oil will cause less drop in hot oil pressures.
The cluster lights. Most probally a bad connection in the cluster. Losts of " A3 " body clusters were able to be repared but you need to do it right. It is printed board.
The radio. Check and find the radio fuse. Under the steering wheel a little to the left. If the radio fuses are good check for power and ground at the radio. If all is good radio needs to be replaced as the face probally got loose.
For the engine light have a garage pas a scanner cause it can be related to alot of things other than an O2 sensor. You'll save money by knowing what it is and not guessing.
Few ways to do this. First is the garage method with an actual vacuum that pulls all air out and creates the hoses to collapse. Once vacuum is obtained we close the valve on the pump and fill the closed system with coolant.
The DIY way is to open the reservoir bowl cap. Start the car. Let it run with no cap until the lower radiator hose begins getting hot. The upper hose will get hot first. Basically when the lower hose gets hot this is a sign the thermostat is opening. When you feel the lower hose heating up add coolant to the fill line and little above in the bowl. And reinstall the radiator cap making sure the seal in the cap is not twisted or deformed. This is also a cause for overheating as the cap doesn't build pressure. If you have alot of air the coolant might overflow while you are trying to do this so be extremely cautious not to get burned and watch the temperature. If you see the lower hose is not heating but coolant is bubbling hot out of the bowl shut off the car and let it rest. Air will escape at this time and the engine will cool. Might take a few attempts to get all the air out. If the air keeps bubbling in the upper hose keeps bubbling and you cannot get the air out might want to have a professional try because sometimes we have other related problems like head gaskets and the air is just continiously created and impossible to bleed.
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an exorcism might help :)
i actually dont know how to bleed the system but thank you for all your help i will try that as soon as i can
anyone know how many o2 sensors are in this car? 1994 vw golf 2.0l gl
i was trying to bleed the coolant but i read that with these cars that the proper way is to pull the top rubber hose off the rad and fill it there to get the air out is that true or silly? and another thing does anyone think the o2 sensor will drop my numbers enough to pass emissions? or are they high enought there is likely something else?
--------------ASM2525 TEST -----------------curb idle test
--------------limit/ reading--------------------- limit/ reading
HC ppm --66 /192 fail ----------------------200 /247 fail
CO%-----0.37/ 3.61 fail --------------------1.00/ 5.99 fail
NO ppm 505 /15 pass
these are my emissions readings
i have the same problem. is it essential to put "anit-seize" onto the threads?
I have a VW Cabrio 1996. Its very similar to the Golf, so i assumed it only had one sensor.
Stay away from the devil car on Oct. 31.
Have you tried a priest?
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