1995 jaguar xj6 3.2

Park interlock switch bad

There are 2 cables connected to the starter the one from the battery (the thick one) and the one that feeds 12 volts from the ignition that is the thin one. Probably the one from the ignition is not sending 12 volts to the starter. You can get a test light to verify that or test with a piece of cable connect one end where the thin wire from the starter is connected and the other end briefly touch the positive post on the battery. If it cranks then is the ignition switch not sending 12 volts to the starter. Or get a test light (it looks like a screwdriver with a tip) connect the black wire to any ground and the tip on the connector have someone to crank it up if it lights, is good if not is a bad ignition. Don't know how to do it get an electromechanic. Hope this help

The motor turning over & cranking---- is one in the same

You have a :
NO CRANK or a NO START !!!

You checked fuel pressure at the motor
You checked for spark or injector pulse
The battery is good-you tested it

Now tell use about the loss of ignition output

Where is all that coming from--in detail

Have to crank sensor scoped

Is the ignition switch worn out ?

what you should have in the electronic distributor is an ignition module with a coil outside wired to the distributor. The ignition module creates the pulses needed for the coil to generate extreme high voltage . If that coil is incorrect voltage for the system then it is most probably overheating and failing to work. There are to voltage coils that can be used . One is a straight 12 volt coil that starts and runs on 12 volts and the other is a start on 12 and runs on 7.5 volts with the run circuit going through a resistor or resistor wire . Check out which coil should be in your car and if correct (7.5) check the voltage to the coil with a multimeter and it be should read 7.5 volts when the ignition is in the run position

A test light connected across the coil primary leads should flash on + off when engine cranks(coil sparks when 12v turned OFF due to collapse of magnetic field).If you get pulsed 12 volts,and no spark from the coil,the coil is bad.If you don't get the pulsed 12 volts,trace back to find out why(the PCM turns the coil ground on and off,12 volts comes from switched IGN source)

You are at thhe right trail what controls spark is coil pack crank sensor sparkplugs and plug wire but the most important is power . I mean 12 volt connections and ground This includes checking fuses you need a simple volt meter doesnt have to expensive or fancy just to pick up 12 volts let start with fuses in the engine juction box (there not mark to what it belongs to) make sure none are open. especially fuse 19 and 24 , next go to the crank sensor make sure the tabs are snuggly on now to the coil pack there is a red and light green wire this comes from ignition and feeds 12 volts at the coil pack measure that voltage is it 12 volts if not correct it this is from ignition switch ( you can make a tool that feed 12 volt with a wire and a fuse in series and attatch it to battery and the primary wire this is known as hot wire) next go to the ECM wiggle the wires see if that get a connection going if not go back to the ICM here are the wire you are to measure the tan light green, this is from ECM and it is pulsed it measure 5vlts to 0 volts switched then measure the tan orange the same thing 5 volts to zero,then tan white again 5vlts to zero. any one of these 5 to zero fails you fix is the ecm

You will need a meter or a test light to check the starter. You will have a big wire cable going from the battery to the starter that always has 12 volts positve at it. The smaller wire will have 12 positive when the ignition key is turned to "start." If you have both of these at the starter, your starter is bad.

Given the ease of re-start I would check the ignition switch unscrew the shroud behind the wheel to expose the switch and with a volt meter find the perminant live and the switched ignition, sta rt and joggle the wires and see if you can get it to fail.

when it wont crank, you will need a test lite to ck the small wire at starter for a 12 volt signal when commanded to start by the key. also make sure there is 12 volts from battery going to larger wire on starter. if so and still wont crank, starter replacement is probable. (assuming grounds are clean) they can be very intermittent. another quick test would be while trying to start, holding key in start position, rap lightly on starter with hammer to see if it kicks, if so, replace starter.

check the mass air flow sensor, if this is bad then the ecu wont get a signal and it wont send the right amount of fuel to the cylinders causing a no start condition