2000 olds intrigue... Service codes show P0031 na P0037. I had the MAFS replaced and a new O2 sensor installed. Now, while driving at exactly 4000 rpm, the engine stumles and there is no power. As soon as the rpm drops off to about 3500, it revs back up. The car runs fine during normal city driving at about 30-40 mph. But during a quick takeoff, the car stumbles, and while driving at highway speeds, in order to get over 60mph, you have to put the pedal to the floor. It is using more gas than it should too, but only while driving on the highway. Any thoughts out there?
ok this is what you do when you ever change a sensor in your car.always unhook the battery first and turn the ignition key all the way to start position you know like you are turning over the engine. when you turn it to the start position hold it in the start position for a ten second count and then turn it to the off position. change the sensor then hook your battery back up. and start the car, by unhooking the battery and holding the key over in start position for a ten second count , you cleared all your codes first. this has to be done first because your vehicle has a computer ECM, and its called a brain, well it has to be able to read the new sensor, so always clear your codes first then replace sensor and start the car, if there is anything else out on the car it will turn on the [MILL] LIGHT, also known as the service engine light. some car have a built in OBDII, if they have a digital mileage then turn the key on 3 turns back and fourth and leave the key on .... on the third turn. the digital display will go to a code reading mode and codes will appear so have a pen and paper handy, then some cars have what they call a flash code. when you turn your key on and off and leave it on on the third time. then the service light will blink. just watch the light and count how many times it blinks there should be a pause in the flash until it flashes the next code, so count the blinks each time then go to google and type in vehicle flash codes, then it will go to a web sight where you can type in the number of flashes you got for each code, it will tell you the code and what it means, i hope i helped you out.after codes have been cleared if there is a lght on again then its a true code, do not clear it again until you fix the new code whatever it might be,ok this is what you do when you ever change a sensor in your car.always unhook the battery first and turn the ignition key all the way to start position you know like you are turning over the engine. when you turn it to the start position hold it in the start position for a ten second count and then turn it to the off position. change the sensor then hook your battery back up. and start the car, by unhooking the battery and holding the key over in start position for a ten second count , you cleared all your codes first. this has to be done first because your vehicle has a computer ECM, and its called a brain, well it has to be able to read the new sensor, so always clear your codes first then replace sensor and start the car, if there is anything else out on the car it will turn on the [MILL] LIGHT, also known as the service engine light. some car have a built in OBDII, if they have a digital mileage then turn the key on 3 turns back and fourth and leave the key on .... on the third turn. the digital display will go to a code reading mode and codes will appear so have a pen and paper handy, then some cars have what they call a flash code. when you turn your key on and off and leave it on on the third time. then the service light will blink. just watch the light and count how many times it blinks there should be a pause in the flash until it flashes the next code, so count the blinks each time then go to google and type in vehicle flash codes, then it will go to a web sight where you can type in the number of flashes you got for each code, it will tell you the code and what it means, i hope i helped you out.after codes have been cleared if there is a lght on again then its a true code, do not clear it again until you fix the new code whatever it might be,
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just a suggestion. we had problems with a Dakota similar to yours. startup and warming up , the fuel managment is in Closed Loop Mode. (system ignors O2 sensors) then at Warm and good running temp., the engine Had problems. WE Junked the truck due to distance to overhaul Shop. (Canada/remote area) over looking the tech report. and the Old spark plugs. TIMING chain replacement wud allow the distributer to function in range to control firing advance. = good running at temp with O2 leen mixture.
...old school trik we learned from those old 70's Ford Vans.
( be sure to use the ATF+4 transfluid with the 42re)
Old question that must have been resurrected by spam, but I fixed the dreadful written English tossed in some CAPS and a few SPACES! It looks pretty now.
All questions need full 'year make model', rather than 'year make, engine size'.
Anyway, there is this thing called Google. It knows everything. Here is your first code. Just copy and paste the others in and press enter.
The P0031 code is a result of the bank 1 HO2S1 (pre catalytic converter heated oxygen sensor) heating element having low voltage. Heated O2 sensors have a seperate heater inside the sensor to get them to operating temperature quickly.Oct 1, 2018
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0031 Check for a fuse bing blown , Heater circuit shorted in O2 sensor blowing the fuse , maybe . You don't say what make , model an year vehicle an engine size .
I had a similar problem with my car. It turned out the O2 sensors were fine and the issue was a leak in the throttle body causing the engine to run lean. If you have an ODB2 scanner you can look at fuel trims, etc and will be able to tell.
MAP and O2 sensor are two separate items. MAP, reads manifold pressure, O2 reads exhaust content. O2 sensor often is a false reading not to be ignored but should not be immediately changed till other items are corrected. MAP sensor is often mounted on the firewall and can be identified as having an electrical connector and a vacuum hose attached to it. (ask a parts house to show you one and it will make finding it easier) Check for vacuum leaks in the hose and make sure the hose is well connected at both ends before changing the sensor. You may also want to clean the Mass Air Flow sensor located between the air duct hoses running from the air filter box to the throttle body. There are two small wires inside it that can be cleaned carefully with carb cleaner and a Q tip.If dirty, it can cause idle fluctuations or stalling.
Have you cleared the codes at least once?
The new o2 sensors should have removed all those codes.The sensor closest to the engine b1s1 may be defective.Check wiring and plug to that one closely.
The exhaust was recently replaced as well.
ok this is what you do when you ever change a sensor in your car.always unhook the battery first and turn the ignition key all the way to start position you know like you are turning over the engine. when you turn it to the start position hold it in the start position for a ten second count and then turn it to the off position. change the sensor then hook your battery back up. and start the car, by unhooking the battery and holding the key over in start position for a ten second count , you cleared all your codes first. this has to be done first because your vehicle has a computer ECM, and its called a brain, well it has to be able to read the new sensor, so always clear your codes first then replace sensor and start the car, if there is anything else out on the car it will turn on the [MILL] LIGHT, also known as the service engine light. some car have a built in OBDII, if they have a digital mileage then turn the key on 3 turns back and fourth and leave the key on .... on the third turn. the digital display will go to a code reading mode and codes will appear so have a pen and paper handy, then some cars have what they call a flash code. when you turn your key on and off and leave it on on the third time. then the service light will blink. just watch the light and count how many times it blinks there should be a pause in the flash until it flashes the next code, so count the blinks each time then go to google and type in vehicle flash codes, then it will go to a web sight where you can type in the number of flashes you got for each code, it will tell you the code and what it means, i hope i helped you out.after codes have been cleared if there is a lght on again then its a true code, do not clear it again until you fix the new code whatever it might be,
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