How do I properly bleed the abs brakes on my honda accord 1998. The bleed nipples are on top of the brake calipers.

IF the hand brake activates through the caliper piston unit and it was necessary to screw the piston back in to fit the new pads then you will have to readjust the hand brake .. The may be a bleed nipple on the abs unit . It is not necessary to run the engine to bleed the brakes. IF you used a clamp to push the piston back in then there may be crap in the master cylinder that is affecting the operation of the non-return valve at the outlet of the master-cylinder.

not sure why you are bleeding brakes just with new pad installation? anyway, since you had calipers off, make sure when reinstalled they were not turned 180 degrees. this would put the bleeders on the bottom instead of the top. bleeders on the bottom will never bleed air from calipers. what was the reason you bled calipers after pad installation?

undo the bleed valve (nipple)when turning the clamp bolts,try not to allow any air back into the caliper when doing this,(two people are best doing this )

Please refer to the link below.

http://corp.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/asp/ccr/ccr20011001bb.asp

I’m assuming you got either the factory original ceramic brake pads or at least a decent quality aftermarket ceramic brake pad, not some cheapo semi metallic brake pad, such as Duralast or Raybestos PG’s.

When you replaced them did you properly lube the metal to metal contact points on the calipers? Remember, the pads have to be free floating, otherwise they will not properly engage and disengage from the rotors.

Did possibly some of the caliper lube get on the friction part of the brake pads? Whoops, no friction then. It happens, solution is buy another set, sorry.
Did you bleed all four brakes? Even though the system was not “Opened”, guess what, it already was every time you touch your brakes. The extreme heating and cooling during normal brake operations, even more so on Antilock Braking Systems (ABS ), sucks in moisture through those rubber brake lines and various other connection points. That’s the first reason why you do a quick bleed of the system. The second is to balance out the four wheel braking abilities, if you don’t, as the front wheels start to slow faster then rear, the ABS system releases the front brakes to maintain control.

Its probably how your bleeding your brakes, but first make sure the bleeding nipples are facing upward. You should bleed diagonaly, front pass wheel then rear driver wheel. Then front driver wheel and rear pass wheel. The abs light has its own computer your have to get it scanned to clear the codes and turn off the light

You have to clamp the flexible break hose with the appropriate tool that will not damage hose so that no pressure can go back up the break line when then piston is wound back.You crack the bleed nipple just enough that it only flows out when the pressure from the piston being wound back in pushes it out.Once piston is all the way back in retighten the bleed nipple,reassemble caliper etc and bleed.The reason you vent off fluid this way is not to put back pressure on the ABS,Bleeding the brakes is easier and the worst of the fluid(most stressed)is evacuated from the brake lines.Last thing top up the master cylinder with exactly the same fluid that is in the vehicle.Mixing fluids can be hazardous in respect of the ABS and seals throughout the brake system.When winding your pistons take special care as the pistons wind back in in opposite directions.

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF and, if equipped with ABS, remove the key to prevent accidental pump activation.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the wheel(s).
4. Disconnect any ABS wires, if equipped.
5. Clean the brake caliper thoroughly and remove the dust caps from the bleeder nipple.
6. Open the bleed nipple and lock the brake pedal the depressed position. Collect the brake fluid spillage in a suitable container.
7. Remove the brake pads and disconnect the brake pipes from the caliper.
8. Remove caliper mounting bolts and lift the caliper off.
9. Drain the remaining brake fluid in the caliper into suitable container.

To install:

1. Clean the caliper mount where the caliper lies.
2. Install the caliper and new mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
3. Connect the brake line to the caliper and tighten to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
4. Grease the brake pad shims with a thin layer of silicon grease. Put the shims on the back of the pads and install them in the caliper.
5. Install one retaining pin, spring then the other retaining pin.
6. Fill the brake master cylinder and bleed the brake system.
7. Connect any ABS wires, unfastened earlier.
8. Install the wheels.
9. Lower the vehicle and check the brake function before driving.

Good luck...

Sounds like air in the hydraulic system.

On each brake cylinder there is a bleed screw with a pipe nipple on it. Buy fresh brake fluid for the specification of the vehicle (Dot3 or Dot4), and an EasyBleed kit. Attatch easybleed pipe to each bleed nipple in turn, and slacken it off 1/2 a turn. -put the other end in a large jam jar.
Once you have undone one bleed nipple, top up brake reservoir to maximum, and pump foot pedal twice - re top up and repeat.
Tighten up bleed nipple, and move on to another untill complete.

If this does not solve the problem, check the rear brakes for automatic adjusters. Sometimes they sieze- or bend.
If defective - reoplace as a kit on both sides. Do not just replace one. All brake work should be completed as axle pairs.

Hope this helps.