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The first sign of the problem was a flat battery after few days of non-use.Further investigation indicates that the engine system circuit is not shutting down when the ignition is turned off.This is evident in that the relay is not powering down and resetting and as a result the engine management components continue to draw power.However, if the Engine System Relay (in the Main Fuse Box) is disconnected and reconnected, or the battery is momentarily disconnected, the circuit shuts down and remains shut down until the ignition switch is powered on.The problem will then reoccur when the ignition switch is turned off. The relay itself is OK, the issue is that the relay is still powered when the ignition switch is switched off.Whatever is activating that relay is not reset until the battery is momentarily disconnected or the relay itself is disconnected and reconnected.
Have you tested the ignition barrel.Its the master control for power distribution etc?Have you tested the ignition barrel.Its the master control for power distribution etc?
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Hi volvo
sounds like an poor earthing problem. in dc circuits offs go to ground, try cleaning up all earths and also look for any lives that may be shorting to the body or chassis
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Be worth checking the battery and connections etc. then confirming starter connections are good before checking any further. May be just a flat / faulty battery. Next would be to get the starter checked
This default is for the transmission operation. The diagnostics detected an out of range condition. It can be a wet electric connector for the shift solenoids, or the flat cable to the trans, or a weak ground. Even an early indication of problems with the Torque Converter lock-up.
The further check will involve taking electric resistance measurements when the connector plug is apart.
You can try using an electrical cleaner and reconnecting the plug. Check ground straps for corrosion.
Clear the computer and drive it for effect. If it comes back on you will need to investigate deeper.
Have the fault codes read. Replace faulty items. Use only genuine items as replacement as non-genuine are not always compatible with the OEM fitted CPU units. This results in the fault codes not cancelling out. Check out the reason for over heating and fix that as well. It is possible that the cpu is reprogramming it self as it scans the sensors the same way it does if you replace the battery or have a flat battery for a few days.
If your battery light indicator went on it indicates that the battery is not charging because of either a dying battery or alternator or both! With the red battery indicator on, the battery will eventually drain out (especially if the alternator is faulty) to the point where it will not provide the required power to the car electrical system ... thus causing it to 'sputter' and eventually die out - a sure sign it that you cannot restart the motor due to a weak of flat battery! Hope it helps you understand the possible problem!
you will need to have the remotes/keys recoded to the car to avoid any further problems, takes about 30 mins....dont forget to put new batteries in the remotes before you take it in...
I had a similar issue and started to notice other electrical failures along with the gas gauge. My rear doors would not lock and my rear wiper stopped working. I started pulling fuses and relays to see if this would reset, no go. But then I hit the jackjpot. In the rear electrical panel, below all the fuses and relays is a 2" x 2" black plastic square with a big screw in it.
Remove the screw and pull evenly on the black square. This seems to be a major electrical hub for the car. I reconnected and all 3 of my issues disappeared...I read somewhere that a fix might be to disconnect the battery for a few minutes, which I guess re-sets some relays and circuits, but I guess this did the same thing. Good luck.
Try the fuel injection relay they are located under the hood. They blow out every few years on my Volvo. The car starts to quit all of the sudden. It is either red or green colored. It is located in the fuse box under the hood.
After a jump start because of no electrical power, the car will run rough for several days (expected) while it adjusts to your driving habits. I'm not sure about the gears, but I'd try to drive with it like that for a few days and see if it returns to normal.
Have you tested the ignition barrel.Its the master control for power distribution etc?
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